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The temples of Bagan – Myanmar

Written by James Clark on January 5, 2012 · 7 Comments

After visiting the incredible Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon I was wondering if anything could top that in Myanmar? It didn’t take long to find out, with my next stop at Bagan.

[Temples on the Bagan Plain]

Ancient Bagan

Bagan is the site of a ruined city in central Myanmar that was a powerful capital nearly thousand years ago. At its peak there were over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas, and stupas in the city. Today there are “only” just over 2000 pagodas remaining.

The historical area covers 42 sq km on a plain by the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. Looking out over the plain it is hard to imagine that this was once a great city. It made me wonder what would Bangkok look like if it was abandoned with only the Wats remaining. Or Rome with only churches left standing. The first photo you see of the temples on the plain, in the green space between the temples there was a city, with shops, houses and administrative buildings. Ohh to have a time machine to see what this looked like.

What makes Bagan so remarkable is that there is always a temple in viewing distance. Everywhere you look there is always a temple somewhere.

[Temples scattered everywhere]

[A cluster of small temples]

Within the historical area there a number of towns, with New Bagan, Naung U, and Old Bagan having accommodation available. Most of the budget places are around Naung U, which is where the bus from Yangon terminates. I got the bus from Yangon at 5pm which arrived at the ridiculous hour of 3am.

[Entrance to Shwe Zigon Zedi at Naung U]

There is not much to do in these towns, which is just as well as it took a few days of solid cycling to see the highlights. The roads between the main towns are paved and flat, but between the towns and into the plains many of the roads are dirt (and sometimes sand), which was test on my fitness.

[Bicycle outside temple]

In and around the temples

With so many temples scatttered everywhere it wouldn’t be possible to visit all of them. So upon passing each one I would ask myself if I should stop and have a look or keep cycling along? Many of the temples are still used as a place of worship, even some that look like nothing more than a ruin.

[Standing Buddha inside Ananda Phaya Pagoda]

[Water drain on Dhamma Ya Zi Ka Pagoda]

[Mahabodhi Temple - a replica of the Mahabodhi Temple in India]

Getting Around

For getting around the temples the choices are limited. There are no tuk tuk drivers for hire here like there is at Angkor in Cambodia, and the hiring of motorbikes to foreigners is illegal (boo!). The most popular way to get around is by bicycle. The guesthouses have bicycles for hire for around $1 a day. Most of them are of the rickety cheap Chinese variety. Be sure to test it out before cycling away.

[Sandy roads make for hard cycling]

If you are not up for the workout on the sandy roads and intense heat, there are private tours in minivans. horse and cart tours are are also available. If you are interested, a driver will soon find you at whatever town you are staying in.

[Horse and cart at Bagan]

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: bagan, blogsherpa, buddha, buddhism, myanmar-burma, temple

Shwedagon Pagoda – The cure for temple fatigue

Written by James Clark on December 19, 2011 · 10 Comments

[Shwedagon Pagoda (Paya), Yangon - Myanmar]

Visitors to Europe would be familiar with the phenomenon of being cathedralled out. This is when you visit lots of cathedrals in a short space of time, to the point that you tire of even the grandest of cathedrals. The same happens with the temples of Asia. To be templed out. Having spent much time in Thailand I have experienced a dose of wat fatigue myself. In the mysterious land of Myanmar there is a temple that will awaken anyone from the deepest of temple fatigue. Introducing the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon.

The first hint for me that this is not your every day temple was while looking out the window flying into Yangon. There was a brown haze firmly stuck over the city, yet the golden stupa shone brilliantly in the morning light.

The Pagoda is a few kilometres (or miles, as they still use here) outside the city centre and it dominates the skyline. As I walked closer I realised that what I was seeing is one of the great temples of Asia; up there with Angkor Wat and Borobudur.

[To the Shwedagon Pagoda]

How old is the Shwedagon Pagoda?

The original temple is believed to have over 2500 years old. It was built to enshrine eight of the Buddha’s hairs, which were given to two merchant brothers by the Lord Buddha himself. Over the years the shrine was added on, destroyed by earthquakes and wars, and rebuilt and improved. Like the Ship of Theseus, there has been so many replacement parts over the years that what you see today is not original.

At over 2500 years old the Shwedagon Pagoda is the oldest Buddhist temple in the world. Yes, even older than the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya, India, where the Buddha attained enlightenment.

Speaking of Bodhgaya, within the temple complex there is a banyan tree that is descended from the Mahabodhi Temple, the same tree that the Buddha sat under.

[Banyan tree descended from the Mahabodhi Temple]

How much gold is at the Shwedagon Pagoda?

[The golden stupa]

Another question that doesn’t come with a straight answer. Trying to find out how much gold is here is an exercise in futility. An online search will give you answers from 9 to 60 tonnes, and that number is constantly changing. There is always worshippers applying gold leaf to something, and in the case when I was there, workmen adding another layer of gold to the Zedi.

[Reguilding the stupa. Don't ask me how that scaffolding works!]

Inside the Temple Complex

I easily spent a few hours wandering around the little temples within the complex. It is best to come in the late afternoon to avoid the fierce heat and to see the temple as the sun is settting.

[Temples within the temple complex]

[Prayer ritual]

[Green Guard]

So there it is, one of the great temples of the world. While I have been shaken from my temple fatigue, I pity the poor temple I visit next. This is a hard act to follow.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, buddha, buddhism, myanmar-burma, temple, yangon

In Pictures: The Blue Lagoon – Iceland

Written by James Clark on September 21, 2011 · 7 Comments

[Blue Lagoon]

I have a natural reistance to anything that is said to be a must see. When visitng Iceland you will hear this said about the Blue Lagoon. There is no escaping it. There are brochures and advertising everywhere, and the thought of not going makes you feel like you haven’t been to Iceland until you have been to the Blue Lagoon. I went – of course – and after visiting I am going to join the chorus and say, if you are ever in Iceland you must visit the Blue Lagoon.

The Blue Lagoon is in Southwest Iceland, not far from the international airport. The most striking feature of this part of Iceland is the undulating lava plains that make up this region. Upon arrival at the spa you walk through a path carved through the lava plain.

[Blue Lagoon entrance through lava field]

The lagoon water is a natural mix of sea and fresh water and contains minerals, silica and algae which gives the water its distinct blue colour.

[Blue Lagoon in the lava field]

While the water is natural, the lagoon is man made, with the water having first passed through a nearby geothermal power station, which uses the water to produce clean energy.

[Blue Lagoon Power Plant]

Around the lagoon there are buckets of silica mud which you can help yourself to and apply to your face.

[Blue Lagoon bathrobes]

When you enter the spa you get an electronic bracelet, which is the key to your locker as well as a water proof wallet. You can use it to buy drinks at the lagoon bar and the restaurant.

[Blue Lagoon Bar]

The Blue Lagoon is just 20 minutes away from the the Keflavík International Airport and 40 minutes away from Reykjavik. There are well planned tours that run from the airport, so if you are on a layover with a few hours to spare you can take a trip out to the Lagoon between flights.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, blue lagoon, iceland

Cost of living in Playa del Carmen – Living in Mexico for $850 a month

Written by James Clark on August 4, 2011 · 52 Comments

One of the most common questions I get asked is how I can afford my lifestyle of travel around the world. First I need to explain that I am working while travelling, so it’s not like I’m living the life of leisure.

I have also been asked if I am the dot com millionaire James H. Clark. I am not (though I’m working on that one ).

It’s been a while since I have lived somewhere for longer than a month (outside of Melbourne), so having spent a month in Playa del Carmen I have tallied up what the cost of living in Mexico is like.

[Playa del Carmen]

This is my expense breakdown for July 2011 in Playa del Carmen, converted into USD:

Rent	$290
Eating Out	$300
Groceries	$60
Coffee	$90
Transport	$35
Sundries	$75
Total	$850

For $850 I have been living in comfort and eating like a king for way less than a grand a month. This is in US dollars as well – it sounds even better if I convert it into my home currency: $790 AUD.

Rent

This is the biggest variable by far in Playa del Carmen, and if you don’t know what you are doing you could end up paying Manhattan prices. If you turn up at a real estate agent or book through a holiday rental site they will try and charge you $100 a night for the type of place we stayed at.

I was fortuntate in that my house mate had boots on the ground before I got here and negotiated a sweet deal for our apartment. Our accommodation is a modern complex with swimming pool and came to a grand total of $290USD per month per person – less than $10 per day. (Gas and electricity is extra, inlcuded in the sundries items).

[Apartment Kitchen]

The apartment is spacious and comes with internet and a laundry room, so that is two other expenses taken care of. Oh yeah, did I tell you it comes with a swimming pool?

[Swimming pool at the apartment]

Food

Having an apartment meant that I could have breakfast everyday at home, and I would occasionally make my own lunch. Other than that I ate out every day for lunch and dinner. If I wanted to I’m sure I could have made this budget come down to $650 rather than $850, but why? I mean c’mon, I’m in Mexico. I’m not going to miss out on a chance to have Mexican food as often as I can while I am here.

[Tacos Al Pastor washed down with a Horchata]

The food here has been a surprise for me. I have always loved Mexican food, but there was a lingering concern that Mexican food made in America might have somehow have been better than Mexican food in Mexico. What was I thinking?! I’m happy to report that Mexican food in Mexico is better than I could have hoped for.

Of course it’s not Mexican food every night. There are plenty of other eating options around town if, for some reason, you tire of Mexican. For example we found a Sushi place that have a 2 for 1 deal on sushi rolls every Wednesday. The rolls are surprisingly good considering the lack of Japanese representation in the city.

Fruit juice is a big part of my diet as well, and in Mexico they serve it by the bucket. Well, the one litre styrofoam cup (yes, styrofoam is still used here). A 1L pine/orange juice, no sugar, goes for around $3.00.

[Juice prices in Pesos]

Groceries
This is the tally from the supermarket across the road. This covered mostly breakfast and fruit, as well as household consumables. While that seems like a small amount for a month, have a look at the price of bananas.

Banana prices in Mexico

Bananas for $9.90 MXN (0.84c USD) per Kilo. Sadly the bananas are not Tabasco flavoured, but from the state of Tabasco.

My Daily Vice – Coffee

Another personal variable here. My expenses are low as I don’t drink or smoke, so you will need to consider that in your own budget. Included in my budget is a two cup a day coffee habit. I can live with that. I started out making my own coffee at the apartment, but it’s just not the same as sitting in a cafe and doing my work there. Unfortunately there isn’t a great variety of cafes in Playa that are work friendly, but at least they know who I am by now.

Transport

Playa is a reasonably compact city so there is no need to get the bus or a taxi anywhere. Our apartment is walking distance from everything we need. A one minute walk to the supermarket, a ten minute walk to the beach and all the cafes and restaurants in between. We were lucky enough to have a car on loan to us, so that helped out with the road trips around the region, but even without a car the buses are reasonably priced.

Other Cost Considerations
Of course your mileage will vary according to accommodation selection and lifestyle choices. Where you eat is also an important factor. Almost all of my meals were at the local places in the back streets behind the main tourist street. They may not look as fancy as the tourist places, but you can be sure you are getting a better deal and authentic food. Same goes for the juice. While that juice sign isn’t visually appealling, you can see they are putting nothing but fruit into the juicer. Who cares what the shop looks like.

This list is also a cost of living budget, not a travel budget. If I was travelling around Mexico for a month this would be a different outcome with higher accommodation and transport expenses. Apart from a few road trips around the region, this stay in Playa was with the intention to get some work done, enjoy the beach, and eat as much Mexican food as possible. Mission accomplished.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, cost of living, mexico, playa del carmen

Chichen Itza is wonderful, but should it be a new 7 wonder of the world?

Written by James Clark on July 27, 2011 · 23 Comments

Being based in Playa del Carmen has been ideal for visiting the highlights of the Yucatan Peninsula. One sight that has been high on my visit list is Chichen Itza. Not counting Luxor Las Vegas or the Louvre Pyramid, this was the first time I have seen a pyramid.

The Chichen Itza archaeological site contains numerous ruins built by the Maya civilization around 1000 years ago. The central building of the site is the remarkable Kukulcán Pyramid, or El Castillo (The Castle).

James at the Kukulcán Pyramid - Chichen Itza
[My first pyramid - the Kukulcán Pyramid at Chichen Itza]

Chichen Itza is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in 2007 it was voted as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.

[New 7 Wonders of the World]

After visiting Chihen Itza a reader asked me what my favourite temple in the world is, and without hesitation I said Borobudur in Java. This got me thinking, why is Chichen Itza a wonder over Borobudur? Nothing against Chichen Itza, as it really is wonderful and worth the visit, but Borobudur is a far superior monument. Borobudur is the biggest Buddhist temple in the world, yet it remains relatively unknowm. The temple features intricate carvings on most of its exterior and it is crowned with 72 stupas containing a Buddha image. And unlike Chichen Itza, you can walk on Borobudur.

[Borobudur - The biggest Buddhist temple in the world]

I had a look at the list of New 7 Wonders finalists and I was gobsmacked to see that Borobudur wasn’t even on the short list. The New 7 Wonders was selected by a global poll, which gave it about as much credibility as the Eurovision voting system. Indonesia is terrible at promoting its own wonders outside of Bali, and it seems that the 230 Million Indonesians weren’t as organized to vote as the 110 million Mexicans. I remember when this poll came out in 2007. I can’t remember if I voted, but if I did I probably voted for the Sydney Opera House out of patriotic duty.

So, do you agree that Chichen Itza – or any of the other winners – should be on the list?

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, borobudur, buddha, building, chichen itza, indonesia, java, mexico, temple

Seeking Nirvana in Bodhgaya – Where the Buddha attained enlightenment

Written by James Clark on May 2, 2011 · 9 Comments

India has three of the four most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world, with the fourth being in Nepal. That is an impressive heritage for a country that counts less than one percent of its population as Buddhist (though ask any business man and most would take 1% of billion any time). Out of those four sites, Bodhgaya is the most important. This is the place where Buddha attained Enlightenment.

The Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya marks the place where Siddhārtha Gautama sat under a Bodhi tree for 49 days of meditation. Not content with having just attained enlightenment, the Buddha then spent a week in front of the tree, gazing with unblinking eyes in gratitude.

[Mahabodhi Temple]

Behind the main temple is Bodhi tree where Buddha sat. Actually it is not the original tree but a descendent of. The original was cut down, but not before a seed was taken to Sri Lanka, which was then able to later supply a replacement tree.

For some reason I had visions of an open garden and the tree just there for all to enjoy. I envisaged that I was going to give the tree a big hug and have some of that nirvana rub off upon me. Of course the reality was different, and the tree is behind a high enclosure. Fair enough. With approximately 350 million Buddhists worldwide, imagine if they all came and gave the tree a hug – it would be worn out in no time.

And don’t even think of trying to take a leaf as a souvenir. All the branches are well above reaching/jumping level . While I didn’t count, I’m sure there was less than 350 million leaves on the tree (though there were some hawkers out the front who will try and sell you a leaf from a Bodhi tree, perhaps the original one ). Anyway, there is no such thing as instant enlightenment. I knew that.

[Bodhi Tree at Mahabodhi Temple]

It is pretty impressive to stand by this tree and think of the history. Over 2500 years ago a man sat under this tree as a Prince, and left as the Supreme Buddha.

Bodhgaya is a small city of around 30000 people. Around the city there are Buddhist temples and monasteries representing all the major Buddhist countries of the world. I was happy to see the unmistakable architectural style of a Thai Buddhist Wat.

[Thai Monastery - Bodhgaya]

While Bodhgaya is a small city, it has an airport with services to Thailand, Sri Lanka and Bhutan, which are mostly seasonal for pilgrimage travel. The easiest way to get there is to get the train to the nearby Gaya, which is on the Dehli to Kolkata line.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, bodhgaya, india, religion, tree

Ornamental street signs of Thailand

Written by James Clark on January 26, 2011 · 8 Comments

I am a fan of making functional items beautiful. From fire hydrants in Tokyo to seats in the south of France, I pay attention to small details that adds a bit of beauty to the world.

In Thailand many cities across the nation decorate their street signs with icons associated with the city. Here are some that I have seen over the years in my travels in Thailand.

[Patong Beach]

Patong Beach in Phuket with a dolphin street sign.

[Krabi Town]

Krabi Town with a sword wielding elephant. Of course.

[Maeklong]

Maeklong is best known as the place where the train goes through a market. The city logo happens to be a drum, so sadly no trains decorate the street signs here.

[Chiang Mai]

Chiang Mai is a city full of wats, and the signs here look like they try and fit as many temples on the top of the sign as possible.

[Chiang Rai]

Chiang Rai, not to be confused with Chiang Mai, have broken with the Thai standard black and blue signs by going gold. Maybe they got tired of being confused with Chiang Mai.

[Chiang Khong]

Chiang Khong is a border town sitting on the Mekong opposite Laos. Their sign features the soon to be extinct Irrawaddy dolphin.

[Ubon Ratchathani]

Ubon Ratchathani in the south-east of the Isan region is best known for its annual Candle Festival.

[Songkhla]

Songkhla in the deep south of Thailand is famous for the Golden Mermaid, and she is the town logo as well.

[Pattaya]

If you had of asked me what I thought would be on the Pattaya street sign, I would have guessed a go-go girl pole dancing, but no, Pattaya have honoured is maritime heritage with a ship’s wheel.

[Mahachai]

Nothing fancy here. I’ve just added this one to illustrate what an every day street sign looks like in Thailand.

These are just places I have been to, or remembered to take photos of. I know there are more. If you have a photo of a ornamental street sign in Thailand, send it to me and I will add it to the list.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, chiang khong, chiang mai, chiang rai, form and function, koh phuket, krabi, maeklong, mahachai, patong beach, pattaya, signs, songkhla, thailand, ubon ratchathani

In Pictures: Pulau Pangkor – Malaysia

Written by James Clark on September 14, 2010 · 7 Comments

Pulau Pangkor (Pangkor Island) is on the West Coast of Peninsula Malaysia. It’s close enough to Kuala Lumpur to make it an accessable stopover destination. This was how I ended up here. I had a week in KL enroute to China. The beaches of the East Coast would have left me rushing to get there and back, so Pangkor was the best option.

- Pasir Bogak Beach: Pulau Pangkor -

Beaches

When people talk about the beaches of Malaysia, it’s the islands of the Peninsula East Coast that rate the highest. If that is the case then I have got to get over there one day. I mean have a look at this “average” West Coast beach.

- Teluk Nipah Beach -

Pangkor is half a day from KL, so it can get busy on weekends and public holidays. This was a public holiday crowd.

- Pasir Bogak Beach Crowd -

Wildlife

Pangkor’s most famous wildlife residents are the Hornbill Birds. It’s quite common to see them swooshing around, they they make a great squawk, which is what I want to hear in a tropical paradise. Some of the guesthouse owners feed them so it is not uncommon to see them sitting around populated areas.

- Hornbills -

Monitor Lizards are common as well.

- Monitor Lizard -

The island interior is a jungle, and no jungle in Asia is complete without monkeys. Fortunately you don’t have to go into the jungle to find them.

- Monkeys -

The island also has beach goats. Of course.

- Beach Goats -

Accommodation

Most of the budget/backpacker style places are around Teluk Nipah, which happens to have the best beach. It’s not a big scene at Teluk Nipah, as most backpackers head to the Perhentian Islands or Thailand before coming here.

There is a good range of accommodation options in Pangkor – from budget guesthouses to resort style hotels. As I was just passing through the region I wanted to stay in an honest-to-goodness Southeast Asian guesthouse. One with an outside bathroom and cold water shower, and Geckos on the ceiling. I found what I was looking for at Nazri Nipah.

- A-Frame Accommodation -

Stopover

If you have already been to the islands and beaches of Thailand then you aren’t going to see anything new here. Most visitors here are day tripping locals. I met some British travellers here who were holed up on Pangkor for a week while their Visa to India was being processed in KL. If you only have a few days in Malaysia or you waiting around KL and you want to rest your heels in some sand, then Pangkor is a ideal option.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: animals, beach, blogsherpa, island, malaysia, pangkor

Apocalypse Wow! Judgement day frescoes at the Rila Monastery – Bulgaria

Written by James Clark on July 10, 2010 · 5 Comments

The Rila Monastery in Bulgaria is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and perhaps the most well known structure in the country. When you enter the monastery it just looks like an old fort and it doesn’t prepare you for the view that is inside.

The monastery is famous for its frescoes by Bulgarian artist Zahari Zograf. The external porch walls of the main church is covered in colourful religious imagery.

Much of the subject matter is of apocalyptic last judgement images. Bat-winged demons and gruesome death scenes are prominent. There are so many little details, so spending some time looking over every detail of each panel reveals some pretty bizarre interpretations of what the apocalypse would look like.

The Rila Monastery is an easy day trip from Sofia. There are tours that go there but the cheapest way is to get a local bus which will take you straight there in 2 and a half hours.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: blogsherpa, bulgaria, church, frescoes, rila monastery, unesco

Notes on Miami: The Capital of the Americas

Written by James Clark on June 5, 2010 · 7 Comments

Going To Miami

It wasn’t my original plan to visit Miami on this trip to the USA. I was planning to road trip from Chicago back to Newport, RI, where I have based myself. It turns out that there is hardly a hostel between Chicago and Newport, so my accommodation budget was facing a blowout of epic proportions.

Instead I found a cheap flight to Miami – where budget accommodation is plentiful – so this detour was a no-brainer. As soon as I got off the plane and sucked in a breath of that sub-tropical air I knew I had made the right choice.

South Beach

Rows of neon lit Art Deco hotels is the world famous image of Miami, and they can be found on South Beach. I knew Miami was famous for Art Deco, but I thought it might have been a dozen or so key buildings that survived the wrecker’s ball. South Beach in fact has over 700 Art Deco buildings, making it the undisputed Art Deco capital of the world.

Collins Ave Art Deco Hotels – South Beach Miami

South Beach seems to be the place to stay in Miami. I stayed the the Jazz on South Beach Hostel, which is one of the best hostels I have stayed at in the US. There are plenty of accommodation options in South Beach and it is easy to walk around. If you tire of walking there is a 25 cent local bus that runs a loop around South Beach. Then of course there is the beach, which is of the white sand and warm water variety.

Downtown Miami

South Beach is part of the Barrier Island of Miami Beach, and downtown Miami is on the mainland.

View Larger Map

The downtown area looks as though it’s going through an urban renewal. It is mostly made up of new apartment blocks and the financial district, and there is not much in the way of shops there yet.

Freedom Tower – One of the few remaining old buildings of Downtown Miami.

Biscayne Bay

Of course you don’t come to Miami for its downtown. It the beaches and waterways that make Miami famous.

Separating Miami and Miami Beach is Biscayne Bay. This waterway is sprinkled with man made islands and super yachts. I took a cruise of Biscayne Bay, which takes you past the homes of the rich and famous and gives you a better feel for the geography of Miami.

Al Capone’s Former Mansion.

This is the Miami I had in my mind’s eye. Perhaps my perception of Miami was influenced by Will Smith.

¿Hablas inglés?

One thing you will notice about Miami is that Spanish is spoken everywhere. The Organization of American States may be headquartered in Washington, DC, but surely Miami is the true capital of the Americas. All of the nations of the Western Hemisphere are represented here. Walking around and listening to the accents from the region made me want to head south. I don’t have time to do that on this trip, but I will come back to Miami again to use it as a hub for Caribbean and Central American travels. If you can’t travel to Latin America, Miami is the next best thing.

Trip Notes: Thanks to Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau and Island Queen Cruises.

Categories: Travel Blog - Tags: beach, blogsherpa, florida, miami, usa