The Bangkok to Ban Klong Luk Border train service goes from Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) to the Thailand-Cambodia border in Aranyaprathet. There are two trains a day in each direction, but the early morning service (Train No. 275) is the best if you are planning onward connections in Cambodia.

Train number: 275
Service: Ordinary
Depart Bangkok: 5:55 am
Arrive Ban Klong Luk Border: 11:17 am
Total travel time: 5h 22m

[Bangkok to Ban Klong Luk Border timetable.]

Depart from Hua Lamphong Station (Bangkok Station)

Most trains from Bangkok now depart from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. Trains that travel to Eastern Thailand still use the old Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong), so this is a good opportunity to experience the old station.

[Early morning inside the historic Hua Lamphong Station.]

The cafes aren’t open at this hour, so there is no chance to have a coffee and admire the station.

[Ban Klong Luk Border train at Hua Lamphong.]

Tickets

Tickets are available at the station on the day of travel. Tickets are not bookable in advance and there are no reserved seats. If you want to pick your preferred seat then you should board 30 minutes before departure.

[Ticket office at Hua Lamphong.]

The service is all 3rd Class seating, which is the cheapest form of travel in Thailand. The ticket costs 49 THB ($1.40 USD in December 2024).

[Bangkok to Ban Klong Luk Border ticket.]

Onboard Train No. 275

Train No. 275 is an “Ordinary” service, so it stops at most of the stations along the way. The train acts as a commuter service for Greater Bangkok, so the seats fill up quickly when it stops at the stations in Bangkok.

[Khlong Tan Station in Bangkok.]

The train passes Suvarnabhumi Airport at around 7 am, so it took an hour and 5 minutes to get this far.

[Under the Suvarnabhumi Airport flight path.]

You could technically board the train at other stations in Bangkok, but you will most likely not get a seat. It becomes standing-room only after a few stops.

[Standing-room only on Train No. 275.]

Chachoengsao is the largest station between Bangkok and the border. A lot of passengers get off here, but more passengers join as well. There are only two services a day to Aranyaprathet, and ultra-cheap fares makes it a popular route.

[Chachoengsao Station.]

There is no cafe carriage or official food carts, but there are food vendors that get on and off the train throughout the trip.

The seats are padded bench seats. They are confortable but it’s a bit tiresome to be bolt upright the entire trip.

[Seats on Train No. 275.]

The carriages have ceiling fans and the windows are kept open. These type of carriages will be phased out one day, so I enjoy the chance to ride on these trains with an open breeze and no glass between the scenery.

[Open windows on the Ordinary class train.]

The train stops at many stations, which accounts for the slow journey.

[Khlongsip Kao Junction.]

Even at the small stations there were many people getting off and on.

[Sa Kaeo Station.]

Some stations are just a little platform by the side of the track.

The train also has to stop to allow for the service in the other direction to pass.

[Waiting for the opposite train to pass.]

Ban Klong Luk Border

Ban Klong Luk Border Station is next to the Thailand-Cambodia border in Aranyaprathet. There is also an Aranyaprathet Station, but stay until the end of the line if you are crossing the border.

[Aranyaprathet Station (stay on the train if you are going to the border).]

Ban Klong Luk Border Station is right next to the border.

The Khlong Luek Border Checkpoint is next to the station. The border crossing is to your left as you exit the station.

[Walking from Ban Klong Luk Border Station to the border crossing.]

Walking across the border to Poipet, Cambodia

The train line is connected to Cambodia, but it is currently only used for freight. There is no cross-border passenger service between Thailand and Cambodia.

After going through Thailand immigration, you walk across the border to the Cambodia immigration building.

Once you clear immigration you exit the building and you are in the border city of Poipet. The city is famous for casinos and the vice that is associated with bordertowns. There are casinos as soon as you exit border crossing, and there is a Starbucks at the border entry.

[Starbucks at Poipet border gate.]

There is also an Amazon Cafe near the Starbucks, so you could stop in here to get wifi. If you use Grab taxi in Thailand it’s also available in Cambodia.

Poipet is a casino city that caters for Thai citizens, so the shops advertise prices in Thai baht.

Train from Poipet to Phnom Penh

The train line from Poipet continues to Phnom Penh (the Northern Line) but passenger trains are not currently running between Poipet and Battambang.

To travel from Bangkok to Phnom Penh in one day by train, you have to get a van or taxi between Poipet and Battambang. There is a Battambang to Phnom Penh train that departs at 15:00.

If you are taking this overlanding trip, then you are probably not in a great hurry, so I would recommend staying in Battambang as it is a charming little city.

Check transport from Poipet to Battambang.

Bus/van travel from Poipet to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh

Poipet has a bad reputation for being a dodgy border crossing. There are many tuktuk touts that will come up to you, but it seems that it is not as bad as it used to be.

The main problem with Poipet is that there are no onward bus services or travel agents next to the border crossing. This is where the hassle begins as you have to walk up the road to one of the travel agents that sell onward tickets.

Tuktuk drivers will ask where you are going and will drive you to a travel agent. You can just walk up the main road until you find a travel agent. There are a few travel agents on the left side of the main road, including some travel agents opposite Poipet Train Station. The station is about 10-minutes walk from the border crossing.

If you prefer to book a bus ticket in advance, there are different van and bus options via 12.go.

Transport from Poipet to Siem Reap.

Transport from Poipet to Phnom Penh.

This train travel review is part of the Southeast Asia railways guide.

The Bangkok Mass Transit System began with the launch of two BTS Skytrain lines in 1999. There are now 10 lines operating, with more lines planned and under construction.

The urban rail transit system of Bangkok is comprised of a mixture of railway systems operated by three different companies. There is no singular brand like “Bangkok Metro” for the network, and there is no official map of a unified rail system.

The lack of a unified map is the least of Bangkok’s worries though, as the different operators have not agreed to provide integrated interchanges. There is also no unified ticket system yet, so you need to buy a different ticket for each railway.

While getting around Bangkok has become much easier with the introduction of these new lines, it’s useful to know about the different lines and ticketing systems. This guide lists all of the different railways that form the Bangkok Mass Transit System, including the official websites and maps from each company.

Index

BTS Skytrain (Bangkok Mass Transit System)
Light Green Line
Dark Green Line
Gold Line
BTS Skytrain Map
BTS Skytrain tickets
MRT
Blue Line
Purple Line
Yellow Line
Pink Line
MRT Map
MRT Tickets
SRT Red Lines
SRT Dark Red Line
SRT Light Red Line
SRT Red Lines Tickets
Airport Rail Link (ARL)
Airport Rail Link Tickets
Alternative Bangkok Mass Transit System Maps
Future Lines

BTS Skytrain (Bangkok Mass Transit System)

Operator: Bangkok Mass Transit System Public Company Limited.
Official website: bts.co.th.

The BTS Skytrain was the first urban rail transit system in Bangkok, and it’s most commonly referred to as the BTS or Skytrain. There are two lines which both opened in 1999:

Sukhumvit line (Light Green Line)

The Sukhumvit line (Light Green Line) takes its name from the road that it runs on its East-West axis.

Silom line (Dark Green Line)

The Silom line is connected to the Sukhumvit Line at Siam, where there is a cross-platform interchange.

[Siam BTS Skytrain Station.]

Gold Line

The Gold Line is an automated people mover that was built to connect the Skytrain system to the Icon Siam development.

[Photo by Greg Jorgensen for Future Southeast Asia.]

BTS Skytrain Map

[View full size. Map via bts.co.th.]

The official BTS Skytrain map shows the two green BTS lines most prominently, with the the other systems represented with smaller lines.

BTS Skytrain Tickets

Single BTS tickets can be bought at the station, or you can buy the Rabbit stored value card. The Rabbit card can also be used in selected shops around Bangkok.

[Rabbitpay at a store in Bangkok.]

MRT

Operator: Bangkok Expressway and Metro (BEM).
Official Website: mrta.co.th.

The MRT (Metropolitan Rapid Transit) is a mass rapid transit system with 3 lines.

Blue Line

The Blue Line opened in 2004 and there are clumsy interchanges with the two BTS Green Lines.

Purple Line

The Purple Line opened in 2016, and there is a southern extension that is under construction.

[MRT Purple Line at Bang Son.]

Yellow Line

The Yellow Line is a straddle-beam monorail. The Yellow Line partially opened for trial runs on 3 June 2023 and it officially opened on 19 June 2023.

Here is a review of the Yellow Line monorail.

Pink Line

The MRT Pink Line is an elevated monorail train line in the north of Bangkok and Nonthaburi Province. The monorail line is 34.5 kilometres long and has 30 stations. The line opened on 21 November 2023 (free public trial operation) and it officially opened on 18 December 2023.

MRT Map

[View full size. Map via metro.bemplc.co.th.]

The online MRT map only shows the two MRT lines, with lines from other operators greyed out. The same map can be seen at MRT stations, including lines from the other operators.

[View full size map.]

This map shows lines from all operators equally (unlike the BTS map which makes their lines bigger on the map). The map shown at MRT stations also has the future lines covered in grey stickers.

MRT Tickets

[MRT token.]

MRT tickets can be bought as single tokens at the station, and there is also a stored value card.
(Check website metro.bemplc.co.th/Ticket-Token?ty=3&lang=en.)

SRT Red Lines

[View full size. Map via srtet.co.th.]

Official Website: srtet.co.th

The SRT Red Lines are two commuter lines (SRT Dark Red Line and SRT Light Red Line) that are operated by the State Railway of Thailand.

This is a commuter railway that serves the neighbouring provinces that form the Bangkok Metropolitan Region. The lines will be extended through Bangkok in the future, opening up more rail alternatives for Bangkok’s urban transit system.

[SRT Dark Red Line at Lak Si.]

SRT Dark Red Line

The Dark Red Line runs from Bang Sue to Rangsit. This line goes to Don Mueang Station, which is the train to Don Muang International Airport.

[Walkway to Don Muang International Airport.]

SRT Light Red Line

The Light Red Line runs from Bang Sue to Taling Chan.

SRT Red Lines Tickets

Tickets for the Red Lines are single tokens. Like the BTS and MRT, this is a separate ticketing system. If you are transferring from an SRT line to a BTS or MRT line, you need to get a new ticket.

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

[View full size.]

Owner: State Railway of Thailand.
Official Website: 202.139.212.153/index.php.

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Phaya Thai station. The line initially ran express and commuter services, with the express service also stopping at Makkasan Station. The express service is currently suspended, so the line has been reduced to a stopping-all-stations service.

[Bangkok Airport Rail Link.]

Makkasan Station was purpose-built as a remote airport terminal, where you could check in and have your bags checked in as well. The check-in service at Makkasan was eventually closed due to low passenger numbers. This line will eventually be replaced by the 3 airports rail link.

[Makkasan Station.]

Airport Rail Link Tickets

The Airport Rail Link uses tokens (like the Red Lines) and you cannot interchange with the BTS or MRT.

Alternative Bangkok Mass Transit System Maps

The BTS and MRT have produced separate maps that have their own style. There are some independent maps that show all of the lines, with the most useful map from Wikipedia.

[View full size. Map by Zeddlex via Wikimedia Commons.]

ExploreMetro shows the Bangkok Mass Transit System on a traditional metro-style map. The full map can be viewed on the website, or via their app.

[Bangkok Mass Transit System by ExploreMetro.]

This map by LivingPop has an integrated map that shows all lines as one system.

[View full size.]

UrbanRail.Net make maps from around the world in their own distinct standardised style.

Here is a Japanese-style subway map of the Bangkok mass transit system. This map by https://runbkk.net breaks the unwritten rule of metro mapping of using straight lines and 45-degree angles. Instead, this map has gone with jagged lines as needed, and the Japanese/English language makes it look like a system from somewhere in Japan. This map has not been updated for the Yellow Line and Pink Line

[View full size.]

Another independent map is from Transit Bangkok. This map is now out of date, but I have listed it here as a reference.

[View full size. Map by Transit Bangkok.]

Future Lines

This guide is for current travel in Bangkok, so for simplicity and clarity, I have kept the future lines off this guide. If you are interested in the future lines you can visit the future Bangkok Mass Rapid Transit System Guide at Future Southeast Asia.. The future map is at M-MAP 2.

Read more urban rail transit articles.

Train 7 is a Special Express service from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. This is the fastest train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, and the only day train between the two cities.

Special Express No. 7 departs Bangkok at 09:05 and arrives at Chiang Mai at 19:30.

Here is what to expect on Train 7 and if it’s a better alternative to the overnight trains.

Bangkok: Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station

Train 7 departs Bangkok from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (briefly known as Bang Sue Grand Station). Train 7 previously departed from Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong), so make sure you are going to the right station.

The station is best accessed by the MRT Blue Line on Bangkok’s mass transit system. There is an underground walkway from the MRT station to the terminal building. I arrived a bit earlier so I could walk around and have a look at the amazing station.

[James at Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station.]

Despite its enormity, finding your way around the station is easy enough. There are signs marking the way to the Northern Trains departure area. There are seats near the platform gates, and you can only enter the platform area once a boarding announcement has been made. This is more formal than the old Bangkok Station where you could wander in and out of the platform area.

Train 7 has allocated seating, so look for your carriage number.

Onboard Train 7

Train 7 is 2nd Class seats only in air-conditioned carriages. There are no sleeper cabins or 3rd class fan seats.

The train is a Special Express service, which makes it sound faster than it is. It’s a faster service compared to the sleeper train, but still slow by modern standards.

The 2nd class seats are comfortable seats that recline. There is no wifi, and no form of entertainment such as tv screens. There are no power outlets either, so come prepared. I happened to be sitting at the front seat for one section, and that had the only power outlet in the carriage.

Toilets

The trains have toilets onboard.

[Squat toilet]

[Seat toilet.]

Food

The ticket includes lunch but it doesn’t give you the option to choose. Lunch is served in these sealed microwave packs with two types of meat dish, and a sealed tray of rice.

I was served lunch during the section between Bangkok and Phitsanulock, and I was served lunch when I took the train from Phitsanulok to Chiang Mai.

Train 7 is better for a multi-stop trip

I have used this train to visit places on the way to Chiang Mai, but I have never done the trip in one sitting (I either fly or get an overnight train).

With a total travel time of 10h 25m, this is a hard sell compared to flying, where there are cheap and plentiful flights on this route.

For these long distances in Thailand, overnight trains are a more popular option. There are four overnight trains between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

Train 7 is a good option if you want to make multiple stops on the way to Chiang Mai. This train stops at some of the highlights of Central and Northern Thailand, which you would miss if you fly straight to Chiang Mai.

Some highlights include:

Ayutthaya: Ruins of the former capital.
Lopburi: The Monkey Temple (and thousands of monkeys).
Phitsanulok: Near Sukhothai Historical Park.
Lamphun: Historic provincial capital in Northern Thailand.

Phitsanulok is the midway point of this trip, so I stopped here on my last trip.

[Phitsanulok Station.]

This train also has the advantage of travelling in daylight hours, so you can see the view that you miss on the night train (or flying).

The section from Phitsanulok to Chiang Mai becomes more mountainous and scenic. This is a slower section, but worth it for the views.

How to buy tickets for Bangkok to Chiang Mai trains

Tickets are available at the station, though I recommend buying tickets in advance as tickets sell out.

[Ticket office at Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station.]

The easiest way to buy tickets is with 12Go. This site lets you compare all the train times alongside bus and air travel, in case your preferred option isn’t available.

You can choose your seat location, and the ticket is sent to you as a PDF which you can show on your phone to the ticket inspector.

Search for Bangkok to Chiang Mai train tickets.

[Nomadic Notes is.a 12Go affiliate, and I personally use the site for ticket bookings.]

Future Bangkok-Chiang Mai high-speed railway

Considering how much air traffic there is between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, there have been a number of proposals for a Bangkok to Chiang Mai high-speed railway, but there is nothing planned at the moment.

This train travel article is part of the Southeast Asia rail travel series.

A guide to the best areas to stay in Bangkok

Do a search for hotels in Bangkok and you will be presented with hundreds of options to choose from (over 1400 when I last checked). If you’ve never been to Bangkok, then picking which area to stay in will also add to the challenge.

To narrow down your options of where to stay in Bangkok I’ve put together a list of neighbourhoods that are the best areas for a short-term visitor. Bangkok is famous for bad traffic, so staying in an area that is near the rail transit system and amenities will make your trip better.

Where to stay in Bangkok guide

Map of Bangkok hotels
Best areas to stay in Bangkok
Khao San Road (Famous backpacker area with cheap hotels)
National Stadium (Budget hotels in central location)
Siam / Chitlom / Phloen Chit (The middle of modern Bangkok)
Lower Sukhumvit (The start of the main road of Bangkok)
Mid-Sukhumvit (Big malls and popular expat area)
Silom/Sathorn (Original business district near Lumphini Park)
Riverside (Hotels with a view)
Other areas to stay in Bangkok
Hua Lamphong (Old Bangkok Railway Station)
Chinatown (Must-visit area for markets and street food)
Ari (Cool area for longer stays)
Soi Ngam Dupli (The original backpacker street of Bangkok)
New hotels in Bangkok (Notable new hotels in Bangkok)
Frequently asked questions
Is it worth staying near the new train station?

Map of Bangkok hotels

Hotels mentioned in this article are pinned on this map, along with metro stations in each area.

[View map of Bangkok hotels.]

Best areas to stay in Bangkok

The point of these Where To Stay guides is to narrow down which area to stay.

If you are on a budget or just want to see the historic old city, then stay on Khao San Road.

For staying in the city, the West-East route of the BTS Skytrain from National Stadium to Thanglor along Sukhumvit Road.

Khao San Road

Khao San Road is a famous backpacker street in the Banglamphu area of the old city of Bangkok.

Khao San Road was my first stop in Thailand, as it is for most budget backpackers. If you are looking for the cheapest accommodation in Bangkok then this is where to go. Here you will find everything from hostels, flophouses, and cheap guesthouses, as well as flashpacker resort-style hotels.

The first time I stayed here I just walked along the street until I found a vacant room. Back then, the cheapest places weren’t bookable online and finding a place without a reservation was possible.

These days it’s becoming harder to just walk up and take a room, so it’s advisable to book a room in advance.

KSR is great for backpackers as you can arrange transport and activities at backpacker prices from the numerous travel agents in the area. It’s also near the historic must-sees of Bangkok (Grand Palace, Wat Pho).

Staying in the Khao San Road area includes Khao San Road itself, and Rambuttri Road, which runs parallel to KSR and then across Chakrabongse Rd next to Wat Chana Songkram. I prefer Rambuttri as it’s much quieter and greener, especially the section along the Buddhist temple, and the touts aren’t as aggressive here. Khao San Road gets extremely noisy at night, so stay on Khao San Road if you are here to party.

The disadvantage of KSR is that it’s disconnected from the rest of the city, with no metro lines reaching here. Expats who live in Bangkok tend to rubbish Khao San Road as if they are too cool for it. I don’t stay there any more, but I still marvel at what a spectacle Khao San Road is. It is not something you see anywhere else.

Search hotels near Khao San Road.

Budget

The Khao San Road area is overflowing with budget hotel options. If you are just looking for the cheapest room then the best option is to sort by price and see what is available.

Lamphuhouse Bangkok on Soi Rambruttri is one of the stalwart backpacker hotels. Here you will find basic rooms with a fan (no air conditioning) and shared bathrooms. That is typical of the cheapest private rooms in Thailand.

Villa Cha Cha Banglumphu is like a backpacker resort, with a swimming pool and rooms with private bathrooms.

Mid-range (3-4 Stars)

Rambuttri Village Hotel is a budget hotel on a large property on Rambruttri Road.

Chillax Heritage Hotel Khaosan is in a modern building with a rooftop pool.

National Stadium

One stop from Siam station is National Stadium BTS Station. This is next to the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre and the MBK shopping mall. This area includes Soi Kasem San 1, which is a street with some budget hotel options. This area is usually counted as Siam in travel guides. This area though has a different feel from the luxury hotels of Siam, so I have made a separate section.

Soi Kasem San 1 is a small street that runs between National Stadium BTS and the Saen Saep Canal. At the end of the street is an alley that leads to the Jim Thompson House Museum. The street used to be known for its budget hotels, but it now has a varied mix of accommodation types. It is still good value considering it is such a central location.

Muangphol Mansion is an old-school budget hotel at the start of Soi Kasem San 1.

A-One Inn is a 3-star hotel that has traveller guesthouse vibes.

Reno Hotel Bangkok is a mid-range hotel with a swimming pool.

LiT BANGKOK Hotel is a modern boutique ‘Art’ hotel, and its modern design stands out from the rest of the street.

[LiT BANGKOK Hotel.]

Near the Naational Stadium BTS is Lub d Bangkok Siam Hostel.

Also next to the BTS station is the Ibis Bangkok Siam.

Siam @ Siam Design Hotel Bangkok is a boutique luxury hotel honours the neighbourhood’s industrial history.

Siam / Chitlom / Phloen Chit

Bangkok is a spread-out city with no real central monument where you can say “This is the middle of Bangkok”. If you had to nominate such a spot it would be Siam Square, where the two BTS lines interchange. There isn’t much of a square at Siam Square though; it is a jumble of mega shopping malls connected by walkways.

Siam, Chitlom, and Phloen Chit are three BTS Stations on the Sukhumvit Line, west of Sukhumvit Road.

Siam is a good area if you want to spend your time shopping or if you plan to travel everywhere by BTS.

Chitlom and Phloen Chit has a high proportion of international luxury hotels. The area around Ratchadamri Station on the Silom line is almost exclusively 5-star hotels.

Search hotels near Siam Square

Mid-range (3-4 Stars)

Novotel Bangkok On Siam Square Hotel is in the midst of the Siam Square area.

Luxury (5 Stars)

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok is remarkable for its resort-style swimming pool in the middle of the city.

[Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok.]

Centara Grand at Central World Hotel is connected to the Central World Mall, and there are skywalks to Siam and Chitlom BTS stations.

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok is in front of one the most popular shrines in the city (the Erawan Shrine).

Lower Sukhumvit

Sukhumvit Road serves as the main street of Bangkok. It’s a long road that goes all the way to the Cambodian border, making it (reputedly) the longest street in the world. For visitors to Bangkok, when people say they are staying in the Sukhumvit area, this usually refers to the area between the BTS Skytrain stations from Nana to Thong Lo. There is no district called Sukhumvit.

Information about the Sukhumvit Road numbering system
The roads in Thailand are numbered by their Soi (a lane or side street that branches off a major street). So Sukhumvit 11 means Sukhumvit Rd at Soi 11.

When choosing a hotel on Sukhumvit be aware of just how “on” it is. I once booked a hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 40. I knew that Thong Lo BTS station is at Soi 38 so I figured the hotel was one street over from the station. The thing with the sois of Sukhumvit is that they are ridiculously long. The hotel I booked was at the far end of the soi, meaning a 25-minute walk just to get back to Sukhumvit. At the start of every soi you will see motorbike taxis (wearing orange vests) who will ride you the rest of the way down your soi, but I prefer to be no more than a ten-minute walk from a BTS station.

[Motorbike taxi drivers at the entrance to a soi.]

Lower Sukhumvit generally refers to the area between Nana and Asok BTS station. This is Sukhumvit Road at its most touristic peak.

Nana (Sukhumvit 4) marks the start of Sukhumvit Rd and is best known for the Nana Entertainment Plaza (a 3-storey building filled with girlie bars). Sukhumvit 4 and 8 have red-light district vibes, so avoid that area if that is not your thing.

Search hotels near Nana.

Opposite Soi 4 is Soi 3, also known as Soi Arab for its Middle Eastern restaurants and shisha bars. At night the footpaths along Sukhumvit are transformed into a night market, making walking along the street difficult, so I try to avoid this area as much as possible.

Asok (also written as Asoke) is where the Asok BTS and Sukhumvit MRT interchange, making it one of the prime public transport hubs of Bangkok. At the corner of Asoke Rd (Soi 21) and Sukhumvit is the Terminal 21 shopping mall. Tucked away between Soi 21 and 23 is Soi Cowboy, the famous red-light street, wall-to-wall with go-go bars.

[Asok BTS Walkway – Bangkok.]

Search hotels near BTS Asoke station

Budget

There are plenty of budget hotels in Lower Sukhumvit, but you don’t get much for your money compared to Khao San Road. There are some hostels in the area, so this is a good option if you want to experience city life instead of being in the budget tourist area of Khao San Road.

Mid-range (3-4 Stars)

Red Planet Bangkok Asoke is a budget chain hotel with clean and basic rooms. It’s on Soi 14 near Asok BTS.

[Read my review of Red Planet Bangkok Asoke.]

Sukhumvit 11 is a busy hotel street, and it includes the contemporary Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11.

Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok is just off Sukhumvit, close the Asok/Sukhumvit intersection. Here is my review of the Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok.

[Pool at Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok.]

Luxury (5 Stars)

Mövenpick Hotel Sukhumvit 15 Bangkois a 5-star hotel in Asoke that offers close access to Terminal 21 Shopping Center and Bumrungrad Hospital.

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok is between Sukhumvit 17 and 19.

Grande Centre Point Hotel Terminal 21 is part of the popular Terminal 21 mall, right on the Asok/Sukhumvit intersection.

Mid-Sukhumvit

Mid-Sukhumvit is the area around Phrom Phong, Thang Lo, and Ekkamai BTS stations. When looking for places to stay, I prefer to be near Phrom Phong or Thang Lo stations, though if you go further up then make sure your hotel is near a station.

Phrom Phong is near Benjasiri Park (the only park on Sukhumvit), so this makes for a welcome place to walk in greenery. Halfway between Asok and Phrom Phong is Soi 22, which has lots of hotels, massage parlours, and bars. There are residential apartment towers that line the length of Sukhumvit to the end of the Skytrain line.

Search hotels near BTS Phrom Phong

Soi 55 is known as Thong Lo (sometimes spelled as Thonglor), and this area has become a popular area for digital nomads to stay. Thong Lo has become known as “The Beverly Hills of Bangkok” due to its popularity among the HiSo. Along Soi 55 there are other sois that branch off making it an area worth exploring. I like this section of Sukhumvit because it feels more neighbourhoody and less touristy.

Search hotels near BTS Thong Lor

Budget

Baan Sukhumvit Soi 20 is a budget hotel tucked away in a small alley off Soi 20.

There are not many budget hotels to choose from around Thonglor. Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn Hotel is on Soi 57 if you are just looking for a cheap room in that area.

Mid-range (3-4 Stars)

St. James Hotel is a 3-star hotel that is popular with Japanese business travellers.

[Read my review of the St. James Hotel.]

Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit is a big hotel on the corner of Soi 22. Convenient for Benchasiri Park and the EmQuartier mall.

Retro 39 Hotel is a budget hotel near Phrom Phong BTS station.

[Read my review of the Retro 39 Hotel.]

Luxury (5 Stars)

Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park is a behemoth of a hotel on Sukhumvit 22 that overlooks Benchasiri Park. This hotel was formerly known as Imperial Queen’s Park.

Hotel Nikko Bangkok is ideally located near the start of Thanglor.

MUU Bangkok Hotel is a modern luxury hotel that opened on Thanglor in 2022. Facilities at the hotel include a gym and a rooftop double infinity-edged swimming pool. MUU Bangkok is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Marriott Executive Apartments Bangkok Sukhumvit Thonglor

[Sukhumvit Rd at Thong Lo. as viewed from the rooftop bar at Marriott Thonglor.]

Silom/Sathorn

[Silom skyline.]

Silom Road was the original business and tourist area before Sukhumvit Road became more popular. Sathorn is a big road with apartments and office towers. Silom has the benefit of being near Lumphini Park.

Silom is a tourist hotspot with a variety of hotels for all budgets. Two transit systems cross here, with Sala Daeng BTS and Si Lom MRT meeting (albeit with a clumsy interchange) so it makes a good base for exploring the city.

Silom Road is a mix of office towers, hotels and malls, and some sections of Silom are overtaken by market stalls in the evening. Even with all the tourist places, there are still plenty of local eating options, such as the street vendors on Convent Rd and the Silom market on Soi 10.

One of the streets off Silom Road is Patpong Rd (home of the infamous ping pong show girlie bars), and in the evening Patpong Rd is transformed into the Patpong Night Bazaar, where you can find all sorts of knock-off items.

Not far from Silom and Sathorn is the massive One Bangkok project, which is a new business district that overlooks Lumphini Park.

One of the remnants of the old Silom era was the Dusit Thani Hotel. This landmark hotel was demolished in 2019, and in its place will be Dusit Central Park.

One Bangkok and Dusit Central Park will help will move the financial centre of gravity back towards this area.

Search hotels near Silom

Budget

Silom SPACE Hostel has a prime location on Silom Road, near the MRT and BTS.

Mid-range (3-4 Stars)

Tawana Bangkok Hotel is one block away from Silom Road, close to transport and the shopping area.

[Read my review of the Tawana Bangkok Hotel.]

Holiday Inn Express Bangkok Sathorn is near Chong Nonsi BTS Station.

Luxury (5 Stars)

The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon is located at the iconic Mahanakhon Tower.

Near the Mahanakhon is the W Bangkok, which is next to the House on Sathorn.

[Check rates for W Bangkok.]

Pullman Bangkok Hotel G is located on Silom Road.

Riverside

Another option is to stay by the Chao Phraya River. There is no area called riverside, so I have just listed some notable hotels that have river views. One of the best riverfront hotels in Bangkok is the Shangri-La Bangkok.

[Shangri-La Hotel pool. Read my review of the Shangri-La Bangkok.]

Nearby is the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. This luxury 5-star hotel is a historic part of the riverfront, as its origins date back to 1876 when it opened as The Oriental. It was the first hotel built in Thailand when the riverfront area opened up to foreign traders.

The riverfront area is not well connected by public transport and there are a lack of general amenities, so it’s not the best option for first-timers.

Other areas to stay in Bangkok

Here are some more areas to stay in Bangkok for consideration. I wouldn’t recommend for first-times, but I put them here for the public record if you are a repeat visitor.

Hua Lamphong

[Hua Lamphong Train Station.]

Hua Lamphong was the main train station of Bangkok, but the main station has moved to Bang Sue Grand Station.

Some train services still operate from here, and there is a shuttle bus to the new station. Around the station, there are some budget guesthouses and hotels.

I previously listed Hua Lamphong as an area to stay if you had a train to catch. This area isn’t convenient for train travel now there is a new station, so this is now demoted to the “other areas” section. The area has the benefit of being near China Town and next to the MRT Blue Line.

Search hotels near Hua Lamphong

Chinatown

Chinatown in the old city is one of the most interesting places to visit in Bangkok. Yaowarat Road is a spectacle at night, and the MRT Blue Line extension at Wat Mangkon has made it more accessible than ever.

As for an area to stay, I don’t recommend it for first-timers, but if you have been to Bangkok a few times then it’s an option to do something different. One place that stood out for me as a Chinatown experience was staying at the Shanghai Mansion Bangkok. Here is my review of this 1930s-era Shanghai theme hotel.

[Bar at Shanghai Mansion Bangkok.]

Ari

Ari has become one of the more fashionable neighbourhoods of Bangkok, where cafes and hipster bars mix with markets and street food stalls. It’s five stops from Siam on the Sukhumvit line so it’s easy to get around from here. Ari is a popular place for expats to live, though it doesn’t have many hotel options. It’s a good area to look for an Airbnb apartment. Here is my review of an Airbnb apartment in Ari.

Soi Ngam Dupli

Before Khao San Road became the backpacker street, the original backpacker street was Soi Ngam Dupli near Lumphini Park. There are a few remnants left from its heyday, but all the backpacker action has moved to Khao San Road. I list this area for those who are curious about the neighbourhoods of Bangkok. I stayed at a few different places here, including the Malaysia Hotel. This hotel is famous for being listed in the first Lonely Planet from 1973 (Across Asia on the Cheap). Here is my review of the Malaysia Hotel, though it has since been refurbished.

New hotels in Bangkok

This guide is continually being updated as hotels come and go. Here are the most notable hotels that have opened in Bangkok:

MUU Bangkok Hotel (opened 1 December 2022): 5-star modern luxury hotel on Thang Lo.

Frequently asked questions

Is it worth staying near the new train station?

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal is in a redeveloped area in the north of the city. There is nothing around the station yet so it is not worth staying in the area. Bang Sue is connected to the MRT Blue line, so it is easy to get to Sukhumvit Road and Silom.

Bangkok to Hua Hin on Train 261 Ordinary Train service

The train from Bangkok to Hua Hin is an easy way to get to this beach city near Bangkok. Even though the main train station of Bangkok has moved to Bang Sue, it’s still possible to get a train from the old Bangkok Station (Hua Lamphong).

This article is a review of Train 261 that from Hua Lamphong to Hua Hin.

[Hua Lamphong / Bangkok Station.]

Hua Lamphong is officially known as Bangkok Station, though you can call it both. If you are arriving by taxi then make sure they take you to Hua Lamphong and not the new station at Bang Sue.

Most train services have moved from Hua Lamphong to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, but there are some service that still run here.

Train 261 departs Bangkok at 9.20 and there are no reserved seats, so you just buy a ticket on the morning of departure. You can confirm it is operating on the official website at railway.co.th/Station/StationList.

Ordinary Trains are the cheapest trains in Thailand. The ticket cost 44 THB ($1.25 USD) as of 2023.

I arrived early to get a ticket, and then had a coffee at Black Canyon Coffee overlooking the main hallway.

You can board the train about 30 minutes before departure, and for unreserved seats I prefer to arrive early to secure a seat.

The seats are padded bench seats, and there is no A/C. The carriages have fans and the windows are left open unless it is raining. This is a nice change of pace to travel on a train with open windows and to have an unobstructed view. I have seen photos of the carriages that have wooden bench seats, but the train I was on didn’t have wooden seats.

The train stops at Bang Sue Junction, which is opposite the behemoth Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (the new main station of Bangkok).

[Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal.]

Train 261 stops at smaller stations, so it’s slower than the express train. The train also stops at passing loops while waiting for opposing trains to pass. This will soon be a thing of the past when the double tracking project is complete.

The train has toilets of the squat and seated variety.

There is no restaurant section, though there are many food and drink vendors that board the train during the trip.

I have taken the bus and minivan to Hua Hin numerous times, and the road is a big highway through urban blight. I didn’t realise that the province of Petchaburi was so scenic.

I appreciated having the open windows to get a clear view.

The train is scheduled to arrive at Hua Hin at 13.35, though expect delays. The station is near the city centre, so it is walkable to the best areas to stay in Hua Hin.

[Train 261 arrived at Hua Hin.]

There a new station being built next to Hua Hin Station, and an elevated line is being built in Hua Hin along with the double tracking project.

Overall this was an enjoyable way to get to Hua Hin. Even though the minivan is a faster option, this is a far more relaxing way to arrive. I think the morning express train is better as you arrive at lunch time, but this is a good way to go if you can’t get an express ticket.

The return leg is Train 262, departing Hua Hin at 14.10 and arriving in Bangkok at 19.00.

If you are new to Hua Hin, then read my trip report for Hua Hin.

Read train travel is part of a series of train travel in Southeast Asia.

It’s been 50 years since the publication of the original guide book that launched Lonely Planet.

Across Asia on the Cheap was published in 1973 by Tony and Maureen Wheeler after overlanding from London to Australia. The publication of the guide book has become the stuff of legend. They typed and stapled the guidebook on their kitchen table, and they sold 1500 copies within a week.

The book sold for $1.80 AUD, so that is $2,700 AUD. Working that figure out today, 1 AUD in June 1973 was 1.4155 USD, so 1.8 AUD = 2.55 USD. Using an inflation calculator, that works out to $17.47 USD in 2023 money.

$17.47 x 1500 = $26,205 USD in 2023 money.

The immediate popularity was incentive enough to do it again, and two years later South-East Asia on a Shoestring was published. Southeast Asia on a Shoestring is still sold today, and copies of “The Yellow Bible” can be found in hostels and guesthouses across the region.

I have a copy buried in storage somewhere so I couldn’t take a photo for this article. By pure chance I moved to a new place when I was writing this article, and there is a copy on the shelf.

It is displayed here like a collected ornament, a curio from another era, like your grandfather’s phonograph record player that no longer has a purpose (or if you are a young person, your grandfather’s Walkman).

This is the 2004 edition with 972 pages. I think mine was from 2006, and it has the same chonky heft to it as this one.

Can you believe that it wasn’t that long ago when we used to have these in our bags.

In a case of unbelievably good timing, the Wheelers sold Lonely Planet to the BBC in 2007, and they sold their remaining stake in 2011.

Across Asia on the Cheap was re-released on PDF and Kindle in 2013 when Lonely Planet turned 40, and I wrote a review about this amazing historical archive of a bygone era.

Lonely Planet is turning 50 this year and I happen to be in Thailand at this time, so I thought I would go through the Thailand section to see what has changed.

Across Asia on the Cheap – Thailand (1973)

Across Asia on the Cheap has 94 pages, of which 4 pages is dedicated to Thailand. Of that, there is about a page dedicated to things to see. It gives the most amount of printed real estate to Wat Po (about 1 paragraph) and mentions the mother of pearl inlaid soles on the reclining Buddha.

[Pretty sure this view has not changed in 50 years.]

Other temple mentions include Wat Phra Keo (the temple of the emerald Buddha), Wat Arun, and Wat Benchamborpit across the road from Dusit Zoo (which closed in 2018).

The guide also mentions Bangkok’s prime attraction of the floating market as being “virtually tourists only”. It doesn’t say which market in particular, but I have heard the refrain of the floating markets being too touristy ever since I have been coming to Thailand. Perhaps this is a long-held tradition to gripe about tourists. I imagine sailors disembarking on the docks of the Chao Phraya River in the 1930s complaining about the tourists as well.

The only other places that are mentioned are Chiang Mai, Ayuthya, the bridge over the river Kwai, Nakorn Pathom, and an elephant round up in Surin.

Accommodation

The Thailand section includes a grand total of 4 hotel recommendations for the entire country, all of which are in Bangkok. I was surprised to find that 3 of the 4 are still in operation.

The first listing is for Thai Song Greet with a description you wouldn’t see in a 2023 guide book:

“Next to the railway station is Thai Song Greet, cheap at 30 bahts a double, but incredibly noisy from the traffic outside, The good restaurant downstairs is the Bangkok bottleneck point for overlanders, Efforts may be made to pad your bill out (if you are male this is) with local talent, beware — Bangkok has developed some heavy breeds of VD.”

This guesthouse has closed down, but I found this great travellers recollection from 1977. There are also some photos from Old Bangkok.

[Thai Song Greet Hotel 1980 from oldbangkok.com.]

The next listing is Starlight Hotel:

“Rather better accommodation is the Starlight Hotel at Soi 22 Sukumvit — Soi 22 is the 22nd road off the Sukumvit road, Air conditioning and a private bathroom for 40 bahts is reasonable, but during the rush hour it can be a long ride from the centre, Buses are so cheap that transportation in and out is no financial problem.”

I wasn’t familiar with Starlight Hotel but I knew the location so I went to look for it. It was amusing to read that it was located “a long ride from the centre”. Sukhumvit 22 is now near what is arguably the new city centre at Asok.

[Sukhumvit 22]

Starlight 22 is down an alley lined with girlie bars.

Starlight 22 is at the end of the alley, and behind it is the gargantuan Emsphere Mall project.

Room rates start at 400 THB, so it is still a bargain in today’s money. In keeping with the old days, this hotel is not listed on any booking sites so you have to walk in or book in advance.

[Starlight room rates.]

The Atlanta gets a brief mention, and it has been trading off this claim to fame ever since. From the guide:

“The Atlanta at Soi 2 Sukumvit is about the same level although we hear that bad scenes take place there with the cops on occasion, Around the railway station area are a number of other cheap hotels.”

The Atlanta is right down the end of a dead-end street, so there is very little traffic.

I have never seen the building but I have seen the entrance sign “Sex Tourists Not Welcome” posted online before.

I was pleasantly surprised to see the foyer decked out in art deco style. The hotel celebrated its 70th anniversary last year, and the hotel has a website looks like it is about to celebrate it 20th anniversary, giving me some sweet HTML coding nostalgia.

Interesting to note that it isn’t listed on online booking sites either. One of the things about being listed in Lonely Planet was that if you got listed you were guaranteed a steady stream of walk-in traffic. You would never need to advertise if you were listed in the Lonely Planet. The name of The Atlanta must be so well known that they can fill their rooms without relying on booking agents.

Here is another review from Travelfish to get an idea of it.

The last hotel that is still running is The Malaysia:

“We spent one night in quite a different class of accommodation in Bangkok. The Malaysia, a very flash looking place, was doing some special deal whereby you could have the first night at 40 bahts and thereafter at 60. Our theory was that with Viet Nam R and R business disappearing a lot of Bangkok hotels are looking hard in other directions for business.”

I stayed here after reading that it was listed, and here the review of my stay.

[The Malaysia Hotel in 2023.]

The hotel has been renovated again since I was there, and I have met other people who have stayed there or know about it.

The hotel is near Soi Ngam Dupli, which ended up becoming the backpacker street of Bangkok (before Khao San Road was the backpacker street). I am wondering if it became the backpacker street on the strength of the Malaysia Hotel listing. Did backpackers turn up to The Malaysia to find it solidly booked out, thus guesthouses started springing up around it to catch the overspill?

One person who would know the answer to this is Joe Cummings, who was the author of the first individual edition of Lonely Planet Thailand. There is a great interview with Joe on the Bangkok Podcast.

For the rest of the country the book just mentions “Elsewhere in Thailand”:

“you can generally find reasonable accommodation for around 20 bahts a double and very good places for 40 to 60 bahts, As in Malaya cheap hotels can be very noisy in the small hours. You can frequently stay free in Buddhist Wats, so long as you’re willing to let the monks practise their English on you. You’ll be doing that anyway!”

Tourists staying for free at wats is now the last thing Thailand wants.

Transport

As someone who writes about transport in Southeast Asia, I found the transport section to be a fascinating insight. Keeping in the spirit of the hippy trail and the simpler times, there are many references to hitchhiking,

There is a reference for getting the Butterworth-Bangkok train for $6 AUD. Unfortunately that train stopped running in 2016, reducing the number of international train in Southeast Asia. It mentions that the Hat Yai to Bangkok train is $5 AUD, so we can use that to compare.

5 AUD in 1973 = 7.08 USD. In 2023 dollars that is about $48.50 USD.

Checking train tickets from Bangkok to Hat Yai in 2023 I found a 2nd Class Sleeper AC ticket for $40 USD, so it is theoretically cheaper to travel by train now than it was 50 years ago. The 1973 guide book doesn’t mention what kind of seat it was, but there definitely wasn’t AC.

Thailand has had train ticket prices frozen on some routes for decades, which is why prices are so cheap (and partly why the State Railways of Thailand are losing so much money). That is a topic I will cover on Future Southeast Asia (subscribe here).

One of the biggest changes to the way people travel is how cheap flying has become. The demise of overland travel as championed by this guide book can be partly attributed to cheap flights.

The guide book lists a sample of flights, and I will use the Bangkok-Calcutta fare as an example.

The ticket here is $76 AUD, so that is 107.58 USD in 1973 (in 2023, 76 Dollarydoos gets you just 51 USD 😭 ).

I had a look on Kayak for flights from Bangkok to Kolkata (as it is now known) and here are the sample fares:

The cheapest fare is about $130 USD, so not really that much different in real terms from 1973. Adjusted for inflation, the 107.38 in 1973 would be $735.04! No wonder that overlanding was so popular if airfares were so expensive.

It gets even more absurd for longhaul flights.

Sydney to Bangkok is listed as $344 AUD (486.93 USD in 1973). Here is a sample for Sydney to Bangkok flights I found on Skyscanner (in USD).

Even if you add bags and fees to the AirAsia flight, that would be about $250 USD. The Thai Airways flight is cheaper than the 1973 flight. Adjusted for inflation 486.93 USD in 1973 would be about $3,335.33 🤯.

Other countries on the cheap

The guidebook lists countries from Australia to Europe, so I will revisit this guide if I happen to be in other countries this year. Subscribe to get updates of future posts.

Notes

I used this historical currency converter to get 1973 rate.

I used usinflationcalculator.com to get an estimate of 1973 USD in 2023. I present these calculations as ballpark figures for illustration, and it is not presented as precise.

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (also known as Bang Sue Grand Station) is the new central railway station of Bangkok, replacing the existing Bangkok Station (Hua Lamphong). The station is located next to Bang Sue Junction Station in the north of Bangkok.

[Bang Sue Junction next to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal.]

The station began operations in August 2021 with the opening of the SRT Red Lines. The station was officially opened in January 2023, when it was then given its official name of Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. The station had already branded itself as Bang Sue Grand Station, thus the confusion of having the station with two names.

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal is the largest railway station in Southeast Asia. There are 24 platforms, plus the 2 platforms of the MRT station.

This is a user guide for Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal.

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal map

[Map of Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal.]

Train lines

These are the train lines that are connected to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal.

MRT Blue Line

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal is linked to the Bangkok urban rail transit system by the MRT Blue Line. The MRT station is accessed from the terminal via an underground walkway. To get anywhere else in Bangkok from the Blue Line, refer to the Bangkok mass transit system guide.

SRT Red Lines

There are two commuter lines that start at the terminal: SRT Dark Red Line, and SRT Light Red Line. Entrances to the commuter line platforms are clearly marked. You just have to remember the line destination of the colour red you are using. Dark Red Line goes to Rangsit, Light Red Line goes to Taling Chan.

Commuter Line information is shown on a separate departure board, and not mixed with long-distance trains.

Tickets are sold via a vending machine or the dedicated Commuter Line ticket booth. The ticket system of Bangkok is a mess, as each operator sells tickets separately.

The Rangsit Line has a stop at Don Muang Airport. Here is a guide for getting the train from Bang Sue to Don Muang Airport.

Long-distance trains

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal is the terminal station for Northern, Northeastern, and Southern rail services. Eastern services and special train services still use Hua Lamphong.

Long-distance trains have a separate section from the commuter railways, and there are signs that clearly mark where to go.

[Departures for Northern, Northeastern, and Southern services.]

Long-distance trains also have their own dedicated departure boards.

There is a dedicated ticket area for long-distance trains.

You are advised to book a ticket in advance, especially for overnight trains. 12go.asia is the site i use to book Thailand train tickets

Each long-distance region has a dedicated waiting area before being let onto the platform. Make sure you are sitting in the right waiting area.

High-Speed Rail and Airport Rail Link

There is a high-speed railway being built from Bangkok to Nong Khai, and maybe one day there will be a high-speed railway to Chiang Mai and Hua Hin. There is no high-speed railway at the moment though, but these signs are in place in preparation.

There are also signs for the Airport Rail Link, which will be the 3 Airport High-Speed Railway service. This has not been built yet either. This is not to be confused with the Commuter Railway that happens to stop at Don Muang Airport. This is not referred to as an airport railway, so just go to the Commuter Line if you are going to Dong Muang.

Services and amenities

Food

There is one food court in the terminal building.

There is not a lot of variety, but the prices are normal (not airport prices).

Yap Cafe sells snacks.

7-Eleven only has a vending machine here.

Cafes

There is a coffee stand in the food court.

There are no cafes where you can sit anywhere in the building

Taobin Coffee has a vending machine here.

Shops

Most of the shops are small kiosks. There are no brand stores yet, though there are plans to add more shops in the future.

Massage shop.

Pharmacy (Pharma Shop).

Sim Cards

There is a sim card and phone accessory shop near the Southern Line waiting area.

Some of the kiosks also sell sim cards.

Luggage lockers

Luggage lockers are available at the station.

Here is the price list for the lockers.

Money

There is an ATM hiding among the drink vending machines. So far there is no currency exchange service.

Scale model

An interesting thing to see is the scale model of the station building.

There is also a model of the surrounding area, showing little houses and the roads that surround it.

Around the station

Unlike Hua Lamphong, where there are cafes, restaurants, and hotels nearby, there is not much around the station yet. There is a plan to redevelop the precinct into a new urban area, but that is years away from happening.

There is a cheap restaurant near Bang Sue Junction Station if you arrive early and want somewhere else to eat.

Further reading

Bang Sue Grand Station fact sheet – news and information about the construction of the station, and future plans.

Bang Sue Grand Station construction update – my trip report to the construction site in 2019.

Don Muang was the original airport of Bangkok until it was replaced by Suvarnabhumi. After closing down briefly, it reopened as a hub for low-cost airlines serving flights from the Asia-Pacific region.

The airport was served by infrequent long-distance trains at Don Muang Station across the road. If you arrived at the wrong hour you could wait hours for the next train, so it was not a reliable means of travel.

In 2021 the SRT Commuter Rail opened (Dark Red Line), providing frequent services from Don Muang to the new central station of Bangkok at Bang Sue.

This guide shows how the get the train from Dong Muang to central Bangkok, and what are the alternatives if the train isn’t suitable.

Don Muang Airport Train Map

[Map of Don Muang Airport Train.]

Getting from Don Muang Airport to Don Muang Station

Don Muang Station is an elevated station opposite the airport. This replaces the old Don Muang Station which ran at ground level. The new station includes platforms for long-distance trains to the north and northeast, and platforms for the commuter railway. The commuter railway goes to the main train station of Bangkok at Bang Sue.

To get to the station, follow the signs to SRT Red Line. It is not referred to as “Airport Train” on the signs.

There is a step-free walkway that connects the airport to the station on the other side of a massive highway.

At the station, you are presented with two options; Long Distance and Commuter. For trains to Bangkok, you need the commuter.

Commuter Line (Dark Red Line)

This is where it starts getting confusing for newcomers to Bangkok. Next to the ticket machine is a map of all of the urban transit lines in Bangkok.

The rail network is operated by three different companies with three different ticketing systems. If your final destination requires three different trains, then you will need to buy a ticket for each train.

The Commuter Line is operated by the State Railways of Thailand. Tickets are in the form of a token.

Trains run every 15-20 minutes and it is 7 stops to Bang Sue.

Bang Sue Grand Station (Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal)

To add some extra confusion to your travels, Bang Sue Grand Station was renamed Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal when it was officially opened in 2023. Unfortunately, they didn’t think this through, so the Commuter and MRT stations still have signage as Bang Sue Grand Station.

[Sign at Bang Sue MRT to Bang Sue Grand Station.]

Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal to Bang Sue MRT

Once you arrive at Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, there are signs at the Commuter Line exits that direct you to the MRT Blue Line under the station. This is the only metro line that connects to the station, so there is no chance of getting confused.

The most confusing thing at Bang Sue is the signs for the Airport Rail Link. This is not the same as the Commuter Line that goes to Don Muang. In the future there will be an Airport Rail Link that connects Don Muang to Suvarnabhumi via Bang Sue, so they have made these signs in preparation.

The only airport train is the Dark Red Line to Rangsit. This is clearly marked around the station, so look for the signs for the Commuter Rail to Rangsit if you are going to Don Muang.

The MRT has its own ticketing system, so once again you need another ticket. Tickets are either token (like the commuter line), or you can use a visa card to pay at the gate. There is also a stored value card you can buy at the ticket office, which is useful if you intend to use the MRT frequently.

MRT to BTS

The MRT crosses paths with the BTS (Skytrain) at four places, so check your map to see where is the best place to transfer. There are no integrated transfers between the MRT and BTS, so you have to leave the station, go outside, and enter the other station.

[“Interchange” from Mo Chit BTS to Chatuchak Park MRT.]

Ticket costs

Getting the train to and from Don Muang is a cheap way to travel. I took the train from Phrom Phong on Sukhumvit Road to Don Muang in March 2023, and this was the cost breakdown:

BTS Phrom Phong to Mo Chit: 47 THB
MRT Mo Chit to Bang Sue: 19 THB
SRT Bang Sue to Don Muang: 33 THB
TOTAL: 99 THB

Here are the tickets I used. Bangkok is still waiting for a unified ticketed system that can be used on all trains.

[Three separate tickets to get the train from Don Muang to Sukhumvit Road.]

A bus or taxi from Don Muang

Depending on where you are going, a bus or taxi might be a better option. I know this is a sacrilegious thing for a train nerd to say, but that is the current reality of urban rail transit in Bangkok.

If you are going to Khao San Road, then there is no way you can get the train. There is an airport bus that goes direct to Khao San Road for 50 THB.

There are 4 different routes for the airport bus.

There is also the LimoBus that goes to Khao San Road, Phayathai (BTS) and Silom (MRT and BTS). On the one hand, you might get stuck in traffic, but on the other hand, there is no transferring between stations with baggage.

Taxi

There is an official taxi area at the airport where you get a voucher to book a taxi. The last time I took a taxi from the airport to Sukhumvit Road, it cost about 500 THB (including tollway fees).

Read more about urban rail transit systems.

Pattaya is a seaside city on the east side of the Bay of Bangkok. Even though Pattaya is only 155 km from Bangkok by train, it’s not well served by rail transport.

Here is how to get from Bangkok to Pattaya by train.

Bangkok to Pattaya by train

There is one train a day in either direction and an extra train service on the weekend. Trains from Bangkok depart from the old Hua Lamphong Railway Station, and not the new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. The destination of both trains is Ban Plu Ta Luang.

[Map of Bangkok to Pattaya by train.]

Ordinary Train

There is one “Ordinary Train” a day from Bangkok to Ban Plu Ta Luang. These trains stop at every station, which makes them slower.

Train 283
Departs Bangkok: 6.55
Arrives Pattaya: 10.35
Travel Time: 3h 40m

Train 284
Departs Pataya: 14.21
Arrives Bangkok: 18.15
Travel Time: 3h 54m

This service is a single class, soft bench seats with fans and open windows for cooling. There are squat and seated toilets onboard, and no food or drinks are sold onboard. Vendors may walk through early on in the trip.

[Ordinary train to Pattaya.]

Tickets are sold on the day of travel, and the ticket costs 31 baht.

There is no assigned seating, but departing from Bangkok you will get a seat. The train fills up along the way as it acts as a commuter railway for the Greater Bangkok area.

Express Train

[Express train to Ban Plu Ta Luang.]

There is an extra express train that runs on Saturday and Sunday. This train is all 2nd class with reclining seats in air-conditioned carriages.

Train 997
Departs Bangkok: 6.45
Arrives Pattaya: 9.14
Travel Time: 2h 29m

Train 998
Departs Pataya: 16.26
Arrives Bangkok: 18.55
Travel Time: 2h 29m

This train departs Bangkok 10 minutes before the ordinary train, so make sure you are on the correct train.

[Ordinary (left) and Express (right) to Ban Plu Ta Luang at Hua Lamphong.]

Tickets can be booked in advance for this train, and it is advised to book before travel.

Book Bangkok to Pattaya train tickets.

How to get from Pattaya Station to the city

Pattaya Station is outside the city centre, so you will need transport from the station. There are songthaews (local minibus) at the station that go to points in the city centre. Show one of the drivers your hotel booking to find the right vehicle. A ride to Central Pattaya (the shopping mall in the central beach area) is 50 baht.

There is also a list showing how much a taxi costs to the main points in the city, so there is no need to worry about haggling.

Is it worth getting the train to Pattaya?

As is often the case in Thailand, the train is slower than the bus. That said, it is a much more pleasant experience than getting a bus (and especially more pleasant than the minivans).

[Passing the traffic at Ratchaprarop in Bangkok.]

The other problem with the train to Pattaya is that it’s only once a day (and twice on the weekend). There is no morning train from Pattaya to Bangkok, so you have to get the bus back for morning returns.

I got the bus from the North Pattaya Bus Station to Ekkamai Station in Bangkok. The big government bus cost 131 baht and took 2h 20m.

This will change in the future with the high-speed railway that will link it to Bangkok and three airports. There will be frequent trains throughout the day that will take you from Bangkok to Pattaya in under an hour.

Further reading

Here is my Pattaya trip report from 2019.

Search for hotels in Pattaya and the guide on where to stay in Pattaya.

This train travel article is part of the Southeast Asia train travel series.

Khao San Road is the famous backpacker street of Bangkok. This road and surrounding streets is the budget travel hub of Southeast Asia. In normal times it is a spectacle like no other place in the world.

When the Covid-19 virus reduced travel to a trickle in March 2020, Thailand closed its borders to international travel. With a heavy reliance on international travel, the tourism businesses of Khao San Road were always going to struggle.

I returned to Thailand in December 2021, a month after the international lockout was lifted. I knew that the main tourist places were going to be hard hit, but nothing could prepare me for the devastation of the backpacker area of Bangkok.

Khao San Road before 2020

I first visited Khao San Road in 2005. As per The Yellow Bible’s recommendation, I got the shuttle bus from Don Muang Airport to Khao San Road. This was my first time in Southeast Asia (I had just come from Cambodia and Vietnam) so I had never seen so many backpackers congregating in one place.

[Khao San Rd in 2005.]

In those days you would just turn up and look around for a room without making a booking. I returned to Khao San Road over the years when I was passing through Bangkok on the way to somewhere else.

[Khao San Road in 2011.]

On each return, it got harder to just arrive and look for a room. I turned up one night at 10 pm after a long international flight and I spent an hour looking for a room. From then on I booked accommodation in advance.

Eventually, I stopped staying here as I tend to stay in the Sukhumvit area or Ari, but I would still drop by if I were in the old city area.

I don’t drink and I am averse to noisy bars, so I don’t have much business being in KSR. I enjoyed the experience in my early backpacking days, and it is a useful travel hub and base for exploring the old city area of Bangkok. You hear the occasional expat that poo-poo’s KSR, making derogatory remarks about backpackers. But I love the whole spectacle of it, and I always say to imagine if this street was in your home city. You would never see this in Australia (for example).

[Khao San Road getting an industrial-strength hosing down after another night.]

Khao San Road after 2020

I don’t know how many times I’ve walked down Khao San Road, but in all those times I’ve never seen it as quiet as this. I had read reports of it being a graveyard, and if you have been in the boom times it felt like a ghost town now.

With Bangkok being a major air hub, these streets were always buzzing with activity at all hours of the day. There were some days I walked down the street and I had to fight my way through the crowd. It was so strange to come back and see the absolute desolation.

Most of the businesses on the road were closed.

It is hard times when even the 7-Elevens are closed.

McDonalds was also closed.

Susie Walking Street is usually a busy shortcut to Rambuttri Alley.

A sign of the pandemic times.

For Sale signs are a common sight.

Some of the street vendors were back, but business is still slow.

There used to be food vendors all along the street, now there were just a few who have returned so far.

Hand sanitiser and social distancing – welcome to the “new normal”.

In October 2019 the government had announced that it was going to repave Khao San Road, and it was finished in August 2020. There is an improved drainage system and bollards that create a wider walking area along the shop fronts. Now all it needs is tourists.

The police station at the end of Khao San Road has been demolished. Perhaps they ran out of things to do with no drunken backpackers to look over.

Rambuttri

When people say Khao San Road, it is often used to refer the backpacker area in general, which includes Rambuttri Alley. Rambuttri is split in two, with one section running parallel to Khao San Road, and another section wrapping around a temple complex. This is a quieter tree-lined street but with the same backpacker vibes. After my first visit to Khao San Road, I realised that Rambuttri was my preferred street to stay in.

[Rambuttri before the pandemic.]

After walking Khao San Road I went over to the Rambuttri Alley section near the temple, and things were just as bad there.

This sign that was posted in March 2020 says it all. I wouldn’t have guessed in that crazy month that I would be there 21 months later looking at the same sign.

These restaurants used to be open all day and were always busy.

A boarded-up guesthouse.

Another guesthouse closed down with corrugated metal sheets. I don’t know if this was all they had available to board up, or if it was being prepared for demolition. There were other buildings in the alley there were being demolished.

The barbed-wire barricading added to the grim feeling of the street.

New My House Guest House was open, and there were a few hardy backpackers congregating here.

To celebrate this stalwart of the backpacker scene being open, I stopped for a banana pancake. I figured I should make an offering to the backpacker gods to let them know that the trail has reopened.

The comeback starts here

Khao San Road started showing signs of life in the early evening when some of the bars opened up. I went back later in the night but there was a vaccination checkpoint and I didn’t have a vaccination app.

[Khao San Rd covid checkpoint.]

I have been vaccinated in two different countries (and boostered in Thailand), so I have certificates from each country without being represented on a single app. I couldn’t be bothered carrying around my certificates so I didn’t go back at night.

Rambuttri Road was open without a checkpoint, and at the entrance to the road there were a couple of bars and restaurants leading the comeback. I went by and there was a group of locals having a party. Domestic patrons may be the way forward for the time being.

Deeper into Rambuttri Road the closed shops looked even more depressing and spooky at night.

On the other section of Rambuttri (parallel to KSR), the end that has a night market was doing ok (also sustained by local visitors).

I was here about 6 weeks after Thailand relaxed its entry rules, so it was still early days in the recovery. It will take years though to get back to 2019 levels of tourism.

Will these pandemic times mark the end of an era of Khao San Road? Will it become like Soi Ngam Dupli, which was the original Bangkok backpacker street before the scene moved to KSR. Soi Ngam Dupli is now a shadow of its former self, with only a few shops that hint that it used to be a backpacker haunt. Or perhaps there will be smaller backpacker areas spread out across the city. There is a cluster of hostels that have congregated in Phayathai (near the Airport Rail Link), and another hostel area in Silom.

I hope that Khao San Road is able to make a comeback. Even though I rarely stay there anymore, I like knowing that it’s there.