Coffee of the day – Portland, OR – USA

Stumptown Coffee - Portland OR USA
[Stumptown Coffee - Portland - USA]

While going through my photos for this weeks travel photo I realised I didn’t have a photo of a compelling Portland landmark. Portland is more of a place to be than a place to see. It’s an industrial city that gradually lost its way when the tradional industry moved out. Then the cool kids moved in, so to speak, and it became one of the places to be in the US.

With the cool kids came the third wave coffee movement, with Stumptown Coffee leading the way in Portland. I’m all for cities that care about coffee, so I knew I was going to like Portland.

When you get to this city you will notice that the locals are always complaining – or at least apologetic – about the weather, which is famous for its cool and drizzly climate. No need for apologies, Portlanders – your miserable days are ideal working in nice cafes kind of days for me. In fact you should market it as that, especially for people like me who tend to live in the tropics and might actually like a break from the heat and sunburn.

Music, business and coffee culture in Seattle

Seattle has been on my go to list since before I started travelling internationally. Yet even after eight previous visits to the USA I had still not made it to the Pacific Northwest. So after attending TBEX in Vancouver, I finally got the chance to visit.

It’s not that Seattle has any sites in particular that I wanted to see, and it is certainly not famous for its fair weather. What made me curious about Seattle is the music, business and coffee culture.

Seattle Sound

In the early nineties most of the music I was listening to was from Seattle. The Grunge scene (AKA the Seattle Sound) featured Soundgarden, Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Alice in Chains and the Screaming Trees, to name but a few. These bands were heavily rotated on my CD player at the time (what is CD? I hear the kiddies ask). “What are they putting in the water in Seattle?” That was a common question asked in the music media of the day. I wanted to find out for myself, but the party was over by the time I had first arrived in the US.

Business

Seattle companies have featured prominently in my working life. My experience of working overseas is bookended by Seattle companies. My first job in London was packing boxes at Amazon.com. Then in Dublin I worked for Microsoft (from Redmond, close enough), which turned out to be my last full time job working for someone else.

Good Weather For Cafes

One thing I noticed about Seattleites is they are very apologetic about the weather to visitors. If you listen to a local you would think it is a rain swept city every day of the year. I arrived on a clear sunny afternoon, which apparently gave me a false impression of the city climate. For the next three days it was business as usual – grey skies and drizzle. I was happy to have some cool grey days for a while though. I have been in the tropics most of the year, so any chance to wear clothes without sweating was a welcome change.

Does this weather incubate a good coffee culture? There are some parallels between Seattle and Melbourne’s weather, which is also mad about coffee. I love a good cafe, so naturally I have been curious about Seattle’s cafe culture. Now while we are talking about coffee and Seattle, we can’t get around not talking about Starbucks, which was founded in Seattle. If you have had the standard Starbucks brew in the USA, it is usually the Pike Place blend. Pike Place is the the home of the oldest Starbucks (the second Starbucks store, as the first one moved). Even though there was a long list of other cafes that needed to be tried out, it seemed fitting to at least have a Pike Place blend at Pike Place.

Starbucks Original Logo
[Starbucks Original Logo]

The Pike Place store has the original brown and white Mermaid logo in homage of the original store, featuring a much racier version of the mermaid than you see today. Ahh the 70′s. Too bad Starbucks didn’t revise this logo with the logo upgrade.

If you really wanted to complete the Seattle Starbucks pilgrimage, you could visit the world headquarters. While I was in Seattle my laptop power supply died, so I had to find a electronics store fast. I ended up at an office supplies store in the redeveloped docks area (SoDo). Next door happened to be the Starbucks world headquarters. Nothing to see here, unless you are visiting every Starbucks in the world.

Starbucks Center
[Starbucks Center - The Starbucks world headquarters]

Beyond Starbucks, I found a few cafes that served real coffee in a cozy environment. In the Capitol Hill neighborhood I stumbled upon Stumptown. They serve coffee sourced from individial farms. They are part of what is called the third wave coffee movement. What I didn’t know at the time is that this cafe is part of a chain. Perhaps the coolest cafe chain on the planet. Stumptown have branches in Seattle, Portland (their home base), and New York.

Stumptown Seattle
[Stumptown Seattle]

Closer to where I was staying I found Zeitgeist Cafe.

Zeitgeist Cafe
[Zeitgeist Cafe]

Finding a good cafe near my place of abode tends to make me lazy. I stopped looking for more cafes after I found Zeitgeist. I’m okay with that, as it feels like I will be back in Seattle again. Next time I visit I’m hoping I will be a guest of another business giant of Seattle to see their aircraft factory (hint hint Boeing, my contact details are can be found from the top Nav Bar).

Coffee of the day: Varanasi – India

Varanasi has always been high on my list of places to visit in India. Before coming here I knew that Varanasi was famous for the ghats (steps) that lead to the Ganges river. Varanasi is well known for the funeral pyres where devout Hindu’s consider it good fortune if, God willing, they die here in old age.

What I didn’t know was that Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world. Behind the ghats there is a fascinating old town with a tangle of alleys and laneways. Most of the cities I have been to in India have been gridded out cities with wide streets. Here in the old town there are many little laneways which not even an autorickshaw can fit down (yay!). It is still India though, crowded and chaotic as ever. The traffic is limited to pedestrians, bikes and…cows. Being the holy creatures that they are, cows are free to roam in India where ever they please. And with Varanasi being the one of the most sacred of Hindu locations, there are more urban cows here than I have seen anywhere else.

It was down one of these lanes that I found my coffee of the day. This particular cafe use stove top espresso machines as their coffee makers. I usually make my coffee at home like this (when I have a home) so it was like having a home made coffee. I caught this curious cow wandering by while waiting for my brew.

Coffeeshop cow - Varanasi

Chiang Mai: Cafe wonderland

Having secured a visa for India, I have been happy to stay put in Chiang Mai, get some hours in for work and hang out with the large remote workers community that calls Chiang Mai home.

If there is one thing I love about Chiang Mai, it is the cafes. There are cafes everywhere, which as a caffeine fiend from Melbourne, it is probably why I am feeling at home here (that, and the $1 (approx) sticky rice and mango carts). From the side of the road street vendors to big chains, and everything in between. Most cafes have free wi-fi as standard. It’s a remote workers paradise I tell you.

On fridays my location independent associates meet up for lunch at Free Bird Cafe, which is a non-profit organization helping Burmese refugees.

When I first saw the building I knew I was going to love this place. Look at this building, it is so warm and inviting.

Freebird Cafe
[Freebird Cafe]

If you are heading to Chiang Mai, drop by and say hello.

Coffee of the day: The Troubadour, London – UK

When I’m in London I usually stay around the Earl’s Court/Gloucester Rd area. It’s in well to do leafy West London and has good transport connections. It is also home to one of my favourite cafe’s – the Troubadour.

Troubadour Cafe - London

Troubadour Cafe - London

The Troubadour has been around since 1954 and it was a famous music venue in the 60′s. Musicians who have played there include Bob Dylan, Paul Simon, Sammy Davis jnr, Jimi Hendrix and Led Zeppelin.

The cafe is worth visiting just to see the collection of intruments hanging from the ceiling. For me, I like coming here knowing that Led Zeppelin once graced these rooms.

Maveli Cafe – Thiruvananthapuram

In Kerala there is a cafe and restaurant chain called the Indian Coffee House. The Indian coffee house is completely owned and managed by its employees.

In Thiruvananthapuram I found this Indian Coffee House branch (operated by Maveli Cafe) near the main train station.

Maveli Cafe Central Station Road
[Maveli Cafe Central Station Road]

This cafe is worth visiting for the building alone. It is cylindrical shaped and there is no floors as such, just a corkscrew ramp that wraps itself around a central shaft where the kitchen is and waiters enter to and from.

Indian Coffee House Run By Maveli Cafe
[Indian Coffee House Run By Maveli Cafe]

When you enter you just keep walking up the ramp until you find an empty stall.

Maveli Cafe Stalls
[Maveli Cafe Stalls]

Shantaram at Leopold Cafe, Mumbai – India

After reading Shantaram I had to visit Leopold Cafe. The cafe is located on Colaba Causeway, close to the many hotels in the area. I’ve been there every day as it is centrally located and it is a good place to meet up with fellow travellers at the end of the day.

Shantaram on sale at Leopold Cafe
[Shantaram on sale at Leopold Cafe]

Nuts about Nutella, Bologna – Italy

Spend longer than 5 minutes in Italy and you will realise that Italians are nuts about Nutella. Here is a cafe dedicated to the chocolatey spread in Bologna.

Nutelleria - Bologna
[Nutelleria - Bologna]

Cafe Hawelka – Vienna

Cafe Hawelka - Vienna
[Cafe Hawelka - Vienna]

This is a classic old school cafe in Vienna. An ideal place to spend a drizzly day.