Talat Yen Plaza, Savannakhet – Laos

Talat Yen Plaza, Savannakhet - Laos

Talat Yen Plaza, Savannakhet – Laos. This town on the Mekong River was once a French trading port. Few colonial era buildings remain.

Maeklong Market Railway, Thailand – The Train That Goes Through a Market

One of the more interesting train journeys I’ve had is riding through the Maeklong market railway in Thailand.

Train passing through market - Maeklong Thailand

Even if you’ve never heard of the town, you’ve probably seen a youtube video of a train going through a tightly packed market, where market stalls are set up on the rails. The train barely fits through the market, and once the train passes through the market stalls occupy the railway line almost immediately.

I took a day trip from Bangkok out to Maeklong, and sure enough this crazy market wasn’t just a figment of my youtube imagination, it really exists.

I always like walking around markets in Thailand, so to have one with its own railway was an added bonus.

Thai markets are like English TV cooking shows. I never cook, but I love watching those shows. It’s the same with the markets. I’m never going to buy and cook any of this stuff, but I love looking at the piles of sea creatures I hitherto didn’t know exist, and piles of neatly stacked vegetables that I rarely eat.

Train passing over food - Maeklong Thailand

This train has become famous around the world so there were many people in the market taking photos. The market operators seemed to be used to visitors and pointed out a few spots that were best for taking pictures.

Market - Maeklong Thailand

More videos at youtube.com/nomadicnotestv

How To Get To Maeklong

Maeklong is under 70km from Bangkok, but getting the train there will make it feel longer. The journey involves two train trips, punctuated by a ferry ride.

From Bangkok the train departs from Wong Wian Yai. This station is near the King Taksin Statue on the non-touristic side of the river in Thonburi. The nearest BTS Station is Wangwan Yai, which is about 20 minutes walk.

The station itself only has one track that runs along the side of a small street, so it is not an obvious station to find. From here you get the train to the end of the line at Mahachai.

This train takes about an hour. At Mahachai, exit left of the train, then turn right into the market street. It’s a fishing port so you will see seafood everywhere. Walk to the end of the street and on your left you will see the river and the ferry terminal.

You now catch the ferry across the river to Ban Laem. At Ban Laem walk through the market and at the street entrance, turn right. Keeping walking down this street for about 10 minutes and you will get to the station. Once again it is a one track station, so the station is not that obvious. This is the train that will take you to Maeklong.

This train also takes 1 hour, and the trip through the market is right at the end, just before the station. It takes about 2 minutes to get through the market. You should start seeing the outer urban area of Maeklong at about 55 minutes, so that would be the time to get ready if you are going to take photos.

I also noticed that a tour group got on the train at the station before Maeklong. They would have been part of a bus tour going somewhere else, and it would certainly be a less time consuming way to do the trip. I haven’t seen this advertised anywhere though.

Planning Your Trip

There are only 4 trains a day to Maeklong, so you really need to plan your day here. This is the timetable from Ban Laem to Maeklong.

Ban Laem to Maeklong Timetable
From Ban Laem and from Maeklong

If you get the 13.30 train to Maeklong, then you won’t see the train going through the market as you will be back on it as the last train to Bangkok.

The best timing is the following schedule:

8.40 Dep Bangkok Wong Wian Yai
9.30 Arr Mahachai

—Ferry River Crossing—-

10.10 Dep Ban Laem
11.10 Arr Maeklong

At Maeklong the station is at the end of the market. You now have 20 minutes to walk through the market and find a good spot to watch the train come through.

11.30 Train departs Maeklong and goes through the market.

You now have 3 hours in Maeklong until the next train arrives. Seafood is a specialty here, so you could look for a nice seafood lunch. That will take up about 41 minutes. After that there’s not alot else to do in Maeklong, but hey, you are an intrepid traveller, I’m sure you will make your own adventures.

2.30 Train goes through market again, arrives at Maeklong Station.

3.30 Train leaves Maeklong. Last train to Bangkok. Make sure you’re on it.

This schedule will allow you to see the train going in and out of the station, while you are in the market. If you are a professional photographer – or a train spotter – you could get the 7.30 train from Ban Laem, which would give you another two times to see the market run. That would mean a really early start from Bangkok, which is above and beyond the call of duty really.

As you will see from the videos, I was able to film from beside the drivers window when going through the market. The driver and conductor were quite accommodating to passengers who were riding just to see the market. By the way, there were just as many Thai tourists taking photos on the train as there were western tourists, so you wont feel like a total dork.

The train back will get you back to bangkok at around 6pm, making it a full day out day trip.

Reclining Buddha, Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) – Laos

Reclining Buddha, Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) - Laos

Reclining Buddha, Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park), outside of Vientiane – Laos.

Coffee of the day: Pakse – Laos

Sometimes a combination of events will come together to make a really good coffee even better. This was the case in Pakse, Laos.

I had spent 6 hours on a local chicken bus from Vientiane, which was filled to standing room and baking hot. By the time I got to Pakse I was dreaming of an iced coffee. Lucky for me Pakse is home to delta Coffee, which is a cafe that has its own coffee plantation.

Coffee of the day: Pakse – Laos

Patuxay Monument, Vientiane – Laos

Patuxay Monument (Victory Gate), Vientiane – Laos.

Cows on the beach and streets of Palolem, Goa

I have been in India for one week now and I’m still taking photos of every cow that walks by. It’s not like I’ve never seen a cow before, but I’m finding seeing cows walking around in urban areas novel. So until the novelty wears off, here are some cows around the Palolem Beach area.

Cows at shop - Palolem
[Cows at shop - Palolem]

Palolem beach cow
[Palolem beach cow]

Palolem Shop Cow
[Palolem Shop Cow]

Palolem Street Cow
[Palolem Street Cow]

Ornamental Bomb Shells, Phonsavan – Laos

Ornamental Bomb Shells, Phonsavan - Laos

The region around Phonsavan in Laos was one of the most heavily bombed during the secret war. Bomb shells and war scrap can be seen in shops and homes in Phonsavan.

Notes on Vang Vieng: The One with all the Friends Bars

It’s official. I’m old. 38 years old. Ancient really. I was born at a young age, but I’ve got to say that in all of my life I have never been this old before.

I was reflecting on my age while staying in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Vang Vieng is set in an incredibly beautiful location. The river is of the crystal clean mountain variety, and imposing limestone karsts make for an impressive backdrop.

Vang Vieng
Vang Vieng

The town itself feels more like a resort than a town. A backpackers resort. I have heard it be described as Khao San Rd in the jungle (the famous backpacker road in Bangkok). If you had to build a Club Med type place exclusively for backpackers, you would use Vang Vieng as a model. Apart from government administrative buildings it’s hard to find a business here that isn’t given to tourism.

There are bars, restaurants, guest houses, internet cafes, banana pancake street vendors, travel agents and souvenier shops everywhere. There are sports bars playing Australian cricket and English football, serving up Australian steaks and English breakfasts.

Pancakes in Paradise
Pancakes in Paradise

Then there’s the Friends Bars. when I arrived in town one of the first bars I saw had “No Friends” on the front sign. I couldn’t work out why you would sell a bar to someone who has no friends. I soon worked it out after doing a lap of the main street. Every second bar was playing Friends on repeat. It’s a surreal sound hearing Rachel, Monica, Phoebe, Joey, Chandler and Ross, and the sound of canned laughter everywhere you go.

Bars that weren’t playing Friends were playing Family Guy. I haven’t discovered the delights of Family Guy yet, but seeing I like the Simpsons I’m sure I’ll like this show.

Vang Vieng is a base for activities such as kayaking, caving and rock climbing. The number one activity in Vang Vieng by far is tubing. Here you rent out an old tractor tube and then you are driven to a launch spot a few kilometres upstream. The float will take 1 to 3 hours, depending on the season. Being the dry season I got stuck in the river navigators version of the doldrums, and had to paddle my way downstream by hand for a while.

While tubing down a lovely river with stunning scenery is a nice way to spend a day, the real attraction for “tubing in the Vang Vieng” for most people is the bars that line the river. Some bars throw ropes out to you to try and reel you in. Some bars have attractions that are a lure enough in itself, such as mud volleyball, flywires and even a giant slide.

Tubing Slide - Vang Vieng
Tubing Slide – Vang Vieng

Judging by all the “Tubing in the Vang Vieng” T-shirts that you see on sunburnt Scandinavians all over Southeast Asia, Vang Vieng has become one of the premier stop-off points on the banana pancake trail.

Tubing in the Vang Vieng Singlets
Tubing in the Vang Vieng Singlets

If you are a twenty-something backpacker, you will probably love this place. At 38 though I was feeling my age here. I am now twice the age of a 19 year old, which this town had in abundance.

When I was 19 the Seattle grunge scene was the soundtrack to my life. Now I’m meeting kids – adults actually – who haven’t heard of Kurt Cobain. It will only be a matter of time before I meet adults who weren’t born when he was alive.

I turned 38 in Luang Prabang. I had timed my travels to make sure I spend my birthday there rather than in a bus. It turned to be an ideal place to have a birthday. In hindsight I now see that Luang Prabang is a flashpackers paradise, with all those funky cafes and bakeries with wi-fi and trendy villas. And I, for want of a better word, have become a flashpacker.