The oddly modern Vinh Station, the old apartments from the German Democratic Republic, remnants of the Nghe An Ancient Citadel, Vinh Market and the famous foam coffee, Ho Chi Minh, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, and future Vinh on the high-speed railway.

Vinh is the capital city of Nghe An province in the North Central Coast region of Vietnam. It’s about halfway between Ninh Binh and Phong Nha, and not many visitors stop in between. That alone was enough reason for me to visit.

Vinh is on the North-South Railway, so I booked a train trip from Da Nang to Hanoi, stopping at some less-visited places along the way.

I arrived on a cloudy day after spending a day on the train from Dong Ha. The train was outrunning a tropical storm that hit the central coast area (around Hue and Da Nang), so I was glad to arrive to see that it wasn’t raining.

I mention the weather to forewarn that most of the photos in this article are grey and dull. I had planned to visit the beach of Vinh to see what a resort beach looks like in the North Central Coast region, but I have been to enough beaches on grey days to know that I would be disappointed.

These are the notes of my visit to Vinh in October 2025.

Vinh Train Station

Vinh Station is an unusual design compared to other stations in Vietnam. It has that “built after the war” vibe that can be found in Eastern Europe.

There is a photo of the old station in the waiting room, which hints at what Vinh used to look like before the war.

The grey weather added to the ambience of my initial perception of Vinh. I walked out of the station and was greeted with a wide and straight road.

The wide streets and greyness of it all made me feel like I was in a former Eastern Bloc country, and this was another reason why I was curious to visit Vinh.

The DDR Apartments of Vinh

Vinh is known for the apartment blocks that were built with assistance from the German Democratic Republic in the 1970s.

The apartments are on the main street in the middle of the city, and they are gradually disappearing as modern buildings replace them in these prime locations.

I wrote an article about the apartments at Future Southeast Asia: The last days of the DDR Apartments of Vinh.

Remnants of the Nghe An Ancient Citadel

What would have been the tourism highlight of the city was destroyed during the wars. Vinh had an ancient citadel, and its star-shaped footprint can still be seen on the map.

[Map of old citadel of Vinh.]

There are three gates that are somewhat intact.

[Left Gate of Nghe An Citadel.]

The moat is also intact, though it loses its visual impact without a wall to go with it. The citadel is a residential area with houses along the moat.

This article has an aerial photo of the moat and some old photos.

Vinh Market and the famous foam coffee

As I have mentioned many times before, when you are in an unfamiliar city in Vietnam and don’t know what to do, head for the central market.

The Vinh central market is architecturally nothing to write home about, but little did I know that one of the most intriguing cafes in Vietnam is hidden in the bowels of this building.

I got a message from an English teacher from England who lives in Vinh. He saw my update on LinkedIn, which has unexpectedly become a useful social media platform for Vietnam. He invited me for a coffee inside the market, so we met outside and I followed him through the labyrinthian interior.

Long Ly Cafe is named after the husband and wife team that operate the cafe, and Cafe Bọt (Foam Coffee) is the type of coffee that is served here.

The foam is freshly whipped on demand. As far as I can tell, the foam is coffee-infused whipped cream, though the articles I have read say that the recipe is a secret. Mr Long has been here for over 20 years, and he still makes the coffees. In addition to walk-in customers, there were many delivery drivers coming and going, as well as deliveries to other workers in the market.

What is interesting about this coffee is that it hasn’t spread across the country yet. There are many types of coffee in Vietnam that are associated with cities:

– Ca Phe Sua Da (synonymous with Saigon, and called Ca Phe Saigon in Central Vietnam)
– Coconut Coffee (Da Nang)
– Salt Coffee (Hue)
– Egg Coffee (Hanoi)

Maybe when Mr Long retires he will give up the recipe and foam coffee will become common across Vietnam. It could be known as Long Coffee, or Vinh Coffee to put Vinh on the coffee map.

A foam coffee cost 15,000 VND (0.57 USD).

[Cafe Bọt menu (October 2025).]

Legend has it that Mr Long is the second-most Instagrammed/TikTokked person in Vinh, after Ho Chi Minh.

Ho Chi Minh

Ho Chi Minh was born in a village outside of Vinh in 1890 (his birth name was Nguyen Sinh Cung). While technically not from Vinh, he was from Nghe An province, so there is an appropriate statue in Vinh for the provincial hero.

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai

Someone who was born in Vinh was Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. She was born in 1910 under the name of Nguyen Thi Vinh, and was executed in Saigon by the French in 1941.

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai is one of the 1,375 names in the database of street and public work names. Some names are more prominent than others, and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai is a name I see in almost every city. Maybe I notice this name more because I lived on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai in Ho Chi Minh City for a while. The name is seared onto my brain like where I lived in Melbourne (Barkly St and Mitford St), which are now part of my life history.

The Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Memorial House is on the main street (where the DDR apartments used to be).

There is an altar and some information of her life (Vietnamese only). Here is an article about the life of Comrade Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.

The memorial site has some photos of old Vinh, of which there is no trace of today.

[Avenue Marechal Foch.]

A shame that the old Railway Hotel no longer exists.

[Hotel de la Gare.]

Food in Vinh

Some provinces have their signature dishes, and Nhe An is famous for eel soup (súp lươn Nghệ An).

I like the presentation of the fish at this banh canh ca loc restaurant. The pieces are stacked in a way that everyone gets the same portion.

Apart from the English teacher I met, in the four days I was in Vinh I saw two other guys that looked like English teachers, and two travellers with backpacks. I mention this as I was a curiosity to the diners at the restaurant.

Future Vinh

I keep a list of major developments in cities of Southeast Asia at my Future Cities series. There is not enough happening in Vinh to justify a full post, but the arrival of the Sheraton Hotel indicates a new era for the city.

Next to the Sheraton is Vincom Plaza, and they were both nearly finished when I was there. Not that my boss would let me stay there (it’s me, I’m the boss), but if you want a fancy hotel with a view in Vinh, then use my link to book a room at Sheraton Vinh.

I wasn’t expecting to see much here, so the Sheraton was a surprise. I was more interested in seeing Vinh as it is now (including the remaining DDR apartments) before the high-speed railway is built (if it gets built at all).

Vinh will be one of the 5 main express stations (Hanoi – Vinh – Danang – Nha Trang – Ho Chi Minh City) out of a total of 23 stations. Being one of the express stations will be transformative for the fortunes of Vinh, and maybe it will become a thriving metropolis after the railway is built.

Follow the construction of the railway at my Vietnam High-Speed Railway page.

A good Vinh guide

This Vinh guide is on a personal website of a resident English teacher.

Onward travel

From Vinh, I got the train to Nam Dinh.

The Phnom Penh Airport Express Bus connects the city centre to Techo International Airport. Here are the bus details, including the route and ticketing information.

Airport Express Bus route and stops

The Airport Express Bus has limited stops between the airport and city centre.

[Map of Phnom Penh Airport Express Bus.]

The route map of the Airport Express Bus.

[Airport Express Bus route map.]

The Airport Express Bus on the city map gives a better idea of how far the airport is.

If you are staying in the riverside area, the Canadia Park bus stop is the most useful stop.

[Canadia Park Bus Stop.]

If you are staying in the BKK1 area, the Royal University Of Law And Economic Sciences bus stop is closer.

[Royal University Of Law And Economic Sciences bus stop.]

The final stop is at the Kouch Cannon Roundabout Bus Station (Phnom Penh City Bus Terminal), near the Embassy of France. There are not as many hotels around here, thus the Canadia Park stop will be the most useful (though check the map to see what is most useful for you).

If you are unfamiliar with the city, here is my guide on where to stay in Phnom Penh.

[Airport Express Bus at Kouch Cannon Roundabout Bus Station.]

Going from the city to the airport, the University of Health Sciences bus stop is the most useful stop. This is near the Phnom Penh Railway Station.

[University of Health Sciences bus stop.]

The bus stops have shelters that are clearly marked “Airport Express Bus”.

[R & F City Bus Stop]

Airport Express Bus timetable

The bus runs approximately every hour. A timetable is on the airport website.

[Airport Express Bus timetable from Techo International Airport.]

[Airport Express Bus timetable from Kouch Cannon Roundabout Bus Station.]

Airport Express Bus at Techo International Airport

The bus stop is outside the terminal building at the end of the carpark. There are some signs pointing in the direction of the bus stop.

I had some taxi/tuk-tuk drivers approach me to try and persuade my to get a ride. I said I was getting a bus and one of the drivers said that the bus doesn’t run very often and it is slow. Ignore such taxi touts (which is good advice for any airport).

[A long walk through the airport car park.]

Tickets for the Airport Express Bus

The ticket price is 1,500 KHR (0.37 USD) (as of December 2025). The driver doesn’t handle cash so there is an old-school cash drop-box. This is a problem if you don’t have any change. Luckily I had some small riel notes from my last trip so I was able to pay the exact amount.

There is also Tap and Pay for the local payment system WingPay, but this doesn’t accept international cards. Payment by QR code has become the dominant payment system in Cambodia, so payment by Visa and Mastercard is not as prevalent.

If you are arriving at Techo International Airport without riel, there are ATMs and a bank in the arrival hall. Cambodia uses USD and KHR, and many of the ATMs only dispense 100 USD notes. This is inconvenient when you arrive and you are trying to break the note with a small purchase. I took a $100 note to the bank and they converted it to riel. They gave me 20,000 KHR notes (about $5), which is more manageable, but still not useful for buying a bus ticket. Ask for some small change as well (eg some 1,000 and 500 KHR notes).

[Canadia Bank at Techo International Airport.]

Onboard the Airport Express Bus

The Airport Express Bus is city bus with seats and standing room, not a seat-only coach.

There is also a section for luggage.

Chiang Mai burning season refers to the time of year when the air in Northern Thailand is filled with haze from forest fires and the burning of crop waste. Even though this is a problem across Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai has become the focus of the pollution crisis. The city has made international headlines for being the most polluted city in the world.

The fires are from when farmers burn the stubble in harvested rice fields. There are also fires from slash-and-burn farming, where new agricultural land is cleared from forest and bushland. Fires are also being lit in forests to clear forest litter to harvest mushrooms.

The fires are in Northern Thailand, as well as Laos and Myanmar. Agricultural fires are also a big issue in Central Thailand with sugarcane burning. This is one of the sources of Bangkok’s pollution crisis, and a contributing factor to transboundary haze.

The air pollution has become such a well-known issue that it’s now affecting tourism to the region. In what should be a prosperous time of year for the tourism industry, tourists are now staying away and those that can leave migrate for the burning season.

When is the Chiang Mai burning season?

The burning season typically occurs in the latter half of the dry season from February to April. There is no set dates, and varies in its severity from year-to-year.

The impact of haze on health

One of the most concerning effects of the haze crisis is its impact on public health. The smoke from burning vegetation releases harmful pollutants and particulate matter into the air, leading to respiratory issues and exacerbating pre-existing conditions.

The haze can trigger allergies, respiratory infections, and other health problems, particularly for vulnerable populations such as children and the elderly. Hospitals record an increase of inpatients that are being admitted for breathing difficulties.

Tourism and economy

Chiang Mai’s economy relies heavily on tourism, and the annual haze poses a threat to the future of this vital sector. The dangerous, persistent smog deters tourists from visiting the region, affecting local businesses, hospitality industries, and the livelihoods of those dependent on tourism.

The burning season has become so well known that tourists now know to avoid Chiang Mai in the burning season.

Efforts to address the issue

provincial and national authorities, along with environmental organisations, have been working on reducing the annual haze problem. Initiatives include promoting sustainable farming practices, implementing stricter regulations on burning, and investing in alternative land-clearing methods.

Additionally, public awareness campaigns aim to educate both farmers and the general population about the long-term consequences of open fires.

How to measure air quality

An air quality index (AQI) is an indicator of air pollution shown on a scale from 0 to 500. There are variations in measurement system between different countries, but the following scale is the most used:

0 – 50: Good (Green)
51 – 100 Moderate (Yellow)
101 – 150 Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups (Orange)
151 – 200 Unhealthy (Red)
201 – 300 Very Unhealthy (Purple)
301 and higher Hazardous (Maroon)

Two of the most popular sites that measure air quality are IQAir and the World Air Quality Index project (aqicn.org). They sometimes show different results, depending on site updates and what stations they are getting data from. One might show 120 while the other shows 130. Either way, you know the air is unhealthy. They both give a general idea of the air quality in real time.

[AQI display at Ombra Caffe detecting unhealthy air in Chiang Mai.]

If you are living in Chiang Mai the quickest way to check the air quality is to see how visible Doi Suthep is. On a clear day the green contours of the mountain are visible.

[Doi Suthep as viewed from Huay Kaew Rd and Nimmanhaemin Rd.]

As the days get hazier the mountain becomes a monotoned shape behind the smoke.

[Hazy sunset in Chiang Mai.]

On the worst days the mountain completely disappears from view.

[Doi Suthep shrouded in smoke, as viewed from Huay Kaew Rd and Nimmanhaemin Rd.]

Chiang Mai burning season news

Every year there is much handwringing from local and national politicians with promises to find a solution, yet we read the same headlines every year.

This section is an archive of news about the Chiang Mai burning season over the years. The articles show how some years are more apocalyptic than others, and it includes when announcements have been made to try and addreess the burning issue of the smoky season.

2026

March 27, 2026: Chiang Mai among top 10 most polluted cities in the world

March 4, 2026: Chiang Mai among the top 10 most polluted cities during Thailand’s burning season

2025

Chiang Mai ranks as the most polluted city in the world, authorities declare crisis – [17/03/25]

NASA confirms PM2.5 dust in Northern Thailand is caused by burning – [03/02/25]
“After completing the air quality monitoring and data collection under the ASIA-AQ project in March last year, the Thai team, led by GISTDA and various agencies, has continued its research on the data and contributing factors in collaboration with NASA.”

2024

Chiang Mai’s atmosphere the worlds most polluted today – IQAir – [15/03/24]
“According to the IQAir website, the AQI reading in Chiang Mai is 200, followed by Tashkent in Uzbekistan at 193, 154 in Lahore in Pakistan, 160 in Beijing, 157 in Wuhan, 155 in Yangon, 154 in New Delhi, 154 in Dubai, 153 in Hang Zhou and 151 in Calcutta.”

Flame game foiled: Chiang Mai crackdown scorches forest arsonist – [14/03/24]
“Chiang Mai authorities have taken swift action against forest arson, resulting in the arrest and fining of a perpetrator following a tip-off from a vigilant citizen. Yesterday, March 13, a man was spotted igniting a fire within the protected forest area of Ban Pang Keut, Mae Taeng district in Chiang Mai. The deputy governor personally delivered a cash reward to the informant whose alert led to the apprehension.”

Chiang Mai sets B10,000 reward for reporting forest burners – [10/03/24]

Chiang Mai residents warned to avoid outdoor activities and wear PM2.5 protective gear – [08/03/24]
“Chiang Mai continues to experience forest fires, with 328 hotspots detected throughout Wednesday (March 6) while at 7 p.m., it ranked as the world’s worst air quality, according to the IQAir website.”

Firefighters struggling to contain wildfires in Chiang Mai – [04/03/24]
“…national park officials continued to combat what appeared to be never-ending forest fires in Chiang Mai’s lower districts, blaming local villagers for setting fires because they mistakenly believed they were beneficial to vegetation.”

PM2.5 air quality to worsen in Northern Thailand as 69 wildfires burn in Chiang Mai – [26/02/24]

Huge forest areas destroyed by raging fires in Chiang Mai – [25/02/24]
“Officials blamed torching by local villagers looking for edible foods and spillovers from burning of farm leftovers for the fires.”

Chiang Mai residents win air pollution lawsuit – [22/01/24]
“The Chiang Mai Administrative Court ruled on Friday (19 January) that the Prime Minister and the National Environment Board must complete a management plan to address local air pollution issues in 90 days.”

Chiang Mai governor orders tight measures against burning of farm waste – [10/01/24]
“Chiang Mai governor has instructed chiefs of the province’s 25 districts to intensify measures against the burning of agricultural residue in a bid to reduce PM2.5 pollution.”

2023

PM eyes tourism-crimping haze – [30/11/23]
“Prime Minister and Finance Minister Srettha Thavisin on Wednesday voiced concern over the impact of PM2.5 pollution on Chiang Mai’s tourism industry during the high season and pledged to hold talks with neighbouring countries to combat haze and smog pollution.”

Chiang Mai seeks solution to smog – [07/11/23]
“As the smog season draws nearer, Chiang Mai tourism operators are urging the government to accelerate the passage of the Clean Air Act and implement other mechanisms to reduce pollution from the agricultural sector.”

How Chiang Mai became the world’s most polluted city – [12/04/23]
“Burning fields are blamed for hazardous levels of air pollution in northern Thailand but the government is doing little to act.”

Pollution choking Thailand’s north hits tourism, worries public – [10/04/23]

As hazardous haze envelops Thailand, residents seek refuge – [13/03/23]
“Chiang Mai was rated as the most heavily polluted city in the world, exceeding the likes of Delhi, Lahore and Dhaka on air quality monitor IQAir’s real-time index of 100 major centres around the globe.”

Chiang Mai to hand out face masks as dust from fires hits hazardous levels – [08/03/23]
“Thai authorities struggle to contain forest fires, a persistent cause of air pollution during the dry season.”

It’s pollution season again – [30/01/23]
“Chiang Mai has had five data points report pollution levels at higher than 200 migrograms per cubic metre, with the Mae Chaem data centre reporting numbers as high as 284.”

2022

For fire-ravaged northern Thailand, there’s now an app to battle the blaze – [28/02/22]

‘Burning season’ ignites with 4k fires – [02/02/22]
“More than 4,000 so-called hotspots caused by slash-and-burn activities have been detected across the North as the “burning season” begins.”

2021

New data exposes Thailand’s 2021 “burning season” – [17/05/21]
“For a few months each year, Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s tourist-friendly cultural hotspot, ranks among the world’s most polluted cities. Chiang Mai’s air pollution is largely attributable to agricultural burning rather than fossil-fuel-related combustion experienced in other global cities.”

Feeding the beast: Chiang Mai smoke seen as world’s climate change problem -[22/04/21]
“From Chiang Mai air pollution to global climate change, animal agriculture is the elephant in the room — and biochar one way to tame it.”

Bangkok fiddles whilst Chiang Mai burns – who’s behind the annual smoke season? – [21/03/21]

Holding those behind the haze to account – [21/03/21]
“Chiang Mai spent several days this month as the most polluted city on the planet, with PM2.5 levels reaching 226 microgrammes per cubic meter (μg/m³) there. The predictability of the annual surge in pollution and the lack of effective preventative action have angered city residents and concerned civil society groups.”

[Composite showing Chiang Mai city as seen from Doi Suthep on March 5 and March 10 2021, when the PM2.5 level was 70.9 and 114.4 respectively. (Photo: Gary Boyle).]

Chiang Mai among world’s most polluted cities as forest fires rage in northern Thailand – [11/03/21]
“According to AQI readings by the Pollution Control Department, five northern provinces recorded unhealthy to hazardous levels of air quality on Thursday (Mar 11). These provinces include Mae Hong Son (350), Chiang Mai (248), Chiang Rai (291), Tak (219) and Lamphun (213).”

Air pollution in Chiang Mai sends 30,000 to hospital – [10/03/21]
“Chiang Mai health officials say beyond 31,000 people have sought medical treatment for respiratory issues.”

2020

Chiang Mai smog casts pall over businesses – [03/04/20]
“Thailand’s northern region has been hit with toxic levels of air pollution due to forest fires on Wednesday, especially in the Chiang Mai province, with some areas being engulfed in air quality levels 12 times above safe levels.”

Man charged with burning forest in Chiang Mai – [10/04/20]
“Police arrested a suspected arsonist in Doi Inthanon National Park in Chiang Mai province on Thursday (April 9), as part of a clampdown on forest-burning that has seen air pollution spike in the northern region.”

Air quality in North still ‘critical’ – [30/03/20]
“Air pollution across the upper North remains at critical levels with authorities monitoring almost 400 active hotspots in Chiang Mai alone on Sunday. The air quality did not improve on Monday morning, with IQAir recording “very unhealthy” air quality and hazardous, ultra-fine PM2.5 dust levels at 170.1 microgrammes per cubic metre (μg/m³) at 10.30am in the so-called “Rose of the North”.”

Strict no-burn zone measures to be implemented in North – [06/02/20]
“The Department of Disaster Prevention and Mitigation is coordinating with administration officials in the North and related agencies to ensure law enforcement puts out forest fires and tackles the severe air pollution.”

2019

Thailand’s famed ‘Rose of the North’ is wilting – [23/06/19]
“Ancient Chiang Mai is suffering from over-development and pollution.”

Unhealthy smoke over Thailand – [12/04/19]
“For more than a month, northern Thailand has been experiencing unhealthy, elevated levels of smoke and air pollution. The thick haze is a result of wildfires and prescribed burning by farmers clearing their land for the planting season. Meteorologists expect the unhealthy air quality to last into May.”

[NASA Earth Observatory image shows smoke and haze blanketing portions of southeastern Asia on April 12, 2019,]

On the front line with the Chiang Mai firefighters battling the flames behind the world’s worst air – [06/04/19]

Chiang Mai braces for watered-down Songkran as city chokes in smog – [05/04/19]
“Chiang Mai’s travel trade is bracing for muted Songkran celebrations as the smog crisis is likely to put a dent on visitor arrivals to the northern city and the surrounding provinces for the upcoming Thai New Year.”

Thai leader orders action to fight pollution in Chiang Mai – [04/04/19]

Thai junta chief demands action to cut smog – [02/04/19]

Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai suffer haze and smoke until at least May – [01/04/19]

Chiang Mai residents up in arms over choking smog amid government inaction – [01/04/19]
“Local authorities’ inability to deal with the severe problem – the result of a spreading forest fire – with any sense of promptness has already led to a campaign to remove Chiang Mai Governor Supachai Iamsuwan from office.”

Thailand urged to declare emergency in Chiang Mai as air pollution hits ‘disastrous’ levels – [30/03/19]
“An academic has called on the government to declare a state of emergency in Chiang Mai and most of Thailand’s northern provinces over ‘disastrous’ levels of smog.”

Northern Thailand was once a paradise. Now forest fires have made the air worse than Beijing’s. – [07/03/19]
“In mid-March, the city with the worst air pollution in the world wasn’t an industrial powerhouse populated by millions. It was Chiang Mai, the tourist-friendly cultural center in northern Thailand.”

Chiang Mai tops world pollution charts – [12/03/19]

Chiang Mai air pollution worst in the world – [13/03/19]
“The air quality index (AQI) in Chiang Mai as of 4pm Tuesday stood at 230, compared with 170 in the Bangladesh capital Dhaka and 164 in Kabul, Afghanistan, according to Air Visual, an app that monitors air quality.”

2018

We’re No. 1? Chiang Mai air pollution smashes competitors – [12/04/18]
“The “Rose of the North” won world recognition Wednesday for the dubious distinction of having the worst recorded air quality during peak conditions.”

Explaining Chiang Mai’s smoke pollution with real data – [01/04/18]
“An interview with Craig Houston, an aeronautical engineer and Chiang Mai resident who has been collecting and analysing date related to the pollution crisis.”

Chiang Mai ranked sixth worst for air pollution globally – [18/03/18]
“Air pollution in the North continues to be critical, with small dust particles of 2.5 microns in size (PM2.5) exceeding safe limits at almost every air-quality testing station.”

2017

Chiang Mai has worst small particle pollution in Thailand: Greenpeace – [18/05/17]
“Chiang Mai is Thailand’s most-polluted city in terms of dangerously small pollutants which kill tens of thousands in Thailand annually”.

2016

Thailand: Air quality levels in Chiang Mai reaches unhealthy levels – [19/04/16]
“The air quality in northern Thailand, particularly Chiang Mai, has reached unhealthy levels, with the Air Quality Index (AQI) at the time of publishing registering at 113, which is considered unhealthy for sensitive groups.”

Smog causing health woes for thousands in Chiang Mai – [18/04/16]
“Thousands of people in Chiang Mai have developed symptoms that can be linked to air pollution this month.”

2015

Amid northern haze, a burning desire for wealth – [29/03/15]
“As the seasonal smoke worsens, the forest fires caused by a lucrative mushroom trade and other foragers are only exaggerating the problem.”

Smog shrouds northern Thailand as air pollution hits unhealthy levels – [03/03/15]
“Northern Thailand was shrouded in smog as air pollution hit unhealthy levels in some areas, due to uncontrolled burning and wild fires.”

2014

Transboundary pollution in Northern Thailand causes dangerous levels of smog – [26/03/14]
“Chiang Mai, the largest city in the North and second-largest in the country, announced this year’s first day of “unsafe” air quality on March 11. Levels of PM10 (particulate matter of less than 10 microns) rose above the Thai government’s threshold of 120 micrograms per cubic meter (ug/m3). Neighboring provinces have since reported similarly hazardous measurements. By comparison, PM10 in Bangkok has hovered between 40 and 50 during this same period.”

Chiang Mai air quality health threat – [14/03/14]
“Air quality measurements in Chiang Mai have registered above the ‘healthy’ spectrum for three consecutive days.”

2012

[Stop Burning – April 2012.]

Haze spreads across north: Thailand – [27/02/12]

Links and resources

Causes and solution of forest and agricultural burning in Northern, Thailand [PDF]
International Journal of Agricultural Technology 2022Vol. 18(4):1715-1726

Seasonal Patterns and Trends of Air Pollution in the Upper Northern Thailand from 2004 to 2018
Volume 22, Issue 5, May 2022.

Dong Ha is a city in Quang Tri Province in the North Central Coast region of Vietnam. It was the capital of Quang Tri until Quang Tri was merged with Quang Binh Province in July 2025. Quang Binh lost its name in the merger, but Dong Hoi (the capital of Quang Binh) became the capital of the newly-merged province.

Dong Ha is not a touristy town, though you might pass through here if you are doing a DMZ tour. It was the northernmost city in South Vietnam, and the city was in ruins by the time the war ended. There is not much to see in the city.

My main reason to visit was to see an old train station as part of my Rail Vietnam project. I was also in the process of visiting every provincial capital in Vietnam. My list has been shortened now that the provincial mergers have demoted Dong Ha and other cities as capitals. I haven’t decided what to do with this list, though I will probably still visit the cities that are no longer capitals.

I was here in October 2025, and during my trip Dong Ha was on the edge of a tropical storm that was barrelling towards the coast further south. I wasn’t lashing rain, but it was a persistent sideways drizzle with a wind that destroys umbrellas.

It also didn’t help that the main thoroughfare was being renovated, so the site of grey and wet construction material wasn’t leaving a great first impression.

Despite the rain hampering my exploration hours, I was able to visit the main sites. These are my notes on Dong Ha.

Old Dong Ha Station

I have been through Dong Ha before on the train, and I noticed some military trophies near the railway in the city centre.

This was the location of the old Dong Ha Station. Most of Dong Ha was obliterated during the war, so there isn’t any obvious architectural sign that this was a station. It is marked on Google Maps as the old station, and the site is now a memorial to the war.

Here is my article about old Dong Ha Station.

Central Market

As I have mentioned before, if you are in a new provincial city of Vietnam and don’t know where to start exploring, start with the central market. Dong Ha Market is in a distinctive building that stands out from the surrounding modern buildings.

Another thing to consider when visiting a new province in Vietnam is to see if there are any regional food specialties.

Vietnam is hit-or-miss when it comes to providing useful information on their official tourism portals, so I was surprised to find a useful article about food in Quang Tri on the Quang Tri government tourism website.

With this list I went to the amazing food hall at the market, which is a round building with a covered dome.

It was enjoyable walking around looking at what the vendors had to offer, and everyone was enthusiastically saying hello to me as I was the only foreigner in the market.

I found what I was looking for (Quang Tri jackfruit noodles), but even if I didn’t know what I was looking for I would have been stopped in my tracks by the presentation.

Another lady came over and sold me on the banh loc (cassava cake). I recognised these from the Quang Tri food list, so I bought a plate (well done Quang Tri tourism board, your blog post helped make a sale). The caphe lady then found me, which was an easy sale. Everyone was so nice so it was hard to say no to the other vendors.

I was on my way out and then I met the juice lady. She grabbed my arm in the way that Vietnamese grandmas do that make it impossible to say no.

I ordered an orange juice with no sugar, and she was so incredulous that I didn’t want sugar that she brought the jug of sugar to me in case I changed my mind.

Provincial musuem

Every provincial capital has a provincial museum, and they usually have some war remnants on the property.

I don’t know what will happen to the provincial museums in the demoted capitals, as the Quang Tri capital is now Dong Hoi. For now, there is still a Quang Tri provincial museum in Dong Ha.

[Missile at Quang Tri Museum.]

Le Duan

A giant figure in 20th century Vietnamese history is Le Duan. I mentioned in my notes on Buon Ma Thuot that streets named Le Duan in Vietnam are usually one of the most prominent streets in the city (such as Le Duan in HCMC, which leads to the gates of the Independence Palace).

Le Duan was from Quang Tri, and he became the leader of North Vietnam after Ho Chi Minh died. It was seen as symbolic that someone from the south (just) was the leader of the north.

Fidel Memorial Park

I saw a park on the map named Fidel Memorial Park and I thought, “like Fidel Castro?”

Yes, there is a Fidel Castro Park in Dong Ha, named in honour of Castro for his visit to the liberated region in southern Vietnam in 1973.

Mine Action Visitor Center

Dong Ha is the base for Project RENEW, which is an organisation that is removing unexploded ordnance (UXO) and providing risk education and victim assistance.

Project RENEW has information about their work and the war in Quang Tri at the Mine Action Visitor Center.

The Mine Action Visitor Center is a small museum that has photos and war remnants on display.

This museum is a reminder of why there are no historic old buildings in Dong Ha.

This map shows why they will be still be clearing the land of UXO for decades to come (and here is an online map of U.S bombing strikes on Quang Tri Province).

I was in Dong Ha a few months after the provincial mergers had taken place. It occurred to me while looking at this old DMZ map that the merging of Quang Binh and Quang Tri has erased the old border between north and south.

Quang Tri province is now where north and south was divided, so it seems fitting that this former divide no longer exists on a provincial level.

If you are visiting Quang Tri then visiting the sites of the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) is a must. I had been to Quang Tri province in 2005 when I did a DMZ day trip from Hue. DMZ tours have changed over the last 20 years as it is now more feasible to do a one-way trip from Hue to the DMZ to Dong Hoi, instead of backtracking to Hue. From Dong Hoi you can go to Phong Nha.

I was glad to visit Dong Ha this time as well. I like to visit unassuming provincial cities after I have been somewhere overly touristy (such as Da Nang and Hue), and my experience at the market showed how welcoming the people of Dong Ha are.

The government tourism board describes Quang Tri as the heroic land. The writer of this articles describes Quang Tri’s main tourism specialties:

“What are the specialties of that land? I keep joking, Quang Tri has a specialty called “bomb”, a specialty that few places have as much as Quang Tri.”

Dong Ha to Vinh

From Dong Ha Station I got the train to Vinh. Stay tuned for my notes on Vinh.

Getting the train from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore involves two separate train journeys. Here are the trains to book and how to buy the tickets.

There used to be a direct train service from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore, but that service was discontinued in 2011. The rail corridor in Singapore has been turned into a walking path and nature reserve, so this service is not returning.

It’s still possible to get the train from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore, but it requires booking two separate train tickets. There is a ETS train from Kuala Lumpur to Johor Bahru, and a separate shuttle train from Johor Bahru to Woodlands in Singapore.

Booking tickets

The tickets need to be booked separately as the official rail site doesn’t sell combined tickets. If you search for tickets from Kuala Lumpur to Woodlands the booking site will not show any train tickets.

Also note that the shuttle train sells out in advance as it is booked out by daily commuters. I have booked the KL-JB section only to find that there are no tickets left for the JB-Woodlands section. You can get the shuttle bus from JB if this happens, but the train is a much better way to cross the border.

Tickets can be booked at the official site online.ktmb.com.my and via the online booking agent Baolau. The sections are:

Train 9523: Kuala Lumpur (KL Sentral) – Johor Bahru (JB Sentral) (ETS)

Depart KL Sentral: 7:55
Arrive Kluang: 12:15

Shuttle Tebrau 79: Johor Bahru – Woodlands (Shuttle Tebrau)

Depart JB Sentral: 12:45
Arrive Woodlands: 12:50

KL to Singapore trains

KL Sentral to JB Sentral

KTM began operations of the electric train service (ETS) from KL Sentral to JB Sentral on the 12th of December, 2025. The ETS project was opened in stages, and previously the ETS train only ran from KL to Gemas. Passengers had to change to a diesel-hauled train for the trip from Gemas to JB Sentral.

[ETS at KL Sentral.]

The ETS trains travel at speeds of up to 140 km/h.

Shuttle Tebrau: JB Sentral to Woodlands

The final leg is from JB Sentral to Woodlands via the Shuttle Tebrau.

This is a popular service as it’s a much quicker way to cross the border than using the shuttle bus service. Tickets for the JB Sentral-Woodlands shuttle trains sell out weeks in advance for the peak-hour trips, but you should be ok in getting a ticket in the afternoon.

The immigration process takes about 15 minutes, even if it’s busy. I saw some veteran border crossers that knew what carriage to get on in order to be the first in the immigration queue. I was at the back of the queue, but the line moves fast.

[Free seating assignment on the Shuttle Tebrau.]

Woodlands is not connected to a metro station, so this is still not a smooth travel experience to get from KL to Singapore. The nearest MRT station is Marsiling, which is 1.5 km/22 minutes away (according to Google Maps). You are then looking at another hour of travel time on the MRT to get to Central Singapore.

[James on the Shuttle Tebrau from JB to Woodlands.]

Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by train

Here is how to go from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by train.

Future KL-Singapore train services

Kuala Lumpur – Singapore High-Speed Railway

In addition to the current KL-JB line, a high-speed railway from KL to Singapore is being planned. This will travel on a different alignment and not pass through JB Sentral. This project was cancelled but it is being reconsidered, so it could be years away from being a reality. If it is built then there will be two different ways to travel from KL to Singapore by rail.

More Malaysia and Southeast Asia rail travel

This article is part of the Nomadic Notes train travel series. Read more about Malaysia train travel and Southeast Asia train travel.

There is no direct train service from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, so this guide shows how to make the journey by two different trains.

Getting the train from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur used to be a straightforward affair. The train would leave Tanjong Pagar railway station (near downtown Singapore), clear immigration for both countries at Woodlands, and then continue on the same train to Kuala Lumpur. I did this journey in 2009 and it was a great way to travel overland.

In 2011 the service from Tanjong Pagar was discontinued and the train service then began at Woodlands, near the Singapore-Malaysia border. The railway corridor from Tanjong Pagar to Woodlands has since been turned into a park (the Singapore Rail Corridor) so it’s unlikely that this line will ever be restored.

Then in 2015 the Woodlands-KL service was discontinued, and a shuttle train from Woodlands to Johor Bahru was introduced.

Also in 2015, the ETS (Electric Train Service) began operations from Kuala Lumpur to Gemas (which is about halfway to Johor Bahru). The electric train service was extended Johor Bahru in December 2025, so it now takes two trains to go from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur.

You need to book tickets individually as the train booking sites don’t book multiple sections on one ticket. Here is how to book train tickets from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur.

[The old Johor Bahru Station.]

Tickets to book for Singapore-Kuala Lumpur train

Tickets for each segment need to be booked individually, so it’s best to open a browser tab for each segment to make sure there is a seat available on every segment first before committing to a single ticket.

To do this, go to online.ktmb.com.my and do a search for each leg on separate browsers. You can also book via the online booking agent Baolau.

Train combinations from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur

Shuttle Tebrau 72: Woodlands – Johor Bahru (Shuttle Tebrau)

Depart Woodlands 08:30
Arrive JB Sentral 08:35

The first shuttle train to JB Sentral is not timed to connect to the JB-KL train.

Train 9510: Johor Bahru (JB Sentral) – Kluang (Intercity)

Depart Johor Bahru (JB Sentral) 08:40
Arrive Kuala Lumpur (KL Sentral) 13:00

If you want to get this morning service from JB, then you will need to cross the border by bus.

An alternative itinerary would be to stay in Johor Bahru overnight. That gives you a chance to explore the JB old town and not having to leave Singapore so early.

The second train of the day leaves in the afternoon, so you get the have the morning in Singapore

Shuttle Tebrau – 82
Depart Woodlands 15:00
Arrive JB Sentral 15:05

Platinum – 9532
Depart Johor Bahru (JB Sentral) 16:20
Arrive Kuala Lumpur (KL Sentral) 20:40

There are plans to add more ETS trains, so there should be a better morning connection in the future.

Kuala Lumpur to Singapore

Here is my guide on how to go from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore by train.

Bus from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur

If you’ve read all this and it all sounds too complicated, then book one of the many direct bus services from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur.

Read more about railways in Malaysia and other train travel articles.

Read more about the railways of Southeast Asia.

Buon Ma Thuot is the capital city of Dak Lak Province in the Central Highlands of Vietnam. While Da Lat is the best-known city in the Central Highlands, Buon Ma Thuot is the largest city and is closer to the geographical centre of the Central Highlands region.

I have been to Da Lat many times, mainly because it’s more convenient to get to from Ho Chi Minh City. On my recent trip to Da Lat, I got the bus to Buon Ma Thuot, saving me a longer bus trip (or flying) from HCMC. These are my notes on Buon Ma Thuot from my visit in March 2025.

Buon Ma Thuot city notes

Buon Ma Thuot is also spelled as Ban Me Thuot, and Ban Me is also used as its name. BMT is also an acceptable abbreviation, which I will use from here on in.

What is immediately noticeable about BMT compared to Da Lat is that the city is flatter and there is a street grid in the city centre. Da Lat is surrounded by steep hills, and there are barely any straight roads. BMT is on a plateau, and it’s easy to walk around.

Being in the Central Highlands, I was wondering where the mountains were. It’s a twisty and mountainous road between Da Lat and BMT, but you can’t see any mountains in BMT. I checked a topographic map, and BMT is on a plateau of around 500 metres in elevation.

My visit was just after the 50th anniversary of the Buon Ma Thuot Victory. There were still many posters around the city celebrating this anniversary.

[50th anniversary of Buon Ma Thuot Victory.]

The central roundabout of the city features the Victory Monument, which has become the main landmark of the city.

Every visit to a new city in Vietnam requires a visit to the central market.

The BMT market has a skybridge connecting two buildings.

When in a provincial capital, always check out the provincial museum as they are usually the most architecturally interesting building in the city.

[Dak Lak Museum.]

Note: I was in BMT before the announcement of provincial mergers that happened in July. Dak Lak province was merged with coastal Phu Yen province, and the expanded province is still called Dak Lak with BMT as the capital.

In addition to being walkable, BMT is also very green. There are many tree-lined streets, and the city is also good at pocket parks.

Cities in Vietnam use the same street names of Vietnamese heroes, and streets named Le Duan are usually in the most prestigious locations. The Le Duan Street of BMT has much nicer trees than the Le Duan Street of Ho Chi Minh City.

There is a cathedral near the main roundabout, though it looks more like a parish church.

[Ban Me Thuot Diocese Cathedral.]

There has not been a construction boom like in the coastal cities of Vietnam, so BMT is still a relatively low-rise city. The Saigon Ban Me Hotel is the landmark tall hotel of the city.

[Saigon Ban Me Hotel.]

Coffee

The Central Highlands is a major coffee-growing region, and BMT is the hub of the coffee industry in Vietnam. In a case of poor timing, I arrived in the city just as they were packing up the Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival.

If you are visiting BMT for coffee, there is the Coffee World Museum.

The museum houses antique coffee-making equipment with displays that show the history of coffee.

The museum is built in highland-style houses.

Next to the museum is a new urban area called The Coffee City. The project was under construction when I visited, though some sections looked abandoned.

Coffee World Museum was built by Trung Nguyen Legend Group, who were founded in BMT and are now headquartered in HCMC. Trung Nguyen Legend Group are the largest domestic coffee brand in Vietnam, though Highlands Coffee are listed as the largest by number of stores in Vietnam.

Trung Nguyen was on the cusp of cafe domination in Vietnam in the 2010s until a messy public divorce between the founders. The cafe chain rebranded around this time. When I came to HCMC in 2012, Trung Nguyen had the best cafe logo.

[Trung Nguyen Coffee logo in HCMC (2012).]

The new logo is not as distinctive and the branding has gone with notable European coffee-drinkers (such as Beethoven) and imagery of successful people flying in private jets and a G7-brand instant coffee.

On my last visit to Singapore was in a random mall and I saw a Trung Nguyen cafe with the original logo. The wife of the original partnership set up Trung Nguyen International in Singapore using the original logo.

[Trung Nguyen Coffee in Singapore.]

If I were in charge of the Trung Nguyen branding, I would drop the weird obsession with the G7 and famous Europeans and lean into their highland heritage. Have an image of a highland house with the steep roof (like at the museum), and celebrate Vietnamese culture.

I rarely visit Trung Nguyen cafes, mainly because I don’t like the iced tea they serve with coffee. Most iced tea in Vietnam is weak and almost flavourless, while the Trung Nguyen iced tea has a strong flavour (possibly barley tea), and I don’t like the taste of it.

Considering that I was in the origin city of Trung Nguyen, I visited the flagship cafe (Trung Nguyen Coffee Village). Having just said that I don’t go to Trung Nguyen cafes, this cafe was a delight to visit. The village is more like a large garden area with water features and plenty of places for photo opportunities.

I had an iced coffee and tried the iced tea to see if it still tastes weird (it still tastes weird).

In addition to visiting the coffee king of Vietnam, I was curious to see what the cafe scene in general was like in BMT. I visited Dak Lac Coffee purely because it has a cool name. Dak Lak is such a great name for a province, and it would be very brandable as a chain.

The coffee lived up to its good name.

I visited Soul Specialty Coffee, who show on Google Maps as Soul Fine Robusta BMT.

There is a new wave of Vietnamese cafes that are celebrating the robusta coffee that is grown in Vietnam. For too long, the arabica cabal has been badmouthing robusta, so cafes like Soul are promoting Vietnamese robusta.

And there are of course Highlands Coffee cafes in BMT, though the cafe chain was started by a Vietnamese American in Hanoi, and not the Highlands.

Food

For food, one local specialty I was looking for was banh uot. A friend from Dak Lak introduced me to a banh uot restaurant in Saigon, so I had to try it in Dak Lak.

[Bánh Ướt Chồng Dĩa Bà The BMT]

Banh uot (translated as wet cake) is a sticky rice sheet that is used to roll around fillings. The sheet is wet and sticky, so it is brought out on a stack of plates. You then roll your own rolls with meat, vegetable, and herb fillings. The sticky nature of the sheet makes it easier to roll, and at the end of the meal, they count how many plates you used.

When it comes to finding food in new cities in Vietnam, I will see if there is a local specialty (like banh uot), and also walk around and see what is popular. I saw this place called Banh Canh Ca Dam Huong (fish cake noodle soup).

There were many people here, and they had extra seats outside, so that was a good sign.

One of my travel rules is not to eat fish so far inland, but I made an exception here for fish cake. The soup had a delicious broth that I can’t describe (which is why I am not a food blogger), and I noticed it got a bad review on Google because they only offer spoons. I looked around, and everyone was eating the noodles with two spoons and no chopsticks.

Vietnam has been slowly globalising, with chains such as Starbucks and McDonald’s finding their way into more provincial cities. The Central Highlands has few global chains so far. BMT has Jollibee from the Philippines (which partly owns Highlands Coffee), Lotteria from Korea, KFC (which was one of the early fast food arrivals in Vietnam), and Pizza Hut. Starbucks are opening in more provincial locations (including Da Lat), but there are no international cafe chains here.

Elephants of Buon Ma Thuot

Elephants are an icon of highland culture, and they are used in imagery around the city (thus the elephant mascot for the coffee festival).

One of the most clever logos I have seen is for the Tay Nguyen Hotel (Tay Nguyen being the name for the Central Highlands in Vietnamese).

[Tay Nguyen Hotel logo.]

One of the best hotels in Buon Ma Thuot is Elephants Hotel.

Another cafe I visited was Ama H’Rin Coffee House. There are some highland houses on display here with wooden carvings, such as this elephant. I didn’t get to explore highland culture outside the city, so I haven’t covered that in this article.

Riding elephants is still prominent in Vietnam, even while other elephant sanctuaries in the region are going “no ride”. The Vietnam tourism website is promoting the first ride-free elephant sanctuary in Vietnam near BMT, though there was still elephant riding at the coffee festival.

Further reading: Buôn Ma Thuột’s thriving elephant culture in 1957.

Transport

BMT is a good place to start if you are visiting other cities by bus in the Central Highlands.

I got the bus to BMT and then took a flight to Da Nang. Most of the flights from BMV are to SGN and HAN, with only a few other domestic locations. There was talk of upgrading the airport to international standards, though every city wants to become international.

There are no trains in the Central Highlands (apart from the fragment of an old railway in Da Lat). There is a long-term plan to build a Central Highlands railway, which would effectively be an inland version of the train from HCMC to Da Nang. I made a map that shows what a Central Highlands railway system would look like if all of the proposed railways were built.

[View full size map of Central Highlands Railways.]

This guide on where to stay in Hat Yai lists interesting and best-rated hotels in the best area to stay for visitors.

Hat Yai is the largest city in southern Thailand, near the Malaysian border. This inland city is overlooked by foreign visitors who visit the south for the islands, but it’s worth a stop if you are passing through.

Most international visitors are from Malaysia who descend on the city en masse on the weekend and holiday periods, so you will have more competition for hotel rooms if you are visiting then.

What I like about Hat Yai is that the train station is in the city centre, so you can walk from the station to your hotel. The station is known as Hat Yai Junction, and the city feels like a place that is built for travellers.

The station is also used as a pickup point for minivans that go to the ports for ferries to the islands. If you are staying near the station then it’s easy to get your onward transport to the islands. No need to mess around with bus stations at the edge of the city.

Hat Yai is famous for the dim sum restaurants, and Kai-Tod Decha serves Hat Yai-style fried chicken. It’s worth a pit stop here to eat your way around the city.

[Stay in Hat Yai to wake up for dim sum breakfast.]

This Where To Stay Guide lists the best area to stay in Hat Yai with some notable places to stay.

Map of Hat Yai hotels

Hotels mentioned in this article are pinned on this map.

[View map of Hat Yai hotels.]

Best area to stay in Hat Yai

The best area to stay in Hat Yai is in the city centre between the railway line and the Toei River (Mae Nam Toei) to the east. Staying further east of Rajyindee Rd (the large North-South Road) puts you too far from the action for a short-term stay.

A good aspect about the city area is that it has a gridded street layout, so it feels more like a city and is easy to explore. You can see on the map how there is more activity in the gridded area (the light orange background represents an “area of interest”). Beyond this area, the streets become unplanned and harder to walk around.

Hostels

Lamoon Hostel is a 7-minute walk from the train station.

Budget hotels

Get GuestHouse 2 (Sangsri 4) is one of the top-rated guesthouses in the city.

Indra Hotel Hatyai (2-star) is opposite the Odean Shopping Mall, which I would say is the most central intersection of the city. It’s an old hotel that remains popular for its location.

Sakura Hotel (2-star) is a big hotel in the city area but away from the main market area. These budget hotels in Hat Yai are showing their age, but they are kept in good condition.

Siam Mansion (2-star) is a stylish budget hotel that has dorm beds and private rooms.

Mid-range hotels

Hoshi Hotel Hatyai (3-star) is a Japanese-style hotel offering a ryokan-inspired experience. The hotel is on Pracharom Alley, which is showing signs of evolving into the hipster street of Hat Yai with cafes and bars.

The Lantern Hatyai Hotel (3.5-star) is a boutique-style hotel.

Sakol Hotel (3-star) is a small modern hotel close to the Odean intersection.

Lee Gardens Plaza Hotel (3.5-star) is one of the big landmark hotels in the city centre near the night market.

V.L. Hatyai Hotel (3.5-star).

Centara Hotel Hat Yai (4-star) represents the only brand-name hotel in the city. Centara Hotels & Resorts is a hotel group that was founded in Thailand in 1983, and has since spread to other destinations in Asia.

Urbanli Hatyai Hotel (4-star) opened in 2025, and its modern design is a refreshing addition to the collection of older buildings in the city.

Note that Hat Yai is a provincial city, so there are no 5-star hotels or international hotel brands. The Holiday Inn Express Hat Yai is expected to open in 2027, which will make it the first international hotel in Hat Yai.

Here are my notes on Hat Yai from a previous trip.

Transport

Hat Yai Airport has good domestic connections and limited international flights (such as AirAsia to KL). I have flown from Chiang Mai to Hat Yai (the longest domestic flight in Thailand) and then gone overland to Malaysia after staying in Hat Yai.

There are overnight trains from Bangkok, and minivans to the coast are timed to meet the trains.

Check Bangkok to Hat Yai trains.

I have also taken the train from Hat Yai to Sungai Kolok on the border, and then crossed into Malaysia to get the Jungle Railway.

There are some travel agents in front of the station that book onward travel to the islands. I visited Ko Lipe via Hat Yai, and I booked a van and boat combo ticket in advance.

There is a hotel at the station (The Train Hotel Hatyai) but the city is so close that don’t need to stay here unless you specifically want to stay at a train station.

Hat Yai is near the Padang Besar border crossing. Getting the train from Hat Yai to Penang is a much more enjoyable experience than getting a minivan.

Introducing my latest travel website, Rail Vietnam. This guide covers every train line in Vietnam, station information, and how to buy tickets.

About Rail Vietnam

I write about train travel in Vietnam here at Nomadic Notes, but I figured it would be better to have a dedicated site to post more detailed information.

A Vietnam rail site is the ideal subject for a niche site. It’s a topic I am very familiar with, and it is a small niche that won’t require too much time once it is set up. I also found a great domain (railvietnam.com) that is easy to brand.

The official website is not the most user-friendly experience, and there are many Vietnamese travel agent websites that try to look like the official website. My site is clear that it is an independent guide.

I will be publishing guides for the passenger lines, and I am open to accepting trip reports from other writers. I may also publish destination guides for every place with a train station if I decide to expand the site.

Future railways

While there is not a great variety of train lines in Vietnam, there are many new lines that are planned for the future. Some of the future lines include:

– The North-South High-Speed Railway (replacing the current North-South Railway)
– Lao Cai-Hanoi-Hai Phong Railway (replacing the current Lao Cai-Hanoi, Hanoi-Hai Phong lines)
– Hanoi-Ha Long Railway (possibly high-speed replacing the defunct line)
– Hanoi-Dong Dang Railway (upgrading current line that runs to Nanning in China)
– Ho Chi Minh City-Can Tho-Ca Mau Railway
– Central Highlands Railway

Some possible new international lines include:

– Vientiane-Vung Ang
– Hai Phong-Ha Long-Mong Cai (connecting to Dongxing in China)
– Ho Chi Minh City-Phnom Penh

I write about future rail development at Future Southeast Asia, which covers construction and development issues. Rail Vietnam will cover the new railways from the perspective of future travellers. The average traveller doesn’t need to know about a steel plant that is being built to manufacture rail tracks, so Rail Vietnam will cover topics such as stations and tickets.

These news lines are years away from being a reality, but you will find out about them on Rail Vietnam when they are ready.

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I’m not setting up a newsletter for this site, but you can subscribe to blog posts by email (look for the subscribe by email box in the right column). I may start a newsletter if the site evolves into something else, in which case you will be notified about a newsletter if you subscribe by email.

[Somewhere between Da Nang and Hue.]

Luang Prabang is one of the most charming cities in Southeast Asia and a highlight for any visit to Laos. Calling it a city seems a bit of a stretch as it feels more like a big country town. And within the UNESCO World Heritage protected zone, some parts feel like it hasn’t changed for a hundred years.

This Where To Stay guides shows the best areas to stay in Luang Prabang for visitors.

Where to stay in Luang Prabang guide

Map of Luang Prabang hotels
Best areas to stay in Luang Prabang
Old Town (The historic UNESCO World Heritage area)
Mekong Riverfront (Mekong views with in proximity to old town)
Nam Khan Riverfront (Smaller riverfront area with budget options)
Other places to stay (Resorts outside the city)
How to get to Luang Prabang

Map of Luang Prabang hotels

Hotels mentioned in this article are pinned on this map.

[View map of Luang Prabang hotels.]

Best areas to stay in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is on a peninsula with no through access, so traffic has been naturally controlled. The old town area is very compact, and you can walk anywhere in the town. No matter where you stay you will be able to see everything easily enough.

If you are just looking for the best area to stay, then stay in the old town area as shown on this map.

Search hotels in Luang Prabang.

Beyond the old town, there are a some other areas in Luang Prabang that to consider when picking the best area to stay in Luang Prabang.

Here is the breakdown of the main areas of Luang Prabang.

Old Town

The old town is the highlight of Luang Prabang and the most obvious starting point. This can be defined as the area within the Luang Prabang peninsula, which is bounded by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. This is within the UNESCO World Heritage zone, and there is an abundance of historic villas, mansions, and commercial buildings that have been converted for tourist purposes. The most historic vats (temples) are in this area, and it’s where you can see the monks lining up for the morning alms.

Given its world heritage status, most of the accommodation here is in the boutique end, though there are some budget options. The budget guesthouses are slightly more expensive than in the other areas, so look outside if you are choosing by price.

Namsok Guesthouse is a budget guesthouse example in this area where you are mainly paying for the location.

Oui’s Guesthouse is a homely guesthouse on the Nam Khan riverfront near the tip of the peninsula.

Mekong Riverview Hotel is in a heritage property facing the Mekong River, not far from where the Nam Khan River meets the Mekong. Check the room type when you are booking if want a view of the Mekong.

[Mekong Riverview.]

Villa Santi Hotel is a boutique hotel in a renovated royal mansion. It’s set in a lush tropical garden in the back streets of the old town.

[Villa Santi.]

AVANI+ Luang Prabang is a 5-star resort hotel on the main road, opposite the tourism centre. It’s a big property, yet unassuming for its location.

[AVANI+ Luang Prabang.]

Mekong Riverfront

Between Phothisalath Rd (the main road) and Khem Khong (the Mekong road) there are numerous little roads that are lined with budget guesthouses and home stays. When I first visited Luang Prabang I just walked around here until I found a place. You can still do that if you want to travel old-school, but these days it’s easier to book in advance as many of them are online.

Chao Fa Ngum Road (pictured here) is a typical guesthouse street, with Phashoke Guesthouse being an example of a guesthouse not bookable online.

[Phashoke Guesthouse on Chao Fa Ngum Road.]

While there are plenty of guesthouses, it still feels residential and not overly touristy. Most of the tourist restaurants and cafes are on the riverfront. There are many ramshackle restaurants overlooking the Mekong River, making it an ideal place to sit and have a drink.

The cheapest rooms are usually a simple private room with shared bathroom. If you are just backpacking around Southeast Asia saving every dollar then these are a good option if you want a private room for a change.

I stayed at Soutikone1 Guesthouse and Villa Philaylack, which are typical guesthouse experiences.

The Mekong Sunset Guesthouse is a basic budget guesthouse that is right on the riverfront. There are dorm beds and private rooms available, and some rooms have a balcony facing the river.

[Mekong Sunset Guesthouse.]

My Lao Home Hotel is a midrange hotel set in a UNESCO-protected property, and is close to such sites as the night market, the Royal Palace, and Phousi Mountain.

[My Lao Home Hotel.]

A bit further down the riverfront is the Relaxful Hotel Luang Prabang. This 5-star hotel faces the Mekong, and the hotel has a shuttle service to the old town area.

Nam Khan Riverfront

Another budget guesthouse area is around the Nam Khan river. This area has more of a backpacker vibe to it, with bars and western food cafes alongside hostels and cheap hotels. It’s no Khao San Rd or Pub Street though, so don’t worry if you aren’t into noisy streets. Like the Mekong guesthouse area, it’s easily walkable to all the sights. Unlike the Mekong side, there is no riverfront road here, so there are only a few actual riverfront properties.

Y Not Laos Hostel is one of the popular hostels in the area that offers cheap dormitory accommodation.

Villa Namkhan River is a small 3-star hotel in a villa featuring seven rooms.

[Villa Namkhan River.]

Merry Riverside Hotel offers hotel rooms with riverfront views.

Other places to stay

Outside of these areas I would only recommend staying if you have your own transport (such as if you were travelling around Laos by motorbike), or if you want to stay in one of the luxury resorts.

While the AVANI is close to town, most of the luxury resort hotels are further out and not walkable to the old town. They usually offer shuttle services in this case.

The La Residence Phou Vao, A Belmond Hotel is a luxurious resort outside the city centre, on a hill overlooking the town. Being outside the historic area affords it more space, with the hotel feeling more like a private estate.

[Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao – Image via Agoda.]

The Grand Luang Prabang, Affiliated by Meliá is downstream of old town and has room with Mekong views.

Outside of the city boundary, Pullman Luang Prabang opened in 2019 on a property of 16 hectares of landscaped gardens.

How to get to Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang has an international airport with connections cities in Southeast Asia and China.

The Laos-China Railway opened in 2021, and there are now services to Kunming as of 2023. Here is my review of the Laos-China Railway.