On my first trip to Indonesia in 2009 I travelled from Medan to Bali by ferry, bus, train, and plane. Midway through that trip I arrived in Jakarta with a copy of Lonely Planet Indonesia in hand. The Book directed me to Jalan Jaksa – the backpacker street of Jakarta.
I don’t remember where I stayed, but I would have had some places marked out in the LP as a target to walk to. Back in those days you used to just turn up to a street like this and walk around until you found a place.
Having just come from Sumatra where there were hardly any backpackers, it was a welcome sight to see some fellow travellers and swap travel stories.
While it was nowhere near the atmosphere of Khao San Road in Bangkok or Pham Ngu Lau in Saigon, Jalan Jaksa was a notable backpacker street on the so-called banana pancake trail.
Jalan Jaksa was a typical Southeast Asia backpacker street that had everything a pre smartphone-era traveller could need. Alongside the hostels and cheap guesthouses were travel agents, bars, and second-hand bookstores.
[A classic backpacker bookshop on Jalan Jaksa from my visit in 2009.]
I say it was because having returned to Jakarta ten years later, Jalan Jaksa is a shadow of its former self. Many of the travel-related businesses have since closed, and there were hardly any backpackers to be seen.
I went by one of the remaining bars on the street and it looked like it hadn’t been dusted since I was last here. Every time I walked by I was invited for a drink. Ahh, if only they knew. A young James would have at least tried to prop up the bar for a few days.
Here and there I saw some remnants of a bygone era that hinted that at a different era of travel. There are still some travel agents, and this sign advertising overland travel to Komodo seems like a relic of the past.
There are a few hostels hanging in there, and an alley off the street still has some losmen (family guest houses) where you could just turn up and ask for a room.
Despite the boarded-up shops and empty lots, it appears that Jalan Jaksa is going through a metamorphosis rather than a terminal decline.
The surrounding streets are thriving, and Jalan Jaksa still remains as one of the best located areas to stay in Jakarta. It’s a 10 minute walk to Gondangdia Station on the commuter line, and not far from Gambir Station (the long distance railway).
The location will be even more convenient once the metro is extended. Currently it’s about a 20 minute walk to Bundaran HI station on the new North-South metro line. The metro is going to be extended further north to Kota, and there will be a new station within 10 minutes walk at Sarinah. This will be the interchange with the future East-West line and it’s possible that the East-West line will have a stop at Jalan Jaksa.
Behind the dump of a hotel I was staying at, workers were putting the finishing touches on the tower that will house the Park Hyatt Hotel. There’s an Aloft Hotel nearby, and at the end of Jalan Jaksa is the Morrissey Hotel Residences – a 4-star serviced aparthotel that has probably never had a Lonely Planet pass through its doors.
Developers have seen the potential of this area, with new apartment towers being built near where this future metro junction will be.
[Apartment construction workers on Jalan Jaksa.]
Out are the grungy backpacker bars, and in are the third-wave hipster cafes.
Walking up and down Jalan Jaksa everyday got me thinking about where all the backpackers have gone, which is a question asked about Indonesia in general.
I’m aware that Jakarta is not everyone’s favourite city, but it still worthy of a visit. If you are travelling around Indonesia how could you not be curious about the capital city.
Here are some thoughts on why there are less backpackers.
The rise of low cost airlines
At the time of my first visit to Indonesia, AirAsia was less than 3 years old and overland travel was still a prevalent option. Now there are so many cheap direct flights available that long-distance overland travel is less of a consideration.
I lived in London in 1999 and I saw how low cost airlines transformed travel in Europe, connecting seemingly unlikely secondary cities for the first time. This is now happening in Southeast Asia, where you can now fly from previously unconnected provincial cities. For example you can now fly from Padang in West Sumatra to Yogyakarta in Central Java without going through Jakarta.
Changing demographics
I was going to blame the demise of the street on a decline in tourism, but Jakarta has seen an increase in tourism. According to Tourism Indonesia, Jakarta has seen a rise in tourism from China and Saudi Arabia. China is to be expected, as Chinese tourism is lifting numbers everywhere. Saudi Arabia might be more to do with the fact that as Indonesia becomes more prosperous there are now more Hajj flights from Jakarta to Saudi Arabia. With extra capacity between the two countries it would make sense to market Indonesia as a tourism destination in Saudi Arabia.
Nothing lasts forever
Finally, nothing lasts forever. Places change and travel styles evolve, and when you start stacking up decades of travel experience you see these changes over time.
Things that seem so permanent now may not be there in the future. Soi Ngam Dupli used to be the backpacker street in Bangkok before the scene moved to Khao San Road. In its heyday shop owners might have though that they were set for life with a steady stream of backpackers.
And if you want to see how much travel has changed get a copy of Lonely Planet – Across Asia on the Cheap from 1973.
I don’t write this to be that guy who says “you should have been here 10 years ago”. I first experienced that level of travel snobbery when I visited Prague in 2000 when someone said to me “you should have been here 10 years ago”. This is just my observation of how things change over time.
As I write about city development and future metro systems I no doubt will be back when the East-West line is finished, and maybe by then Jalan Jaksa will be unrecognisable from 20 years ago.
For more information, read my guide to Jalan Jaksa and guide on where to stay in Jakarta.
Brought back a lot of memories. Stayed at Jalan Jaksa in 1976 and a few times after that. Eventually lived in Jakarta for 2 years in the the early 2000s. Love the city.
That would have been a site to see Jakarta in the 70’s!
Hi james, i believe the demise of backpackers occurred shortly after the downfall of the suharto regime. In those days everybody got a 60 day tourist visa on arrival. Backpackers would start out at danau toba in sumatra, where there was a big bpacker scene and then work their way down through sumatra and java and end up in bali. Nowadays with only a 30 day visa issued, most backpackers come straight to bali.
Danau toba in particular was a big place on the hippy trail, look at it now. Even yogyakarta’s backpacker scene has diminished greatly.
Hi Noel, good points there. I certainly noticed the demise of backpacking in Toba as I was there on my first trip in 2009. I got there by the old overland way by getting the ferry from Penang to Medan. There was an extraordinary amount of guesthouses there and the place was a ghost town. As for Jakarta in 2009 I guess it felt lively for me compared to Sumatra, but travellers who had been before might have been shocked it was not as busy.
Interesting post, James. Thank you for writing this! I stayed there in early 2000, fresh off a 32-hour cockroach-infested bus ride from Bukittinggi, Sumatra. I was in what would become the middle of an 8-month backpacking journey through Southeast Asia and was probably starting to experience travel fatigue. I did not care for the city at the time, but those pictures brought me back to pleasant memories of splurging at nicer restaurants, going city shopping, and the trip in general. I’d certainly go back and explore Jakarta now as a more seasoned traveler. I’d also consider staying at one of those divey hostels just for good old times’ sake. Long live the Banana Pancake Trail!
Thanks John! I am reluctant to judge a city when I know travel fatigue has set in. I have returned to some places with fresh eyes and had a completely different experience. And I’ve actually thought the same thing about staying in one of those old flophouses for old times sake.
This brought back my own memories, not so much about Jalan Jaksa but Jakarta in general. I worked there in the 90’s for three years towards the end of Suharto era when it was bustling with business and very very expensive but loved it, great place, friendly people who were always turned out smart regardless of how little money they had. So I’m always interested to see what changes are going on so thanks enjoyed your article.
Hi Dave, great to hear. I’m enjoying hearing perspectives of people who lived there.
Hi, I remember Jl. Jaksa since 1994 – lot of “kafe”, bistros, and great night life. Nowadays this beautiful part of Jakarta is slowly dying… Only 2 “kafe” left, beer is extremely expensive, bule nolonger welcome… Quiet islamisation of Indonesia live. What a pity!
I remember Jalan Jaksa in 1996 was so crazy busy very crowded with tourists and cheap beers..20 years later I visited Jalan Jaksa it’s more like Saudi Arabia . People weren’t friendly anymore …I only saw one cafe memories cafe but not any single bule inside not sure where all the bule’s go
Hi Ana, I first visited Jl.Jaksa in 2005 and another 5 times until 2014. I always visited Memories. My late brother had lived in JKT until he died in 2003. A very special place. On my first visit I was amazed by the nightlife. The bars and clubs. Also meeting people who knew my brother was so nice. Over the following years it grew quieter and quieter. I will visit again one day soon though.
Hi, what was your brother’s name?
in the late 90s i stayed at a hotel with with a very old car up front. cant remember the name! by that that time the hotel was already run down. btw: had a great time in jalan jaksa!!
Loved reading this. My friend is currently in Jakarta and I visited in 2002 and got me thinking about Jalan Jaksa where I stayed, when it was thriving street for backpackers and a bit like Khao San Rd. I stayed at a hotel for about £3 a night with brekkie, double bed, shower and air-con and felt in luxury. There were lots of travel agents to book onward travel., bars and a great vibe. Sad how it has changed but that is evolution, things change and move on. Be grateful for the memories. I travelled through Flores, Lombok, Bali, Java and onto Sumatra on the 6-day visa. Loved Indo and not returned since my 2-month trip in 02. Had a great time in Jalan Jaksa
Thanks Justin, I enjoy reading these travel experiences
I was there in 1993 with what had turned out to be my ex-wife. We were return visiting a nomadic TEFL friend who used to turn up at our place in leafy Greenwich, sometimes with expat mates, from time to time.
We stayed it a run down hotel and hung out in a bar down one end of Jala Jaksa. Most expats seemed to be linked “girlfriends” out to step them of any and all assets using outlandish stories.
Couldn’t take the pollution for long and flew off to a swish hotel in Kuta, Bali.
I stayed in Jalan Jaksa in 1987 and 1989. I had my yellow South East Asia on a Shoestring. I remember I stayed at the first place on the left in a dark steaming hot dormitory with about 10 others. Despite the heat I had to cover myself because of the horrendous mosquitoes. The second time was after travelling overland all the way from Timor. Yes the 2 month visa was so important for a decent trip. I love Indonesia and have been back 2002 for 4 weeks in Sulawesi, 2012 Flores and Komodo then with my young children and 2019 4 weeks in Sumatra with my family. I would say the biggest change is the internet and social media. When I was there in the 1980s I turned up and looked for a hotel. There was no internet, no mobile phones. Now you have to try to book online or by email or risk everything booked. The saddest impact of the internet is social media. Even in 2002, travelers met and chatted about their experiences and everybody advised on hotels etc. Now everybody is too busy talking to people at home. I have also noticed the change from the fun of going to a bus station to find the right bus to travellers being herded on traveler buses. Things change but not always for the better
Thanks for your story, Jon. As much as I am grateful for the internet giving me a business, you are right about how it has changed travellers. Meeting travellers was part of the fun of travel. I am glad to be in the generation that straddles the pre-internet and internet era.
The internet has ruined travelling. Pre-internet all information was passed by word of mouth, or gleaned from out of date Lonely Planet guides. The sense of excitement is gone, and for todays travellers it is like a vist to a theme park. Even the Indonesian way of life has been changed due to western commercialisation, and it’s hard to experience how it was 20-30 years, which was really magical.
A friend and I stayed in Jaksa several times in the early ’90 at a place called Nick’s Corner. It was guesthouse, not wanting to be a guesthouse, with a facade like a skyscraper with mirrors, even though there were only 2 or 3 floors. The manager, Ritchy, was always seated behind his desk, wearing black leather pants, a black fishnet t-shirt, dark sun glasses and a pencil stripe moustache. The pimp look. One day he had to be away for a few days and asked us to take care of his business. Soon after we found ourselves checking in and out guests, chatting with cleaners and playing chess with police officers who came over for ‘looking away money’. There was a lot of weed smoking going on at Nick’s.
When Ritchy returned he took us that evening to the Tanamur Discoteque, a surreal place with two floors, packed with tourists, expats, lady-boys, prostitutes and wealthy, middle-aged businessmen.
We had intended to stay in Jakarta for just a couple of days before sailing to Maluku Islands, but ended up staying for three weeks. Jakarta rocked.
Thanks for sharing Cor, that is a Jakarta that no longer exists.
Stayed several times on Jalan Jaksa in the early 90’s.
I remember all the small lanes running of Jalan Jaksa where the chickens roamed free, kids playing and the different sounds of the street sellers who sold their food going round with carts, the small gusthouses and laundry shops. it realy had a kampong feel to it.
Stayed in several different guesthouses over the years in that area.
I will be returning to Jakarta within a few weeks.
The last time I was in Jakarta was in 95 so, I will definately visit JJ again just for a trip down memory lane….
There are still some laundry houses and you might see some chickens in someones back yard, but expect changes otherwise!