Nomadic Notes

Laos-China Railway travel guide – A guide to the Laos-China Railway from Vientiane to Boten, including tickets, train types, station guides, onboard amenities, and transport to stations.

How to buy tickets for the Laos-China Railway

Vientiane Khamsavath Railway Station Guide

Udon Thani to Vientiane by train

Malaysia

Malaysia railways

Kuala Lumpur to Singapore by train

Kuala Lumpur to Butterworth (Penang) with the ETS

Jungle Railway – The best train times and most scenic sections.

Gemas to JB Sentral: The last diesel Intercity service on Malaysia’s West Coast

Johor Bahru to Singapore by train: KTM Shuttle Tebrau

Kuala Lumpur Railway Station: A guide to the most beautiful station in Southeast Asia

Padang Besar Station: crossing the Malaysia-Thailand border by train

Myanmar

Railway operator: Ministry of Rail Transportation

Philippines

Railway Operator: Philippine National Railways

Philippines Train Travel Guide

Riding the remnants of the Philippines South Main Line

Singapore

Singapore train travel articles

Singapore Rail Corridor: The former railway line that’s now a walking path

How to get from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by train

Thailand

Railway Operator: State Railway of Thailand
Buy Thailand train tickets 12go

Thailand train travel articles

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal; A guide to the main train station of Bangkok.

Train No. 275: Bangkok to Ban Klong Luk Border (train to the Thailand-Cambodia border)

Train 7 Bangkok to Chiang Mai: The day train through historic Thailand.

Train 261: Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) to Hua Hin by Ordinary Train

Bangkok to Pattaya by train

Getting the train in the troubled deep south of Thailand – A review of the train from Hat Yai to Sungai Kolok, through the provinces of Thailand which have travel advisories to not travel to.

Bangkok to Trang by train, and onward connections to the Trang Islands

Bang Sue Grand Station construction update – The future central station of Bangkok

Bangkok to Chiang Mai by train – Best train times to see some of the highlights of Thailand.

How to get from Bangkok to Vientiane by train

Kanchanaburi to Hua Hin by train (with a bonus stop at the tallest stupa in the world)

The train that will transform Nakhon Ratchasima – A report on my visit Nakhon Ratchasima, where a high-speed train will connect to Bangkok, and eventually to the Laos border.

Maeklong market train

Vietnam

Railway Operator: Vietnam Railways
Buy Vietnam train tickets Baolau.

Travel Guide: Rail Vietnam is an independent guide to train travel in Vietnam. (This is my Vietnam train travel site.)

Vietnam train travel articles

Vietnam Railways – A guide to every line, tickets, and FAQs.

Hanoi to Nanning by train

Train SE22 from Saigon to Danang

Da Nang to Hue by train via the Hai Van Pass

Hue-Da Nang “Connecting Central Heritage” train (on my other site, Rail Vietnam)

Da Lat – Trai Mat Railway – A restored heritage railway in Vietnam

Hanoi Train Street Guide: Where to visit the open sections.

Hanoi to Haiphong by train

Nha Trang to Saigon by train

Saigon to Phan Thiet by train – the easy way to get to Mui Ne

Special Train to the Gia Lam Train Factory (Hanoi Creative Design Festival 2023)

Southeast Asia train travel resources

Any questions related to travel by train in Southeast Asia please visit the Southeast Asia Railways Facebook group.

Get a monthly summary of Southeast Asia rail travel news at southeastasiarailways.com.

Southeast Asia train travel FAQs

Is there a Southeast Asia Train Pass?

Southeast Asia is a long way from being developed enough to offer a railway pass that would be similar to the Eurail Pass in Europe. The railway network of Southeast Asia is not extensive enough to warrant such a ticket, and there are very few international connections.

Can I travel from India to Myanmar by train?

Even though the two countries are neighbours there is no rail link yet. There are plans to build a line from Impal in India to Tamu in Myanmar. This would provide an eventual connection from Delhi to Yangon.

Are there any international train services in Southeast Asia?

There are currently three international services:

Bangkok (thailand) – Padang Besar (Malaysia)
Nong Khai (Thailand) – Thanaleng (Laos)
Johor Bahru (Malaysia – Woodlands (Singapore)

Future Southeast Asia railways

One of my projects at Nomadic Notes has been to map the proposed railways of Southeast Asia. To illustrate what is planned for the region I’ve created a map of current and proposed railways in Southeast Asia.

[Click here for larger downloadable image.]

The black lines on the map represent railways that are currently operating, while the red lines are proposed lines.

This map is based on my previous project which depicted Southeast Asia railways as a subway-style map.

[Click here for larger image.]

This map has details of all the proposed railways which are listed here:
Future Southeast Asia – A map of proposed railways in Southeast Asia.

I also write about future railways of Southeast Asia at futuresoutheastasia.com.

[nomadicnotes.com is an affiliate with Tiket, Baolau, and 12Go Asia.]

Train 261: Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) to Hua Hin by Ordinary Train

James Clark — Thu, 06 Jul 2023 11:40:34 +0000

Bangkok to Hua Hin on Train 261 Ordinary Train service

The train from Bangkok to Hua Hin is an easy way to get to this beach city near Bangkok. Even though the main train station of Bangkok has moved to Bang Sue, it’s still possible to get a train from the old Bangkok Station (Hua Lamphong).

This article is a review of Train 261 that from Hua Lamphong to Hua Hin.

[Hua Lamphong / Bangkok Station.]

Hua Lamphong is officially known as Bangkok Station, though you can call it both. If you are arriving by taxi then make sure they take you to Hua Lamphong and not the new station at Bang Sue.

Most train services have moved from Hua Lamphong to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, but there are some service that still run here.

Train 261 departs Bangkok at 9.20 and there are no reserved seats, so you just buy a ticket on the morning of departure. You can confirm it is operating on the official website at railway.co.th/Station/StationList.

Ordinary Trains are the cheapest trains in Thailand. The ticket cost 44 THB ($1.25 USD) as of 2023.

I arrived early to get a ticket, and then had a coffee at Black Canyon Coffee overlooking the main hallway.

You can board the train about 30 minutes before departure, and for unreserved seats I prefer to arrive early to secure a seat.

The seats are padded bench seats, and there is no A/C. The carriages have fans and the windows are left open unless it is raining. This is a nice change of pace to travel on a train with open windows and to have an unobstructed view. I have seen photos of the carriages that have wooden bench seats, but the train I was on didn’t have wooden seats.

The train stops at Bang Sue Junction, which is opposite the behemoth Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (the new main station of Bangkok).

[Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal.]

Train 261 stops at smaller stations, so it’s slower than the express train. The train also stops at passing loops while waiting for opposing trains to pass. This will soon be a thing of the past when the double tracking project is complete.

The train has toilets of the squat and seated variety.

There is no restaurant section, though there are many food and drink vendors that board the train during the trip.

I have taken the bus and minivan to Hua Hin numerous times, and the road is a big highway through urban blight. I didn’t realise that the province of Petchaburi was so scenic.

I appreciated having the open windows to get a clear view.

The train is scheduled to arrive at Hua Hin at 13.35, though expect delays. The station is near the city centre, so it is walkable to the best areas to stay in Hua Hin.

[Train 261 arrived at Hua Hin.]

There a new station being built next to Hua Hin Station, and an elevated line is being built in Hua Hin along with the double tracking project.

Overall this was an enjoyable way to get to Hua Hin. Even though the minivan is a faster option, this is a far more relaxing way to arrive. I think the morning express train is better as you arrive at lunch time, but this is a good way to go if you can’t get an express ticket.

The return leg is Train 262, departing Hua Hin at 14.10 and arriving in Bangkok at 19.00.

If you are new to Hua Hin, then read my trip report for Hua Hin.

Read train travel is part of a series of train travel in Southeast Asia.

Malaysia railways

James Clark — Sat, 28 Jan 2023 11:27:43 +0000

Malaysia train tickets

Official website: KTM – Malaysia national railways.

Railway Operator (Sabah): railway.sabah.gov.my.

Ticket agent: Baolau.

Malaysia train travel articles

Kuala Lumpur to Singapore by train

How to go from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by train

Kuala Lumpur to Butterworth (Penang) with the ETS

Jungle Railway – The best train times and most scenic sections.

Gemas to JB Sentral: The last diesel Intercity service on Malaysia’s West Coast

Johor Bahru to Singapore by train: KTM Shuttle Tebrau

Kuala Lumpur Railway Station: A guide to the most beautiful station in Southeast Asia

Padang Besar Station: crossing the Malaysia-Thailand border by train

International train services in Southeast Asia

Future trains

East Coast Rail Link

Vietnam Railways – A guide to every line, tickets, and FAQs

James Clark — Thu, 05 Jan 2023 07:49:39 +0000

This guide lists all of the current railways in Vietnam, how to buy tickets, and other frequently asked questions.

Getting the train in Vietnam is the classic way to see the country. The long North-South Railway that travels along the coast is often listed among the best train routes in the world. While the train system is old and slow, it beats taking the bus, and you will see more than flying from point to point.

Vietnam Railways

I have been writing about Vietnam train travel for many years at Nomadic Notes, and I now have a dedicated side at Rail Vietnam.

Maps of Vietnam railway lines
Tickets
Vietnam railway lines
North–South Railway (Hanoi-Saigon Railway)
– Saigon-Phan Thiet (Train for Mui Ne beach resort area)
– Saigon- Quy Nhon (Train to the up-and-coming city by the sea)
Hanoi-Lao Cai Railway (Overnight train to Sapa)
Hanoi-Haiphong Railway (Visit historic Haiphong)
Hanoi-Dong Dang Railway (Train to Nanning, China)
Hanoi-Ha Long Railway (Under renovation)
Da Lat–Trại Mát Railway (Restored segment of Da Lat Railway)
Special trains
The Vietage (Luxury train from Danang to Quy Nhon)
Frequently asked questions

Maps of Vietnam railway lines

Railway lines in Vietnam are listed on this Google Map.

[View map of Vietnam railways.]

View more Vietnam Railways maps.

Where to buy tickets

[Ticket office at Hue]

Tickets can be bought at the station, though tickets sell out (especially for sleeper beds) so it’s better to book online.

The official website at vr.com.vn redirects ticket sales to dsvn.vn.

Official booking agents (for a more user-friendly booking experience):

– Baolau

– 12Go

[Nomadic Notes is an affiliate partner with Baolau and 12Go.]

Vietnam railway lines

Vietnam’s long and skinny land has one main line running north to south, with a few other lines radiating from Hanoi.

North–South Railway

The North-South Railway (also known as the Reunification Express) is the main railway of Vietnam that connects Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. it’s also called the Hanoi-Saigon railway (the station in Ho Chi Minh City is still named Ga Sai Gon).

[Buy tickets for the North–South Railway: Baolau | 12Go.]

The most popular stops for tourists along the way are:

– Ha Noi
– Ninh Binh (for Trang An Landscape Complex)
– Dong Hoi (for Phong Nha)
– Hue
– The Hai Van Pass
– Da Nang (for Hoi An)
– Dieu Tri (for Quy Nhon)
– Nha Trang
– Binh Thuan (for Phan Thiet)
– Sai Gon

Train reviews
Nha Trang to Saigon

SE22 from Saigon to Danang

Hue-Da Nang “Connecting Central Heritage” train (on my other site, Rail Vietnam)

Saigon-Phan Thiet

Phan Thiet Station is on a spur line off the North-South Railway. Phan Thiet is the closest beach that can be reached by train from Ho Chi Minh City. The Saigon-Phan Thiet train is a daily service that is tailored for Saigonese looking for a beach break. An extra service runs during holiday periods. Most foreigners refer to Phan Thiet as Mui Ne, which is the beach area neighbouring Phan Thiet.

The train travels along the North-South route to Binh Thuan, and from there it branches off to Phan Thiet. This branch line is about 10 km and it arrives at a station on the city outskirts. There is a public bus to the city or the Mui Ne beaches, or just get one of the taxis/order a Grab to the beach area.

If you can’t get a ticket for this train the other option is to get one of the North-South trains to Binh Thuan, and then get a taxi from there.

Here is my review of the trip from Saigon to Phan Thiet by train.

[Buy tickets for Saigon-Phan Thiet: Baolau | 12Go.]

Saigon – Quy Nhon

[Quy Nhon Station]

Quy Nhon also has a station that is served by a spur line off the North-South Railway. Trains from Saigon to Quy Nhon operate during public holidays.

If the Quy Nhon train isn’t running or if the tickets have sold out, the alternative is the get the train to Dieu Tri and then get a taxi to Quy Nhon (about 10 km away).

[Buy tickets for Saigon-Quy Nhon: Baolau | 12Go.]

Hanoi-Lao Cai Railway

The Hanoi-Lao Cai Railway is an overnight service that runs to Lao Cai on the Vietnam-China border. Lao Cai is the closest station to the popular mountain resort town of Sapa.

Buy tickets for Hanoi-Lao Cai: Baolau | 12Go.

Hanoi-Haiphong Railway

[Haiphong Station.]

The Hanoi-Haiphong Railway is the most useful railway of all the Northern lines. Trains run throughout the day and the trip takes about 3 hours. Here is my review of the Hanoi-Haiphong train.

Haiphong is a historic port city that makes for a good side trip from Hanoi. It’s a working port city, but there are enough historical buildings to make it an interesting place. The fact that it’s not on the main North-South lines means that it gets fewer visitors than the other cities starting with the letter “H” in Vietnam.

Book tickets for Hanoi to Hai Phong by train.

Another reason to visit Haiphong is to travel to Cat Ba Island. You could travel through Halong Bay and return to Hanoi via Halong City.

Book tickets for Hai Phong to Cat Ba by ferry..

Hanoi-Dong Dang Railway

[Nam Ninh (Nanning) – Ha Noi train]

The Hanoi-Dong Dang Railway is the line that forms part of the Hanoi-Nanning Railway service. This is the only international railway service that operates in Vietnam.

Here is my review of the Hanoi to Nanning train.

Hanoi-Ha Long Railway

The train from Hanoi to Ha Long City is not operating at the moment. The line has been under rehabilitation for years but has been mired in delays. When the line was running it would take over 7 hours to cover 190 km, so it was truly in need of an upgrade.

Da Lat–Trại Mát Railway

[Seats in the Da Lat–Trại Mát Railway.]

Da Lat–Trại Mát Railway is an 8 km section of railway that has been restored from the former Da Lat–Thap Cham railway. The train is primarily a tourist service for visitors to Da Lat.

Tickets for the railways can be bought on the day of travel at Da Lat Station.

Read more about the Da Lat – Trai Mat Railway.

Special trains

The Vietage

The Vietage is a luxury train service that operates between Da Nang and Quy Nhon.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a train to Hoi An?
There is no train to Hoi An. The nearest station is Da Nang, which is about 30 km away.

Is the Hanoi Train Street open?
Hanoi Train Street can be visited on south section. The Old Quarter section is currently closed.

Where is the most scenic section of the North-South Railway?
The railway between Danang and Hue is the most scenic section of the railway. The line travels around the Hai Van Pass, offering scenic views of the coast as it travels through a forested area.

Is there a high-speed railway in Vietnam?
There is a plan to build a North–South Express Railway which will replace the current railway, but that hasn’t been approved yet.

Can you take a motorbike on the train?
Vietnam is a motorbike country, so if you are mixing your travel styles here is how to travel on the train with your bike.
Motorbike on the train: Saigon to Phan Thiet

Europe Rail News – The new newsletter for train travel in Europe

James Clark — Mon, 31 May 2021 08:57:26 +0000

Introducing my latest project: Europe Rail News – the newsletter for train travel in Europe. The newsletter includes new routes, service updates, train travel tips, ticket deals, and features on European destinations by railway.

Why start a Europe rail news site?

Nomadic Notes is my online home to write about travel and digital nomad life. Regular readers would know that I run some other sites, some anonymously, and some with my name attached. Most recently I’ve been writing on transport in Southeast Asia, and last year I launched a newsletter.

I’m currently subscribed to the major railway news sites to look for information about new railways in Southeast Asia. Most of the articles though are about railways in Europe. Seeing that I am already getting this information, I figured I should publish an email newsletter that presents the most useful information for passengers.

[Brno Station, Czech Republic.]

I’ve always had a fascination for the railways of Europe, and one of my most memorable travel adventures was that time I visited 57 cities in 31 days with a Eurail Pass. I also have a neglected Europe rail site that is in need of serious updating, which I will get round to fixing up.

While working on the Future Southeast Asia newsletter (and the newsletter for Nomadic Notes), I’ve grown to enjoy curating the best news articles for each subject.

Since I’ve been publishing these newsletters, I realised that I can become an expert in the subject by finding the best articles every week, rather than spending a full workweek writing new content my own site.

What to expect at Europe Rail News

[Let Europe Rail News be your Centraal Station for Europen rail news.]

The mission for Europe Rail News is to present informative and inspirational articles about train travel in Europe. It will filter out industry news so that only news of interest for passengers is presented (such as new railway lines or services).

It will also include train travel tips and features on European destinations by railway. Sometimes the best rail travel article is written by a random travel blog, so this newsletter will find the best articles as they are published. I have already refined my industry news sources, and over time I will fine-tune my web searches to include destinations.

Trains go practically everywhere in Europe, so even with a lifetime of Euro wandering, you will never run out of places to visit. I plan to highlight articles about lesser-known destinations that can be reached by rail.

[Train at Hallstatt, Austria (you can’t fly here).]

I will also feature travel deals on train tickets from the national railways, and sales on Eurail passes and Interrail when they are available.

Obviously, in this pandemic era, we can’t all travel at the moment, and rail travel schedules aren’t back to normal. Consider a subscription to Europe Rail News as a dose of virtual travel until we can travel safely again. And if you love to travel by train in Europe then I hope that this newsletter will provide inspiration for future trips.

Subscribe to Europe Rail News at europerail.net/newsletter/, and read more articles about train travel.

[The editor, James Clark, in need of a new Eurail trip to update his profile photo.]

Da Lat – Trai Mat Railway – A restored heritage railway in Vietnam

James Clark — Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:47:25 +0000

The Da Lat – Trai Mat Railway is a restored section of the former Da Lat–Thap Cham railway. The original railway connected Da Lat to the main North-South railway of Vietnam.

Da Lat became a popular place to escape the tropical heat and enjoy the cool mountain air. Like the hill stations of India, a railway was built to bring passengers to the mountains. The old railway was built by French colonialists and ran from 1932 to 1968.

There have been half-hearted talks to restore the original railway. That is unlikely to happen, but you can at least get a taste of the old railway by riding on a 7 km restored section in Da Lat.

Da Lat Railway Station

Da Lat station is 2 km from the central market and takes about 25 minutes to walk there. A visit to the station is worth it for the building alone. The station was built in 1938 and has elements of Art Deco and highland architectural styles. It was recognised as a national relic in 2001, and it was recently restored.

I read that there was an entrance fee for the station if you weren’t going on the train, but I didn’t see anyone selling tickets. There is a souvenir shop and cafe inside the station if you want to have a look around.

On the platform, there is an old steam engine and carriages.

There are also some Instagrammable art installations around the property.

The restored section of the railway is on a flat section so it doesn’t require using cogs. There is a piece of cog rail at the station that shows what it used to look like.

Some more carriages were being renovated when I visited.

Timetable and prices

At the time of my visit, there were six scheduled trains per day. This is only during peak times though, so check before you go. I was here during the pandemic so there were no international tourists here. As the timetable mentions, they will wait until there are at least 20 passengers before sending a train. I arrived hoping to get the 7:45 train, but the first train didn’t go until just after 10 am. I with time to kill I went for a walk in the surrounding hills.

I had a friend who visited a few months before, and trains weren’t running during the week. I booked my trip to make sure I was there on the weekend.

There are different prices for each carriage. At the time of my visit, the VIP carriage was the only option. A return ticket for VIP 2 was 135,000 VND ($5.85 USD).

The train

The train uses a diesel engine, and not a steam locomotive like the original service. If you want a steam train experience, then keep a lookout for the proposed Hue – Da Nang tourist service.

VIP1 and VIP 2 are in the same carriage.

VIP 2 are the bench seats along the side.

I got on first to get some carriage photos. Eventually, there were 20 passengers, so just enough to start the service.

The second carriage with wooden seats wasn’t used on this day.

The journey from Da Lat to Trai Mat

The train slowly trundles through the suburbs of Da Lat. Some of the houses are close to the track, but so far there is no train street like in Hanoi.

Outside of the residential area, the scenery is rows of greenhouses. The Da Lat climate is ideal for fruit and vegetables that are hard to grow in the tropical heat.

The trip takes 30 minutes and there are no other stops along the way.

Trai Mat is part of the city of Da Lat, so it is more of a suburb than another town.

Linh Phuoc Pagoda

At Trai Mat, there is an interesting pagoda to visit before going back. From Trai Mat station walk back in the direction of the train along the main road. After about five minutes you will get to the entrance for the Linh Phuoc Pagoda.

On the day I went we only had 40 minutes before the train returned, and there wasn’t a guarantee that there was another train running that day. Ultimately I think 2 hours would have been a good time. I would have liked to spend more time at the temple, and there is a Cao Dai temple nearby if you are looking for something else to see.

Even without the train ride, the Linh Phuoc Pagoda was a highlight of things I saw in Da Lat. Couple that with the beautiful Da Lat station, this train ride makes for a good excursion in Da Lat. Read more about my trip to Da Lat.

And who knows, maybe Dat Lat station will be busier in the future if proposed developments happen. A city monorail and railway to neighbouring Gia Nghĩa province have also been proposed, which would be connected to Da Lat Station.

Where to stay in Da Lat

While Dalat Station is beautiful, the surrounding area is boring for a visitor and you are better off staying near the central market. Read my guide on where to stay in Da Lat.

Palembang to Bandar Lampung by train – riding the coal-subsidised railway of South Sumatra

James Clark — Thu, 07 Nov 2019 09:40:17 +0000

Sumatra is the sixth-largest island in the world with a population of over 50 million people, yet there are only a few railway lines on the island. There are plans to unite the current lines to form a trans-Sumatran railway that would travel from Medan to Bandar Lampung.

This is a distance of over 1750 kilometres, so building such a railway will need to be done in stages. The good news is that a section of this future trans-island railway is now operating in South Sumatra between Palembang and Bandar Lampung.

As part of my Future Southeast Asia Railways series I’ve been following new railway developments across the region. Indonesia has published some ambitious proposals to build railways on their biggest islands, though many of the new lines will primarily be for mining.

In the case of the South Sumatra railway, Palembang and Bandar Lampung are two major coal ports, and the railway has been built to extract coal from one of the biggest coal mining regions in the world. The passenger service runs between the two southern provinces of South Sumatra and Lampung on the railways that coal mining built.

Here is my review of the train from Palembang and Bandar Lampung.

Booking tickets for the Palembang – Bandar Lampung train

I was on a tight schedule so I didn’t want to risk not getting a ticket on my day of travel. There are two trains a day that travel this route. There is an overnight sleeper train, but I wanted to see the countryside so I went for the day train.

Tickets can be booked online at KAI, or via Traveloka, which is easier to use than the railway website. When making a booking the stations to search are Kertapati for Palembang, and Tanjung Karang for Bandar Lampung.

Book Palembang-Bandar Lampung train tickets.

The ticket was on sale a month in advance, and when I booked the price was 39,500 IDR ($2.80 USD) for the 9 hours 45-minute journey. I thought it must have been a mistake, or maybe I was converting the currency wrong. But no, this was the actual price.

It turns out that the passenger railway service is subsidised by the government, and as I was to later see, this railway is primarily built for the hauling of coal.

Kertapati Station (Palembang)

[Kertapati Station.]

I started my trip in Palembang, which is worthy of exploration before taking the train. The station at Palembang is named Kertapati, and it’s in the suburbs across two rivers from the city centre. If they ever get round to building a trans-Sumatran railway I don’t know how they will extend this railway, as it ends at a river junction in a built-up area.

[Model of Kertapati station at the river junction.]

The station is at a river junction because it’s next to a port. Coal that is transported to the station is then offloaded onto river barges to be taken to the seaport.

[Coal port at Kertapati station.]

There is a light rail line in Palembang, though it doesn’t go anywhere near the station so I got a Grab taxi. You need to check-in at the station so allow some time for that.

Bring your own supplies before you arrive as there are only a few snack shops at the station and nothing nearby.

The gates are open about 30 minutes before the train departs so you will have time for photos.

Onboard Experience

The destination is Tanjung Karang (the station name for Bandar Lampung), 387 KM from Kertapati.

The Rajabasa service departs at 8:30 and arrives at 18:15.

When I reserved my ticket the online booking site showed the seats in a 3×2 configuration. One of the reasons I like rail travel is that there isn’t usually a middle seat. There are 3×2 seats in Japan, but the seats are wide enough and there is enough legroom so you can get out with minimal annoyance to your seatmates.

[Seat map for Rajabasa service.]

I was dismayed to see that not only were the seats bench-style, but they are also facing each other. The train was full, so there was no chance of having a spare seat next to me.

Being a bench seat the back doesn’t recline, and the seats are so close to each other that it’s a knee-to-knee experience with your fellow travellers.

On the plus side, the seats were padded, and the carriages were air-conditioned at a comfortably cool level.

There are snack vendors onboard who go through selling drinks and snacks. I also went up to see the dining carriage. Here you can get instant noodles and coffee, and its also a good opportunity to have a break from sitting in the seats.

A vendor comes through selling lunch packs, so I got one of those.

A nasi goreng (fried rice) pack is 25,000 IDR ($1.80 USD), and an instant coffee is 11,000 IDR ($0.80 USD).

Good to see that snakes are banned.

There are toilets onboard, but unlike Malaysian Railways with its option of sitting or squatting toilets here there is only squat toilets. It was in terrible shape by the end of the trip.

The train stops along the way at stations of varying sizes. Some stops were long enough for passengers to get off for a smoke break.

At Kotabumi station we passed the only other passenger train that operates on this route. The Way Umpu service is a commuter train that runs between Kotabumi and Bandar Lampung.

To my surprise, the train arrived at Tanjung Karang five minutes early, and by then I had enough of sitting on that bench seat.

From the station, I got a bemo (minibus) to my hotel for 5,000 IDR (0.35 USD).

Scenery on the coal railway of South Sumatra

When the name Sumatra is mentioned one might think of tropical jungles, volcanos, and Sumatran tigers. The reality on the ground though is much different (at least in South Sumatra), where you’re more likely to see endless rows of palm oil plantations.

That’s not to say that there aren’t jungles and mountain streams to see, but you are better off going there by another means rather than expecting to have that as the scenery on this particular route.

There are sections that offer glimpses of jungle rivers and wild forests.

For the most part, it is agricultural land. Where there once was jungle there is now land being prepared for more palm oil plantations. The journey reminded me of the Jungle Railway in Malaysia, where the jungle is being eaten away at either end by plantations.

I was in a sour mood about palm oil on this trip as Palembang had been engulfed in haze from forest fires. Every year more forest land in Sumatra is burned to clear land for plantations, and the resulting smoke wafts over to Malaysia and Singapore.

While the palm oil plantations are everywhere, it’s the coal mining in Indonesia that has built this railway.

The railways of South Sumatra have been laid to haul coal out of the mining areas to the two main ports near Bandar Lampung and Palembang. The railway is double-tracked for most of the way, avoiding delays by being stuck at a passing loop.

I didn’t keep track of how many freight trains we passed during the day, but it would have been at least one every half an hour. That would make it about 20 trains over the 10-hour journey.

That seemed like an excessive amount of trains, so I looked it up later. It turns out that Indonesia is the world’s largest exporter of thermal coal used in power stations, with China and India being the largest customers.

With so much coal being transported on this railway you can see how they are able to offer tickets for $2.80 on a 10 hour rail trip.

South Sumatra Railway Map

As you can see on the map, the railway line doesn’t travel in a straight line between the two cities. From Palembang the railway heads towards the mines in the middle of the island before heading south to Bandar Lampung. This was built for coal, not passengers.

Other services between Palembang and Bandar Lampung

I wanted to get on this train to see the scenery of South Sumatra. Knowing what I know now if you got the overnight sleeper train you wouldn’t be missing out on much. The overnight train would work well if you are on an overland adventure across Indonesia.

The sleeper train was parked at the station before we left so I had a look. The seated section had individual seats facing the same direction. It would have been a much more enjoyable trip if the day train had these seats as well. The commuter train that we passed also had comfortable seats, so I would hope they upgrade the seats in the future.

Future Indonesian Railways

I’m following the development of the trans-Sumatran railway, along with other new lines in Indonesia. There is a railway under construction in South Sulawesi from Makassar, and that was meant to be finished in 2020. I will visit it when it opens.

Another proposal is for railways in Kalimantan in Borneo. This would be similar to the South Sumatra railway, which it is built for coal mining with a few passenger services running on it.

For more rail stories check out the complete guide to train travel in Southeast Asia.

Laos Railways: a guide to train travel in Laos

James Clark — Tue, 22 Oct 2019 07:31:34 +0000

A guide for the railways of Laos, including domestic and international railway, and planned railways in the future.

Laos Railways

Laos railways maps
Domestic railways
Vientiane-Boten
International railways
Vientiane-Kunming
Vientiane-Bangkok
Vientiane-Nong Khai
Discontinued railways
Thanaleng-Nong Khai
Future railways
Bangkok-Vientiane High-Speed Railway
Vientiane-Vung Ang

Laos railways maps

Map of Laos Railway

Map of Lao-China Railway – by HoboMaps.com

Domestic railways

Vientiane-Boten

[Train at Muang Xai.]

The Boten-Vientiane Railway (referred to as the Laos-China Railway) opened on 2 December 2021, making it the first passenger railway within Laos.

There is an extra Vientiane-Luang Prabang service to cater for demand.

Laos-China Railway travel guide – A guide to the Laos-China Railway from Vientiane to Boten, including tickets, train types, station guides, onboard amenities, and transport to stations.

Tickets are complicated to buy for foreigners. Here is my guide on how to buy tickets for the Laos-China Railway.

Tickets: Buy Vientiane-Boten train tickets.

International railways

Vientiane-Kunming

Vientiane – Kunming train services began on 13 April 2023. There is one service a day in each direction.

Train D888 departs Vientiane at 8:08 and arrives in Kunming South at 19:38 (1 hour ahead in China).
Train D887 departs Kunming South at 8:08 and arrives in Vientiane at 17:38 (1 hour behind China time).

Tickets: Buy Vientiane-Kunming train tickets.

Vientiane-Bangkok

The Vientiane-Bangkok service is an overnight train in each direction. There is a shuttle train between Vientiane Khamsavath Station and Nong Khai Station, and passengers then transfer to a sleeper train from Nong Khai to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal in Bangkok.

Tickets: Buy Bangkok-Vientiane train tickets.

Vientiane-Nong Khai

The Vientiane-Nong Khai service operates once a day in each direction.

This was previously the Vientiane-Udon Thani service, but the service was shortened in May 2025 due to lack of demand.

Here is my review of the Udon Thani to Vientiane train service.

Discontinued railways

Thanaleng-Nong Khai

[Thanaleng Station.]

The Nong Khai – Thanaleng railway is an extension of the Northeast Line from Bangkok to Nong Khai. This 4km railway crosses the Mekong River via the First Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.

There was a railway service operated by the State Railway of Thailand from Nong Khai to Thanaleng. This was timed with the overnight service from Bangkok to Nong Khai, and back again.

This service was discontinued when the line was extended to Vientiane Khamsavath Station.

Future railways

Bangkok-Vientiane High-Speed Railway

Thailand is building a high-speed railway from Bangkok to Nong Khai, which will be extended to Vientiane.

Vientiane-Vung Ang

The Vientiane to Vung Ang Railway is a proposed railway to connect landlocked Laos to the seaport at Vung Ang in Vietnam. This will be for freight trains, and there will also be passengers trains. My guess is that there will be a Hanoi to Vientiane service as a symbolic bond between the two countries.

Red more about the proposed Vientiane-Vung Ang Railway.

This train travel guide is part of the Southeast Asia railways guide.

Hong Kong West Kowloon – The railway station of the Hong Kong – Beijing high-speed railway

James Clark — Tue, 18 Dec 2018 08:50:51 +0000

The Hong Kong West Kowloon Station is the terminus of the Beijing–Guangzhou–Shenzhen–Hong Kong high-speed railway. With the opening of the station in September 2018, it’s now possible to travel from Hong Kong to Beijing in one train trip.

Construction began in 2011, which is about the same time that I became a regular visitor to Hong Kong. I’m here once or twice a year, and if I have a flight going through Hong Kong I like to make a stopover. I’ve been watching the progress of this project over the years, so when it was finally opened I had to have a look.

I call my trips to East Asia “infrastructure holidays”, as I marvel at how grand the projects are here compared to Southeast Asia and Australia. I certainly had infrastructure envy walking around this beautiful station.

The bright white space and white beams reminded me of Calatrava’s Liège-Guillemins train station, though the beam styles are completely different.

I was just a casual visitor so I didn’t get to see the area beyond the ticketed area. You can see the waiting area below, where the underground platforms are. The station has been designed to allow light to reach the lowest levels, and it gives the terminal a great sense of space.

This new railway will transform travel to Shenzhen and Guangzhou. I visited Shenzhen from Hong Kong in 2017, and it took 3 metro rides to get to the border. You can now travel non-stop from Hong Kong to Shenzhen in 19 minutes.

There is a short-haul and long-haul section, so Shenzhen and Guangzhou commuters can be more efficiently moved. In the long-haul department, there are train services to Shanghai and Kunming among other places.

And of course, there is a train to Beijing. The train departs Hong Kong at 8.05 and arrives in Beijing at 17.01. At 9 hours of travel time, I would fly to Beijing if I needed to go directly there. While there will be demand for this trip, it’s more useful for the stops along the way. And ultimately this route is a political statement that Hong Kong is now firmly connected to the capital.

I was surprised with how user-friendly the station is, with everything in clearly-written English and prices clearly marked.

One of the most impressive things about the station is its location. Usually new high-speed stations are built further outside the city. For example, the Bang Sue central station in Bangkok is being built in the northern suburbs of the city. In Hong Kong the station is close to the harbourfront in Kowloon. You are one stop away from the financial district of Central, and you can walk to the harbourfront area of Tsim Sha Tsui. It helps that the station is part of the reclaimed land of Kowloon West and that they spent billions to build a tunnel to get there.

The station also doubles as a public park. This enormous building doesn’t just take up a prime piece of real estate, but it becomes part of it. Most of the station is underground, and the protruding section is the feature of the park. There is a walkway on the roof with greenery built into it.

From the rooftop you have a commanding view of the Hong Kong Island skyline. The construction between the station and the harbour is part of the West Kowloon Cultural District. I wouldn’t be surprised if this lookout area becomes an Instagram hotspot once the word gets out.

The station has not been without controversy. Apart from the cost overruns and construction delays, there was concern that a quarter of the station is under mainland jurisdiction.

Outside I noticed the Chinese and Hong Kong flags flying side-by-side. It was conspicuous as you rarely see a Chinese flag flying in Hong Kong (even though Hong Kong is China). It wasn’t until I was straight on looking at the flags that I noticed that the Chinese flagpole is just a little bit bigger.

I travelled around China by train in 2010, and now I might be ready for another trip originating from Hong Kong. I want to travel from Hong Kong to Hanoi by train, so I would break that up into stages. I would stop at Guangzhou for the Canton Fair, and then Nanning (where the Hanoi train departs). I’m told it’s easier to get a Chinese visa in Hong Kong, which would be welcome after being unable to get a Chinese visa in Saigon.

I would have liked to have taken the train somewhere on this trip, but I had another big Hong Kong infrastructure project to visit (the world’s longest bridge).

Byron Bay Train – The world’s first solar-power train

James Clark — Tue, 04 Dec 2018 07:03:50 +0000

Byron Bay is one of the most visited regional towns in Australia, receiving over 1.5 million visitors annually. It became famous for its surfer and hippy culture in the 60’s, but they long ago got priced out when cashed-up Sydney-siders and Hollywood stars moved in. It still retains an alternative vibe though, with eco-friendly shops and organic farmers markets all over town. With this environmentally-friendly outlook firmly planted in the towns psyche, it’s not surprising that Byron Bay is home to the world’s first solar-powered train.

Bryon Bay is in northern New South Wales, near the NSW-QLD border. Byron Bay used to be on the Murwillumbah railway line, which branched off from the Sydney-Brisbane rail corridor at Casino. Like most other regional branch lines in Australia, the line was eventually closed down.

There have been calls for the railway to be restored, and other groups have proposed a walking path (a popular solution to disbanded railways around the world). In Byron Bay a short section of the railway has been resurrected by the Byron Bay Railroad Company, who run the world’s first solar-power train.

The railway runs from Byron Beach to North Beach on a three-kilometre section of the former Casino-Murwillimbah line. While it’s not useful as a method of commuting, it has proved to be a popular tourist attraction.

The service uses two refurbished railway carriages from the 1940’s when seats were more like lounge chairs.

And the climate control was with ceiling fans and gas heaters.

If you’re staying in Byron Bay, get the train from Byron Beach station to North Beach station. At North Beach there’s a cool neighbourhood that has formed by artists priced out of the town centre. There are artists warehouses and cafes, and it’s been likened as the Brooklyn of Byron.

I was staying out of town with a friend, so we did the reverse. We parked at North Beach and got the train into town. This is a good way to go into Byron as it saves you looking for a park in the busy town centre.

My friend I went with has a 5-year old son, and little boys are the magical key for opening the door to the train drivers cabin. The antique mechanical controls have a dieselpunk aesthetic compared to modern computer-driven trains.

Riding the train got me thinking about the future of railways in Australia. There has been a decades-long debate about whether to build a high-speed train along the east coast. Even at it’s fastest though it would still struggle to compete with flying.

Most Australian railways are diesel-engine trains, with only the city metro services being on electric. Perhaps the solution would be to rebuild the railway tracks for faster travel, but not electrify the railway. Instead just run electric battery engine trains. If they could be solar-powered in the future then great, but for now electric battery trains would be ideal. You could have charging stations at major stops, and pre-charged batteries can be swapped out at stations. There have already been advancements in electric railway technology, and it would save the need for having to wire a 960km railway corridor between Melbourne and Sydney.

As for the Byron Bay train, it would be great if the Murwillumbah line could be restored as a fully-functioning commuter line. Since the line was closed in 2004 the region known as the Northern Rivers has boomed, with the popularity of Byron Bay creating ripples of prosperity through the area. The old railway goes through Mullumbimby and Bangalow, both of which have experienced population growth as people move beyond Byron. The government has been looking for ways to get people to live regionally and take the pressure of the burgeoning populations of Sydney and Melbourne. Restoring regional railways should be part of that plan. The restored line could also become a testing ground for electric engine trains in Australia.

This is Australia though, where big audacious infrastructure ideas are left in the too-hard basket. In the meantime, if you go to Byron Bay, just enjoy the ride of this solar-powered project.