City of Joyce – Trieste

Trieste is situated in the North East corner of Italy. I knew very little about Trieste, as it seems most people do as well. I did know that James Joyce spent 11 years in exile from Ireland here.

Trieste is a beautiful city with its Adriatic waterfront, grand apartments and commercial buildings and, weather permitting, the Alps as a backdrop. All this and hardly any tourists. If you were to go into exile in a city in Europe, then I can think of no better place – no one would find you here.

Trieste was the principle port for the Habsburg Empire when it controlled these lands. So the city looks Austrian but it feels Italian. Here you find Vienese style cafes alongside Italian pizzarias.

Illy Cafe
[Trieste is home to Illy]

The lack of crowds is more apparent if you have just come from Venice, two hours train ride west of Trieste.

James Joyce
[James Joyce]

James Joyce Hotel
[James Joyce Hotel]

Joyce’s time in Trieste is honoured with a statue and a hotel named after him.