Music, business and coffee culture in Seattle

Seattle has been on my go to list since before I started travelling internationally. Yet even after eight previous visits to the USA I had still not made it to the Pacific Northwest. So after attending TBEX in Vancouver, I finally got the chance to visit.

It’s not that Seattle has any sites in particular that I wanted to see, and it is certainly not famous for its fair weather. What made me curious about Seattle is the music, business and coffee culture.

Seattle Sound

In the early nineties most of the music I was listening to was from Seattle. The Grunge scene (AKA the Seattle Sound) featured Soundgarden, Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Alice in Chains and the Screaming Trees, to name but a few. These bands were heavily rotated on my CD player at the time (what is CD? I hear the kiddies ask). “What are they putting in the water in Seattle?” That was a common question asked in the music media of the day. I wanted to find out for myself, but the party was over by the time I had first arrived in the US.

Business

Seattle companies have featured prominently in my working life. My experience of working overseas is bookended by Seattle companies. My first job in London was packing boxes at Amazon.com. Then in Dublin I worked for Microsoft (from Redmond, close enough), which turned out to be my last full time job working for someone else.

Good Weather For Cafes

One thing I noticed about Seattleites is they are very apologetic about the weather to visitors. If you listen to a local you would think it is a rain swept city every day of the year. I arrived on a clear sunny afternoon, which apparently gave me a false impression of the city climate. For the next three days it was business as usual – grey skies and drizzle. I was happy to have some cool grey days for a while though. I have been in the tropics most of the year, so any chance to wear clothes without sweating was a welcome change.

Does this weather incubate a good coffee culture? There are some parallels between Seattle and Melbourne’s weather, which is also mad about coffee. I love a good cafe, so naturally I have been curious about Seattle’s cafe culture. Now while we are talking about coffee and Seattle, we can’t get around not talking about Starbucks, which was founded in Seattle. If you have had the standard Starbucks brew in the USA, it is usually the Pike Place blend. Pike Place is the the home of the oldest Starbucks (the second Starbucks store, as the first one moved). Even though there was a long list of other cafes that needed to be tried out, it seemed fitting to at least have a Pike Place blend at Pike Place.

Starbucks Original Logo
[Starbucks Original Logo]

The Pike Place store has the original brown and white Mermaid logo in homage of the original store, featuring a much racier version of the mermaid than you see today. Ahh the 70′s. Too bad Starbucks didn’t revise this logo with the logo upgrade.

If you really wanted to complete the Seattle Starbucks pilgrimage, you could visit the world headquarters. While I was in Seattle my laptop power supply died, so I had to find a electronics store fast. I ended up at an office supplies store in the redeveloped docks area (SoDo). Next door happened to be the Starbucks world headquarters. Nothing to see here, unless you are visiting every Starbucks in the world.

Starbucks Center
[Starbucks Center - The Starbucks world headquarters]

Beyond Starbucks, I found a few cafes that served real coffee in a cozy environment. In the Capitol Hill neighborhood I stumbled upon Stumptown. They serve coffee sourced from individial farms. They are part of what is called the third wave coffee movement. What I didn’t know at the time is that this cafe is part of a chain. Perhaps the coolest cafe chain on the planet. Stumptown have branches in Seattle, Portland (their home base), and New York.

Stumptown Seattle
[Stumptown Seattle]

Closer to where I was staying I found Zeitgeist Cafe.

Zeitgeist Cafe
[Zeitgeist Cafe]

Finding a good cafe near my place of abode tends to make me lazy. I stopped looking for more cafes after I found Zeitgeist. I’m okay with that, as it feels like I will be back in Seattle again. Next time I visit I’m hoping I will be a guest of another business giant of Seattle to see their aircraft factory (hint hint Boeing, my contact details are can be found from the top Nav Bar).

Coffee of the day: Varanasi – India

Varanasi has always been high on my list of places to visit in India. Before coming here I knew that Varanasi was famous for the ghats (steps) that lead to the Ganges river. Varanasi is well known for the funeral pyres where devout Hindu’s consider it good fortune if, God willing, they die here in old age.

What I didn’t know was that Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world. Behind the ghats there is a fascinating old town with a tangle of alleys and laneways. Most of the cities I have been to in India have been gridded out cities with wide streets. Here in the old town there are many little laneways which not even an autorickshaw can fit down (yay!). It is still India though, crowded and chaotic as ever. The traffic is limited to pedestrians, bikes and…cows. Being the holy creatures that they are, cows are free to roam in India where ever they please. And with Varanasi being the one of the most sacred of Hindu locations, there are more urban cows here than I have seen anywhere else.

It was down one of these lanes that I found my coffee of the day. This particular cafe use stove top espresso machines as their coffee makers. I usually make my coffee at home like this (when I have a home) so it was like having a home made coffee. I caught this curious cow wandering by while waiting for my brew.

Coffeeshop cow - Varanasi

Visiting a coffee farm in Thailand

Coffee Journey – A tour for those who love coffee

I can’t remember the last time I went on a tour that went more than a day. It is possible that I have never been on such a tour (really, I can’t remember). So I find it remarkable that on my stay in Chiang Mai I was talked into going on a three day tour. Well I wasn’t really talked into it. The conversation went something like this:

Friend: “Hey James, you like coffee. You should go on the Coffee Journey”.
Me: “Ok”.

The combination of words coffee + journey had me hooked straight away. I signed up without asking what would be involved. If my friend had said, “Hey James, would you like to go away for three days with a bunch of people you don’t know with no internet and no hot water”, I may not have signed up. I’m glad I did.

The Coffee Journey is a tour put on by the owner of Akha Ama Coffee, a cafe I frequent regularly in Chiang Mai. Lee runs the cafe in Chiang Mai and the coffee is grown at his village in far Northern Thailand.

Lee at Akha Ama Coffee - Chiang Mai
[Lee at Akha Ama Coffee - Chiang Mai]

With free wi-fi and possibly the best coffee in Chiang Mai, the Akha Ama cafe is a haven for remote workers, in a city full of remote workers.

Coffee Journey

The tour is currently running monthly, leaving Chiang Mai on a Friday morning and returning on sunday afternoon. The ride to the village is about 5 hours from Chiang Mai. Once at the village we were invited into Lee’s family home where he talked about village life and its people. This region is home to the Akha people (Akha Ama means Akha Mother).

Traditional dress of Akha woman
[Traditional dress of Akha woman]

We ate dinner in his home (thanks Ama), and were billeted out to homes in the village.

Akha Village - Chiang Mai Province
[Remote Akha village, high in the hills]

Coffee Time

Saturday morning. Breakfast, and finally a coffee!

Akha Ama Coffee for breakfast
[Coffee on a coffee farm. Life is good.]

To the coffee plantation

On the saturday we walked an hour to the coffee plantation, where we got to see the full cycle of a coffee plant, from seedling to a mature tree. I was expecting a plantation type set up, with rows of coffee trees. Instead the coffee trees are mixed with larger trees and other fruit trees, which gives natural shade to the coffee. In addition to running this business, Lee has also been teaching the local farmers the benefits of using compost as fertilizer, rather than using chemical fertilizer. The coffee is organic, though it is not marketed as organic as it costs thousands of Euros to have official accreditation as an organic product.

Walking to the coffee plantation
[Walking to the coffee plantation. What a happy group of people we got.]

After lunch we got the hands on experience of picking the coffee ourselves. This is quite an art form as you have have to pick the right coffee cherries (the dark red one and not the light red or green cherries). Care is also needed to not break the stem from the branch. Talk about pressure. To make it even more stressful, I had a seven year old girl who designated herself as union leader, and was inspecting all of my pickings for green cherries.

Basket of coffee cherries
[Bountiful harvest of beautiful coffee]

In addition to picking the right colour cherry and not breaking any stems, the trees were located on a very steep hillside. There were falls and cherry spillage among us amateur pickers.

Coffee pickers
[Coffee pickers]

Processing the coffee

On the last morning we were shown how the picked cherries are processed. First the fruit is stripped from the bean and then the bad beans are removed.

Coffee cherry remover
[Removing the fruit from the bean]

From there the beans are soaked for 2 to 3 days in water. After that they are hand washed. All of them! The unwashed beans are quite slippery, so after hand washing the beans are removed of this slippery film.

Soaking coffee beans
[Soaking the coffee]

From here the beans are then sun dried for a couple of weeks, depending on the weather. Once dried the beans are bagged and stored for six months. The beans are then machine processed to remove the outer husk, then finally ready for roasting.

Drying the coffee
[Drying the coffee]

Talk about a process. I have a new appreciation for coffee (on top of the appreciation I already have for coffee). I will never look at a coffee the same way again. If you love coffee I would highly recommend this tour. For details on the tour check out the Akha Ama Facebook page.

Akha coffee pickers
[With my Chiang Mai coffee dealer and his sister.]

Happy birthday dear Melbourne…

…Happy birthday to you!

The 30th of August is Melbourne Day, and today Melbourne was 175 years old.

Melbourne Day Birthday Cake
[Melbourne Day Birthday Cake]

Although Melbourne Day is an official day, it’s not an official holiday, so it’s not celebrated with gusto. Most people don’t know about it actually. If you were to pick a true Melbourne Day it would probably be Melbourne Cup day. It’s the horse race that stops the nation, and we get a day off for that one.

Melbourne Day Flags
[Melbourne Day Flags and St Pauls Cathedral]

There were various celebrations on around the city, and the one thing I wanted to see was the replica of the Tall Ship Enterprize. Well it’s not very tall, but it is still special. This was the ship that brought European settlers on the northern bank of the Yarra River on the 30th of August, 1835.

Enterprize
[Enterprize at Melbourne Docklands]

While free admission to the Enterprize was excellent, the freebie of the day award would surely go to the Melbourne Day Coffee Cups, a useful and oh so appropriate Melbourne themed giveaway.

Melbourne Day Coffee Cups
[Melbourne Day Coffee Cups]

Bulgaria's Black Sea Coast

The Black sea Coast of Bulgaria has been a budget holiday favourite for decades. First with the countries behind the Iron Curtain, and now with the countries from the cold north. Along this stretch of coast is a good cross section of Europe with styling urban cities, cheapo package holiday resorts, old fishing villages and ancient ruins.

Varna

I arrived in Varna with the intention of moving on after a day and ended up spending a few days here. It is a good sized city with stately old buildings that are a bit run down. Varna is a port city that is close to the beach, so it has a part work,part play feel to it. Varna is a candidate city for the European Capital of Culture in 2019, so you may hear more about it in the future.

Drama Theatre - Varna
Varna’s Drama Theatre

Market - Varna
Market – Varna

Most people who fly to Varna are coming for the beach resorts. There are two popular resorts nearby called Golden Sands and Sunny Beach. I have seen those names many times in British travel agent windows, so I knew that they were going to be package holiday beaches, but I wanted to check it out for myself.

I was intending to go to Golden Sands but it was a cold and drizzly day – not a good beach day – so I opted to spend my day hiding from the rain in cafes instead.

Espresso in Varna
Espresso Time – Varna.

Sunny Beach

With a name like Sunny Beach it has to be dodgy, but I kind of liked it actually. Sunny Beach is all resort hotels and seaside tackiness, but it doesn’t pretend to be anything else. As an Australian I find European beach resorts fascinating. I mean look at this beach!

Sunny Beach - Bulgaria
Sunny Beach – Bulgaria

There is not a spare piece of beach for all the umbrellas. The sand itself is very good quality, but I don’t come to Europe for the beaches. I come for the old towns.

Nessebar
Next to Sunny Beach is Nessebar. You can walk right along Sunny Beach until you get to a peninsula where Nessebar is situated. This old fishing town is a World Heritage listed site and is filled with old ruins and lovely cobbled side streets. The crowds are quite scary when you first arrive, but as you wander deeper into the town the crowds thin out.

Christ Pantocrator Nessebar
Christ Pantocrator Church – Nessebar

Burgas

South of Sunny Beach and Nessebar is the port city of Burgas. There is another airport here with low cost flights around Europe, and it is also a handy place to base yourself for visiting villages along the coast.

Alexandrovska Str - Burgas
Along the main shopping street of Burgas.

Sozopol

South of Burgas is the ancient town of Sozopol, which like Nessebar is filled with old ruins and winding little streets. It is also surrounded by some decent beaches that aren’t as crowded as the resort towns.

Sozopol
Looking to the beach at Sozopol.

Getting to the Black Sea Coast

Low cost airlines and European charter flights fly to Varna and Burgas. Trains are also a good option, with both cities being connected to Sofia.

Coffee of the day: South Beach, Miami – USA

Coffee of the day: South Beach, Miami - USA

As much as I love coffee my system can’t handle the bucket sized brewed coffee that is served in the USA. So I was happy to discover that there is this Cuban coffee drinking culture in Miami, where quality over quantity reigns. All over Miami you can find Cuban run places that serve espresso and café con leche (Spanish: “coffee with milk”).

The cafes I went to are little bars or hole-in-the-wall type places. You wont find any fancy cups here telling you that you are about to enjoy this beverage. I found the café con leche to have the right ratio of coffee to milk.

Further Reading: Cuban coffee 101

CouchSurfing Review

CouchSurfing.org While planning my trip to the United States I discovered that hostels aren’t available in every big city, so finding budget accommodation was proving to be difficult. I had previously signed up to CouchSurfing.org but I had not used it, so it seemed like a perfect time to try it out.

Finding A Couch To Surf

Once you create a profile (I’m at nomadicnotes) you can select if you are going to be a host or surfer.

The site is easy to use. Go to “Couch Surf” and select your city and couchsurfing requirements. CouchSurfing is the biggest site of its kind so there are plenty of profiles in the system.

My CouchSurfing Experience

I had my first couchsurfing experience in Boston. I sent out a few emails to prospective hosts and I got an email back promptly from another CouchSurfing newbie who was looking to host.

My host met me at the metro station and walked me back to the house. She lives in a nice old house with a another housemate, and I got a comfortable couch that was built for sleeping on.


My Couch.

After dropping my bags off at the house we went for lunch and a tour of the neighbourhood. My host lives in Jamaica Plain, which is a bohemian enclave in Boston which I had never heard of, and probably would not have visited if I hadn’t happened to have been couch surfing there.

I had two days in Boston and I was given a list of recommended things to see and places to eat. My host deducted from my profile that I like coffee, so she made sure there was coffee in the house for me (she is a tea drinker).


Stovetop coffee from the thoughtful host.

On my last night we had a home made dinner with her boyfriend and his sister.

It seems I could not have found a better host for my first couchsurfing experience. I know that not every couchsurfing experience turns out well so I got off to a good start.

CouchSurfing Thoughts

CouchSurfing is an excellent way to meet local people and see other parts of the city from a locals perspective.

CouchSurfing is also great for saving money on accommodation. Finding availability and suitable hosts seems to be the main drawback for me. I had beginners luck getting a great host first time. I since tried finding a couch in other cities and had no luck at all. Therefore I wouldn’t budget a trip thinking that would get couches every where I went. It would probably work better if you have a flexible schedule and plan in advance.

Overall though my experience with CouchSurfing was positive and I will definitely be using surfing couches again in the future.

Have you tried couchsurfing yet?

Coffee of the day: Gili Meno – Indonesia

Coffee of the day: Gili Meno - Indonesia

Kopi Lombok on Gili Meno, Indonesia. The Gili Islands are off the coast of Lombok island so they serve Lombok coffee. The coffee is unfiltered so you get some grinds clinging to the side, but most of it settles and it is a good brew.

I like the coffee naming system in Indonesia. So far I have enjoyed Kopi Sumatra, Kopi Java (which could technically be Kopi Kopi or Java Java), Kopi Bali and now Kopi Lombok. You have to say this when you order to make sure you are not served instant coffee.

I want to know how many more “Kopi X” varieties there are in Indonesia? Kopi Sulawesi would be a certainty. How many more out of the 17000 islands of Indonesia?

Coffee of the day: Luang Prabang – Laos

It didn’t occur to me before I arrived that Laos has great coffee. You don’t really see it marketed well outside of Laos. It’s quite common to see the Sumatran or even Sulawesi blend at a Starbucks, but Lao blend, I don’t recall. Anyway the coffee here is great. Local beans brewed in a coffee sock and the usual sweetened condensed milk as is the go around this part of the world.

Coffee of the day: Luang Prabang - Laos
Coffee Lao by the Mekong River – Luang Prabang

The Federal Association Of Globe Trotters

I found a cafe in Belgrade that has perhaps the best name in the history of cafes: The Federal Association Of Globe Trotters.

I had read about the cafe and I went purely for the alluring name. I otherwise never would have found this place on my wanders. It is downstairs in a basement and the only bit of advertising out the front is above the door buzzer.

The Federal Association Of Globe Trotters

The Federal Association Of Globe Trotters

It is furnished with an eclectic variety of furniture and art work, much of it donated by friends of the place over the years. I fell in love with it immediately. If I had a home, this is how I would furnish it.

At night it transforms into a music club, which doesn’t suit my sitting in cafes writing kind of style, so I went in the early afternoon when it wasn’t too busy.

They have wireless internet but I didn’t have my laptop with me, so I used the time to write some notes. I would have left the place sooner but happened to be playing Dead Can Dance CD’s and I was just enjoying the place too much.

The Federal Association Of Globe Trotters Coffee

The Federal Association Of Globe Trotters Coffee

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