The bamboo railways in Battambang: Comparing the original and new bamboo trains

A guide for the original bamboo railway in Battambang and the new bamboo tourist train in Banon.

The bamboo railway in Battambang is a lightweight trolley (known as a norry) that was originally used to transport goods and passengers along the old railway. This makeshift trolley railway served a functional purpose when there was no rail service. The railway became a popular tourist attraction, and trolley rides were set up specifically for tourists.

I visited the railway in 2016 after hearing that the bamboo railway would be closed down once the line was rehabilitated. I wrote a review of the bamboo railway before the line was rebuilt, which explains some of the history of the line.

The plan was to move the norry railway to a new site once the Northern Line reopened. This didn’t make sense to me at the time, because why would they build a railway specifically for joyriding on bamboo trolleys?

The Northern Line has since been renovated and there is now a passenger train between Phnom Penh and Battambang, but the original bamboo railway continues to operate. There is also a new bamboo railway at another site.

I visited both of the bamboo railways, and here is what to expect.

Map of the two bamboo railways in Battambang Province

Map of the old and new bamboo railway locations in Battambang.

[Map of bamboo railways in Battambang Province.]

The original Battambang Bamboo Railway

The original bamboo railway operates on a section of railway about 5 km from the city centre of Battambang. You can use Grab to get a tuk-tuk there, or arrange a tuk-tuk via your hotel.

It costs $10 to take a trolley by yourself, or you can wait for other people and pay $5 for a shared trolley. I didn’t have to wait long for some other people to arrive, so I shared a trolley ride.

The norries are a simple set up, with a bamboo platform on a steel frame, and a little engine that is easily removed.

My first trip on the bamboo railway was in the dry season, so it was hot and dusty. I was here at the start of the dry season, so the countryside was still lush and green.

The most noticeable change since my last visit was the new tracks. The line has been rebuilt with new sleepers and track ballast, and the tracks are visibly straight.

Here is what the track looked like in 2016.

[Section of railway near Battambang before it was renovated.]

This is now a live track, but there is only one passenger train per day that arrives in the afternoon. There are also freight trains, so I’m not sure if they are forewarned of freight train schedules, or if they just pay attention to what is ahead of them.

The trolleys stop at a tourist shop next to rice fields.

You are invited to look in the shop while the trolleys are repositioned.

Most of the tourists seemed to be foreigners. I shared a trolley with a British couple, and on the other trolleys there was a Singaporean couple and some Americans.

Banon Bamboo Train

The Banon Bamboo Train is the new Battambang bamboo railway, though it’s not in Battambang City and it’s not really a railway. The Banon Bamboo Train is an amusement ride in a leisure park. The park is next to Wat Banan, 21 km from Battambang City.

The “train” at Banon Bamboo Train is how you get to the main area of the park. Tickets cost 17,000 KHR ($4.25 USD) for locals and $7.25 USD for foreigners.

There is a queue for the trolleys that resembles a queue for a rollercoaster ride.

I was by myself, so they put me on my own trolley.

The trolleys are operated similar to the original trolleys, with a driver at the back running the engine. These trolleys have seats though.

I was surprised with how busy it was. We passed several full trolleys on the way to the park, and everyone waved and yelled out hello as we passed.

The track length is about 3 km, and it ends at a terminal at the leisure garden.

The station at the end has a turntable for the trolleys, so no need to disassemble the trolleys for the return journey.

The park entrance has a shopping area with some random Marvel characters.

The garden is a nice place to walk around, and there are plenty of selfie props scattered throughout.

I enjoyed the weird and wonderful animal statues in the gardens.

I was the only foreigner there, and it seemed more like a place where locals go for a fun lunch trip on the weekend.

An unintended benefit of this excursion was I got to visit Wat Banan. When I was negotiating with the tuktuk driver my itinerary, I pointed to the Banon Bamboo Train on the map. He took me to Wat Banan instead, probably because that is what most foreigners visit.

Wat Banan has some interesting ruins on top of an incredibly steep hilltop.

Which bamboo railway to visit

The bamboo railway that runs on the actual railway is the one of most interest to foreigners.

While the Banon Bamboo Train is not for my taste, I don’t mind it as a concept. I like that the Banon train pays homage to the bamboo railway without replicating it. The park was filled with locals who were having a day out with friends in a pleasant environment.

When the original bamboo railway was supposed to shut down, I thought that was a good thing. Like Hanoi Train Street, the bamboo railway feels like foreigners celebrating dilapidated infrastructure. As I said in my original review, I would prefer to see a functioning passenger train that runs between Battambang and Phnom Penh.

Read more about railways in Cambodia and train travel in Southeast Asia.