Coffee Of The Day: El Nido, Palawan, Philippines

It’s been a while since I’ve done a coffee of the day, so I’m making a comeback post in style.

Coffee Of The Day: El Nido, Palawan, Philippines
[Coffee Of The Day: El Nido, Palawan, Philippines]

I arrived in El Nido after a cramped, knee busting, 6 hour mini van ride from Puerto Princesa. After being uncanned from our sardine tin I headed straight to The Alternative guesthouse to unwind from the days travels. I had been recommended this lodging by Jodi at legalnomads.com, who worked here for two months. I had only planned to to be here for two days, but after seeing the view from this lounge pod my plans soon changed. First order of the day, after ordering a coffee, was to change my flight. I’m staying here for a while.

Part of the appeal of my job is to find interesting office space to work while I travel around the world. I often find myself working on a bed in a guesthouse, so I like to get out to a cafe at least once a day to break things up. I’m not a sit on the beach and do nothing type of guy, but I do like walking along the beach, and even better to have a cafe with a beach view. In this case the beach is underneath my table, with the soothing sounds of the sea lapping the base of the building.

This little nest above the sea might be a little too comfortable though. I know that working on a beanbag is not conducive to getting work done. I have personally tested this out with many summers plonked on a beanbag with a laptop while watching the cricket. Yes, I don’t think this will ever be called a productivity pod. I will leave any heavy duty work I need to do for when I am without distraction at a table. For now though this will make an ideal place to reply to emails and do my daily web reading.

The Alternative Guesthouse - El Nido, Philippines
[Yours Truly, hard at work at The Alternative Guesthouse - El Nido, Philippines]

New Country Day: The Philippines

Country: The Philippines
Date: 21 February 2012

It's more fun in The Philippines
[People keep telling me it's more fun in The Philippines]

Greetings from The Philippines, my first new country for 2012. Considering how much time I spend in Southeast Asia I can’t believe it has taken me so long to get here. My friends who have travelled to The Philippines have mostly come back raving about it, so I am looking forward to being on the road again and exploring new lands.

Even though I had booked this trip several months earlier, I have not made a plan for this trip. Already this year I have three conferences that I am booked for, meaning I have had to schedule my travels as far in advance as November. This has left little room for spur of the moment travel. It seems to me that the Philippines is the ideal place to not make a plan.

Part of the problem of planning for travel in The Philippines is its geography. It is a nation made up of 7107 islands (I’ll take their word for it). While many of those islands are merely uninhabited islets, that still leaves approximately one craptonne worth of islands that are just asking to be visited. For an illustration of this problem (oh yes, what a dilemma) check out the domestic flights that are available out of Manila from the countries largest low cost airline, Cebu Pacific.

Cebu Pacific - Domestic flights from Manila
[Domestic flights from Manila with Cebu Pacific]

Where to Go in The Philippines?

With slow chicken buses and ferries timetables to deal with I would rather let the adventure dictate where I go. I have booked my first three nights in Manila, then after that my travels are open.

So, dear reader, I am open to your suggestions. Have you been to The Philippines? What is is your favourite place here that you would recommend?

Loi Krathong Parade, Chiang Mai – Thailand

Loi Krathong Parade, Chiang Mai - Thailand

Loi Krathong is a Thai Buddhist festival that is celebrated in November, depending on the lunar cycle. The festival also occurs around the same time as Yi Peng in Northern Thailand, so if you want to experience a sensory overload of Thai culture, head up to Chiang Mai around the end of October.

Travel Photos: Chiang Mai Photo Gallery

In Pictures: A day on Inle Lake – Myanmar

My trip to Myanmar (Burma) was already off to a flying start, with highlights such as the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon and cycling around the temples of Bagan. I had heard much of these places so I was prepared to be wowed (which I was). What I didn’t figure on was how much of a highlight Inle Lake would be on my trip to Myanmar.

Fishermen beating the water for fish - Inle Lake
[Fishermen on Inle Lake]

Inle Lake is in Shan State and has an approximate surface area of 116 km2. While it’s impressive in size, what makes Inle all the more remarkable is the life on the lake. I had read a friend’s account of life on Inle, which gave me a general idea of what to expect, but seeing it is something else. I remember thinking during my time on the lake, I am somewhere truly exotic, which is something I haven’t thought for a long time.

Before arriving here I had imagined myself taking long walks along the lake front, like Westlake in Hangzhou, China. Inle Lake doesn’t really have a shore line. It is more of a marshy edge that seemingly has no beginning or end, so walking around it isn’t a practical option.

A canal in Inle Lake
[A canal in Inle Lake]

The best way to see the lake is to hire a boat and driver for the day, which you will find plenty of in the market town of Nyaungshwe. A typical boat can hold five passengers and is run on an inboard diesel motor that looks like it belongs on a tractor. If you are by yourself add your name to a boat list at your guesthouse so you can split the cost of renting a boat.

Handy tip: if you don’t want your ears to be ringing by the end of the day don’t sit closest to the motor.

Inle Lake motor boat driver
[Inle Lake motor boat driver]

Leg rowing fisherman of Inle Lake

The town of Nyaungshwe is a few kilometres from the lake itself. After cruising down the main canal we arrived at the wide expanse of Inle lake. Once on the lake it didn’t take long before seeing the iconic leg rowing fishermen.

Leg rowing fishermen - Inle Lake
[Leg rowing fisherman of Inle Lake]

The method of leg rowing is unique to the Intha people of Inle Lake. The fishermen row this way so they can stand and navigate through the reeds.

Boys with fish net - Inle Lake
[Boys with fish net]

Somehow they manage to balance on one leg on the bow of the boat with an oar wrapped around the other leg while handling a net, and they make it look easy.

Inle Lake leg rowers
[Inle Lake leg rowers]

Life on the lake

In addition to settlements along the lake front, there also numerous villages, temples and markets on the lake. There is a whole every day working economy going on out there, hence the need for visiting with a boat.


[Typical water village]


[Utilities supplied to the lake]


[Village food market]


[Not your every day post office]


[And not your every day commute]


[Hpaung Daw U Pagoda - an important Buddhist site in Myanmar, located in the Lake]


[Boy monks]


[Floating market garden]

Paduang Long Necks

Something I wasn’t expecting to see was the Paduang long necks. Our boat stopped off at an ornamental umbrella factory, and next door was a Paduang woman and young girl. The Paduang are a tribe of Myanmar most famous for the woman who wear heavy brass coils around their necks, creating the illusion of an elongated neck.

The two saw us arrive came out and sat on a bench, welcoming photos and people to pose with them. They weren’t asking for donations, and if they were selling anything it was the softest sell I’ve ever seen. I couldn’t see what the catch was, and I didn’t know what to do. It’s a real ethical conundrum (of which is discussed at length at contemporarynomad.com.)

Paduang Long Necks - Inle lake, Myanmar
[Paduang Long Necks]

Jumping Cats

Before heading back for the day we dropped into the Nga Hpe Kyaung Monastery, better known as the jumping cat monastery. How could you not want to go to a monastery named that!

Upon entering the monastery there are cats everywhere, doing what cats do, just lounging around.

Cats at the jumping cat monastery
[Cats being cats at the jumping cat monastery]

Eventually a cat wrangler came out who had a gathering of cats around her (and no doubt some sort of kittie treats in her pocket). The crowd watched on restlessly as she waited for the first cat to jump. No self respecting cat would ever jump through a hoop right on command, but sure enough, the cats really do jump.


[Cats jumping at the Jumping Cat Monastery]

Heading back to Nyaungshwe our boatman stopped the motor and let us enjoy the sun setting over the lake.

Sunset on Inle Lake
[Sunset on Inle Lake]

For more photos visit Inle Lake Photo Gallery

Tea at the spice market, Istanbul – Turkey

Tea at the spice market, Istanbul - Turkey

One of my favourite travel activities is wandering around food markets. I don’t cook, and I wouldn’t know what to do with half the stuff that is sold anyway, yet I still love to see food on display. Neatly stacked food in piles is an artform in itself, and I tend to head to a market over a museum in any new place I visit.

Even though I am a serious coffee fiend, I know better than to be drinking coffee all day. I do enjoy good tea as well, usually in the afternoon after I’ve hit my coffee limit. Seeing this tea on display at the Spice Market in Istanbul made me want to buy a little tea pot and fire up a brew.