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A visa run to Singapore

Written by James Clark on January 21, 2012 · 7 Comments

I am spending a few months in Thailand on a basic tourist visa, which means that after one month I have to leave and reenter to start a new visa. The previous month I went to Myanmar for 3 weeks. This time around I had not planned for a new country visit, so a short trip was ok for me.

In Thailand there is the option of doing a minivan day trip to the nearest border, but I prefer to make a mini break out of this situation, so I do one of my favourite travel pastimes and start playing with the destination maps on airline websites.

AirAsia flights from Bangkok
[AirAsia destinations from Bangkok]

In the end I chose Singapore on the strength of a super cheap flight sale on Tiger Airways on top of a craving for good Indian food.

Indian would have to be in my top 5 foods, so I tend to find myself in Little India every day I am in Singapore. Little India is also an interesting place to wander, though everytime I go there the sound of loud Bollywood music and the smell of spices makes me want to go back to India proper.

[Masala Dosa feast in Little India - Singapore]

While walking around Singapore I realised that there is a serious lack of bubble tea merchants in Chiang Mai. Bubble tea is everywhere here so I was happy to be back on the bubbles (if you can say such a thing?)

[Things I love about Asia: Bubble tea and peace sign photo posing.]

Another reason I came to Singapore was to meet up with one of my friends who lives here. I found out after booking my flight that he was working in London this month. No problem. I got on the Facebook and Twitter to see if anyone was going to be around, and I saw that Dan from Tropical MBA was passing through Singapore as well.

Dan is a fellow online business guy who I have been following online for a while, so we arranged to meet up for lunch and a cafe/internet session.

[Dan @Tropicalmba - all smiles while he checks his Paypal account]

Travel is large chunk of my business life, and one of the joys of travel for me is to be able to meet up with like minded people that I may not have met otherwise. I realised afterwards that I had way more fun hanging out in a cafe with wifi (and a chain cafe at that!) talking shop and swapping ideas than I would have had walking around seeing the sites.

So I now go back to Chiang Mai, ready to tackle some online projects with my wanderlust sated for another month. After that I will be heading off to my first new country of the year: the Philippines.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: drink, food, singapore, visa, work remotely

A highlights of Turkish food tour in Istanbul

Written by James Clark on October 26, 2011 · 6 Comments

While in Istanbul I caught up with a travel blogger I met in Sumatra. I was on a bus from Lake Toba to Bukittinggi, and as the bus was leaving the ticket man pointed to me and said “you two both the same, sit next to him”.

It turned out that my new found seat mate writes one of the biggest travel blogs in Turkey and was on an epic round the world trip, and he had plenty of interesting tales to tell over the course of the 16 hour bus ride. I said when I eventually get to Istanbul I will look him up.

Basar gave me a little tour of the Galata neighbourhood before taking me on a highlights of Turkish food tour. I really can’t recall the last time I ate so much.

We started off with kokoreç (think Haggis in a bun, which is not as disgusting as it sounds), followed by some mussels.

[A kokoreç van in Istanbul]

Next was Meze, a popular meal of the Middle East, sort of like tapas. Bas,ar (who I suspect might be my long lost Turkish grand mother) kept ordering plates until I couldn’t fit any more. Pleas to stop were fell on deaf ears, as piles of delicious food kept arriving.

[Basar with meze.]

I like to abide the rule that there is always room for desert, but I was questioning my ability to fit anything else in after this. I carried on, and we finished the night with dondurma, the sticky ice cream of Turkey. The place we went serves extra sticky dondurma, which is eaten with a knife and fork.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: food, istanbul, turkey

Turkey To Thailand – Kind of going home

Written by James Clark on October 19, 2011 · 1 Comment

Where I’m At: Istanbul, Turkey – 19 October 2011

Istanbul brings me to the end of my European travels for 2011. In addition to completing my annual visit to London, and attending to an offline business in Budapest, I also got to travel around Romania and Turkey.

[James and a camel in Cappadocia, Turkey]

From Istanbul I will be flying back to Thailand, which completes a round the world trip of sorts. I was in Thailand in March and since then I have I have been to Malaysia, India, Australia, USA, Canada, Mexico, Iceland, UK, Hungary, Romania, and Turkey. I can say that I’m ready to put some months in one place for a while.

Thailand

In September last year I left the house in Melbourne I was renting for nine years. I wasn’t there half of the time but it was a great base to leave stuff as I work and travel around the world. I have been without a fixed address since that time, and given that I can work anywhere I’m not compelled to go back to Melbourne yet. For now Southeast Asia is my hub of choice, and Thailand is calling my name once again. After a brief stay in Bangkok I will be heading to Chiang Mai, which is something like a second home. Along with catching up on some much neglected projects I will get to see my fellow location independent working friends who are also based there.

Of course there will be side trips planned in that time to places I have yet to visit, including Myanmar and the Philippines.

See you in Thailand!

Categories: Where I'm At - Tags: food, istanbul, thailand, turkey

Phat Phuc Noodle Bar – A little bit of Saigon in London

Written by James Clark on September 3, 2011 · 1 Comment

One of the many things I love about London is how practically all of the nations of the world are represented when it comes to food. I always like to look at the menus from the countries I have been to and see if I remember the dishes (and compare the prices). Walking down Kings Road in Chelsea a sign caught my attention.

The Phat Phuc Noodle Bar sounds funny in English but the name actually means Happy Buddha. Either way the sign lured me off the Kings Road and into a little open air court yard. My intention was to check out the menu, but smell of the noodles instantly had me seated for second lunch. What really got me though was the noodle bar. Yes there is an actual noodle bar, set up on a mobile stall decorated with Vietnamese and Chinese ornaments.

[Noodle street stall - London style]

I ordered the chicken Phở, which was prepared in front of me, while chatting to the friendly girl behind the bar who was from Northern Thailand.

[Chicken Pho]

The noodles were as good as anything I’ve had outside Southeast Asia, and the unseasonably warm September day added to the occasion (26 degrees – in London!).

At £6.95 that is about 200,000 Dong more than you would pay in Ho Chi Minh City, but I have been back in west long enough now to be over the sticker shock, and I was happy to slurp down some noodles in a street stand environment.

On A Related Note
Speaking of Ho Chi Minh City, the city’s namesake spent time in London when he was in his twenties. There is a plaque on Haymarket in the West End which commemorates the location of the hotel where he once worked.

[Ho Chi Minh Plaque - London]

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: england, food, ho chi minh, ho chi minh city, london, uk, vietnam

Kuala Lumpur – Wrapping up eight months in Asia

Written by James Clark on May 11, 2011 · 9 Comments

After eight months of travel in Asia I find myself back where I started in Kuala Lumpur. What an incredible eight months it has been. Two months in China, a month in India and three months in Thailand, punctuated by many visits to Malaysia, including Borneo for the first time.

KLCC Petronas Towers - KL
[Kuala Lumpur - funny name, cool city.]

There were so many highlights along the way, but I will resist turning this post into a best of (though now would a good excuse to show a picture of a Giant Panda from my visit to Chengdu).

Giant Panda eating bamboo

I kind of had a plan for the eight months, but like all good plans, that went out the window early on. My plan for a year in China was not to be after I couldn’t get a one year tourist visa. From China I was going to spend three months in Borneo. I may end up doing that yet, as this island had me the moment I arrived. In my first week there I had the privilege to attend a local wedding in Sabah, which included getting dressed up in traditional attire. Borneo was that kind of place for me.

[Dusun wedding party - Sabah]

My three months in Borneo was truncated to three weeks as I decided to spend Christmas with people I know in Chiang Mai. That was the biggest surprise of this trip. I didn’t think I would be back in Thailand this time around, but the Travel Gods had other plans. After Christmas I was then lured back by a coffee tour, and the fellowship of working nomads living in Chiang Mai kept me on. Spending some living time in Chiang Mai got me thinking that I could possibly base myself there in the future.

Akha coffee pickers
[With my Chiang Mai coffee dealers from Akha Ama Coffee.]

Now I am back in KL, catching up on some work before going back to Mebourne this week, where I will be returning as a visitor. When I left in September, I left a house I had been living in off and on since 2001. While I have been travelling as a working nomad since 2003, this is the first time I have travelled without a fixed address. With no current abode in Melbourne, this is just a two week visit to see family and friends, and to sort out some business administration.

After Melbourne I will be heading to Hawaii for eight days, which happened to be the first place I went to overseas. From Hawaii I then make my way to Vancouver for the TBEX travel bloggers meetup. I attended TBEX in New York last year and met so many wonderful people that I knew I would have to return. Having the conference in Vancouver was a great selling point as well, a city which I hear nothing but rave reviews for. I will also include Seattle and Portland in this trip. From there, more will be revealed .

So it’s my last week in SE Asia, and I am in KL eating everything I possibly can before I go. I’m going to miss this part of the world.

Tosai Masala - KL
[Tosai Masala and Teh Tarik in KL (H/T to regional food expert Jodi).]

If you are in Melbourne in the next two weeks feel free to contact me.

Categories: Where I'm At - Tags: food, kuala lumpur, malaysia, tbex

Delhi – Something Old, Something New

Written by James Clark on April 6, 2011 · 4 Comments

Location: Delhi – India Date: 6 April 2011

It’s been a while since I have woken up briefly forgetting where I am, which was how I woke up in my first morning in Delhi. Outside there was sound of sweet Indian music (the good stuff, with sitars and tablas). When I opened my eyes, the room was more peculiar than the usual Southeast Asia guesthouse style I have been used to for the last 5 months. I’m in India!

I had so much work to do leading up to this trip that my preparation involved cracking open a guide book for the first time on the flight. I noted the use of the phrase “assault of the senses” more than once in the book (bombardment is popular as well). I’m going to try and refrain from using that well worn cliche, even though it does descibe India so well.

The thing with India is there is something going on everywhere. Take for example this laneway, which was my first daylight introduction to Delhi as I left the guesthouse. There is so much detail everywhere, that I just wanted to keep following the little lanes and to find out more.

[Laneway Shrine - Delhi]

New Delhi.
I started off in New Delhi. With its wide streets and grand government buildings, it is a gentle way to start off in this city. I didn’t plan it that way. I just went in that direction as I thought I would have a better chance of finding a mobile phone shop. I ended up at Gandhi Smriti, a musuem and memorial in the gounds of the building where Gandhi was assassinated. The main house has photos and quotes from throughout his life. From the house you can follow Gandhi’s last footsteps to the place where he was shot.

[Gandhi's Last Steps]

Old Delhi
Old Delhi contains the biggest tourist attractions in Greater Delhi, such as the Red Fort and Jama Masjid. What I like about Old Delhi is the market streets. Crowded roads filled with autorickshaws, horse and man drawn carts, trucks and bikes, all trying to find a place while dodging merchandise spilling out onto the road. This is where the “assault of the senses” phrase would be inserted.

[Old Delhi Spice Market]

Food
I love Indian food, so I am going to have no problem eating my way across India this month. This typical South Indian thali set meal cost 30 Rs ($0.65usd).

[Thali Set Meal]

India For a Month
I fly out of Kolkata in one month, and apart from aiming to visit the Taj Mahal and Varanasi, this trip is a see what happens along the way type of trip. My favourite kind.

Categories: Where I'm At - Tags: delhi, food, india

Penang – My (temporary) island home

Written by James Clark on March 2, 2011 · 9 Comments

Where I’m At: Penang – Malaysia.

Greetings from Penang. I have been here for nearly a month now, staying in the World Heritage City of Georgetown. I have been here several time before on shorter visits, and I always knew I would come back to stay for an extended period. I wanted to spend some time to wander the old streets of Georgetown while getting some work done in a wifi and budget friendly environment.

[Dogs on a Trishaw - Penang]

While I have been here I have been working on this site and I am going to try out a new category: Where I’m At. The plan will be a for a weekly update, reporting from “Where I’m At”. I’m still toying with the idea of calling it Where I’m At Wednesdays, as Wednesdays seems to be my least busy day for scheduled posts on other sites I run. Plus it is cool to have a day in a category name, you know.

Seeing I am just starting this, I’m going to recap my time in Penang, rather than the week that was. I came to Penang with the intention of hunkering down for a month to work on some website projects with as little distraction as possible. In my time here I have had some welcome relief of the work day from visiting friends.

On my second day here I was working away when I noticed a Facebook update from Johnny Jet (yes I can work and check Facebook news at the same time). He posted an update: “On the ferry to Penang”. Hey, I’m in Penang as well! I quickly mesaged him, and half an hour later I was down at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel where I met up with Johnny and Natalie.

[Johnny and Natalie]

For those who don’t know Johnny, he has been putting out a weekly travel newsletter since 1999. I picked up the story around 2000, so I have known him online for ages. Johnny and Natalie were on a quick stop-over on a remarkable train journey, which you can read about in Johnnys weekly newsletter.

Apart from that surprising unscheduled meetup, I have also had scheduled meetups with other friends. Two of my friends I used to work with, in Melbourne way back in 1999, are now living in the region. Paul is in Singapore, and Tasha is in Jakarta. One of our friends of this group was missing, so we took took a photo in honour of his missing in action-ness.
Missing Friend
[Paul, Tasha, (MIA Macman) and James]

During this old work mates reunion I had an overlap of friends visiting from Chaing Mai. While Paul went back to Singapore, Tasha stayed on and met up with Shannon and Paddy, who were here on a Thai visa run. Having already been here for a week, which was a week longer than everyone else, I got to play local tour guide.

Friends in Georgetown
[Maysie, Shannon and Paddy]

Living In Penang
When Johnny was here he was asking me about the cost of living for food and accommodation here. So here is a brief overview. Penang has a worldwide reputation for being a foodies paradise, and I can attest to that. I’ve had to stop myself from falling into the trap of going to my favourite food places, just so I can try out some different dishes.

Some of my staple favourites are:

—Roti Canai—

[Roti Canai and Roti Telur]

Roti Canai (plain) and Roti Telur (with egg) with dahl. What a great start to the day. Haven’t got sick of it yet. This and a coffee is 3.50 MYR (1.16 USD).

—Asam Laksa (Penang Laksa)—

[Asam Laksa]

I abhor hyperbole, so I can’t believe what I am about to say. This is possibly the best laksa I have ever had. I have been back to the same vendor numerous times just to make sure, and each time the laksa is as good as I remember it to be. This laksa is the large bowl with extra fish balls, and it costs 4.5 MYR (about $1.50 USD). This was at the Gurney hawker market, which is a big open air food court by the bay.

—Hainan Chicken Rice—
[Sorry - no photo]

I go to this run down looking shop where all they do is chicken and rice, in the Hainan style. You sit down and they bring it out to you. You don’t order because that is all they have on the menu. Brilliant. Chicken and rice is 4 MYR.

—Indian—

[South Indian Thali]

Sometimes I think I shouldn’t have Indian twice a day. The indian food is so good here though, I can’t help myself.

This South Indian Vegetarian Thali is 5 MYR ($1.66 USD). A mango lassi is 3.50 MYR ($1.16 USD). If you go the the banana leaf restaurants (where the food is served on a banana leaf), the same meal is about 4 MYR, and they tend to keep topping up your meal until you tell them to stop.

—Cendol—
Cendol

For dessert, have a go of Cendol, which is popular throughout Southeast Asia. It looks weird, but it is alot of sweetness on a bed of shaved ice, which is welcome in this heat.

—Accommodation—
For accommodation, I wanted to stay in Georgetown as I knew I could get cheap accommodation with good wi-fi. I have stayed in Georgetown previously, in a typical flophouse style place, and even that had wi-fi. I am now staying at a guesthouse with ensuite bathroom, wi-fi and a desk in the room for 40 MYR a night ($13 USD).

So this is my last week in Penang. I’m really quite comfortable here and could easily stay on, but I have to make an unexpected return to Thailand next week. Until then…

Categories: Where I'm At - Tags: accommodation, food, georgetown, malaysia, penang, yours truly

The famous peanut soup of Xiamen, China

Written by James Clark on November 3, 2010 · 1 Comment

*** To my friends with peanut allergies, sorry about this one. Best you look away. ***

If you find yourself in Xiamen in Southwest China then make your way to the Ze He Huang Peanut Soup Shop.

[Ze He Huang Peanut Soup Shop]

I was told this shop was famous for the peanut soup, and when I went it was standing room only.

This grey milky broth looks more like dish water than soup. Like alot of food in China, it tastes better than it looks.

The soup is sweet and and peanuts melt in your mouth – there is no crunchiness to them at all. The bowl is quite small (especially if you are used to American sized portions) so it is hard to resist having just one.

At 2 Yuan (about 30c USD) it’s also one of the best value snacks around.

[Peanut Soup]

This peanut soup was so good I made a detour to the shop on the way to the airport for one last serving.

Observations on peanut soup

Why isn’t this sold in America? In a land where everything has peanuts in it, this would be a runaway hit in the USA.

It was refreshing to note that there was no “this peanut soup contains traces of nuts” disclaimer on the bowl. You might think I’m being ridiculous, but how many nut based products do you see now with that warning?

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: china, food, xiamen

Eating Your Way Around Penang

Written by James Clark on January 23, 2010 · 1 Comment

Penang is well known for being a foodies paradise, and it is one of those destinations where people go just to eat. If you don’t know your Hokkien Mee from your Wan Tan Mee (that would be me), there is a great brochure that lists the most popular dishes of the Island. It gives a description of each meal and a map of where to find them around the George Town area. Pick up the brochure from your guesthouse or the tourism office.

- Penang Food Guide -

I have been to Penang twice before so this time I was only passing through on the way to Langkawi. This short stay meant that I only had three possible eating opportunities (without being gluttonous). I had a morning ferry to catch so I didn’t think I was going to get a good breakfast either.

I found out on the way to the ferry terminal that there are 24 hour Indian restaurants here. To be able to get a curry 24 hours a day must surely be the pinnacle of civilisation.

- Indian Restaurant – Open 24 Hours -

My favourite breakfast dish is Roti Canai. When I am travelling to Malaysia I usually start drooling about a day before I arrive, knowing that I am going to get a good roti canai. A plain roti is about RM0.90 (25 cents USD) and there are different varieties with egg, cheese and meat fillings.

Sometimes restaurants will have a pile of premade roti, but the best ones are made to order, so your roti arrives steaming hot and melt in the mouth good.

Roti Canai With Curry Dips – Breakfast of Champions

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: food, georgetown, malaysia, penang

Adelaide's 'pie floater'

Written by James Clark on July 31, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Adelaide is not only famous for being the only place where iced coffee outsells Coca-Cola, it is also known for the pie floater.

A pie floater is a meat pie in a plate of pea soup or mushy peas. It’s very English in its origin and apparently used to be popular across Australia, but has now found its spiritual home in Adelaide.

Adelaide's 'Pie Floater'

A native Adelaidean told me about the iconic status of this dish so I had to try it for myself. It was already 11 at night, but Adelaide is blessed with a few 24 hour bakeries that serve this dish.

My pie was submerged rather than floating, and the flourish of tomato sauce adds to the comical presentation of this meal. Despite the visual it’s actually not bad. If you like meat pies and peas you will like the pie floater.